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Enjoy the ride Peter, pretty-much anything is an improvement over stock and I'm sure you'll love it!

Around here debates on suspension usually revolve around one member saying Koni is the only choice and dismissing other products. You will get used to it.

@M3AN i can always get castrol oil at good prices let me know if you need it

Super cheap also has oil on special this weekend. 30% off Castrol. Grabbed some my self.

If its the one I'm thinking of, I know of the guy and pretty sure he works for a mate of mine. He should still have a Tech2 kitted 318i coupe that had a M20b25 in it as well.

If the transmission has enough fluid to engage reverse then it has enough fluid to engage forward gears None of the clutch packs engaged for 4th are used in 1st or 2nd. Clutch pack K1 is used in 3rd and 4th. Band B2 is used in 1,st , 2nd & 3rd Since you have reverse the one way clutch which is used in 1st and rev is OK, so no drive in 1st indicates a problem with B2 since B2 and the one way clutch are used for 1st. You aren't going to get any gears apart from 1st and reverse, unless the valvebody is calibrated to apply 2nd for take off on normal acceleration (some were calibrated this way and only applied 1st on take off when using more throttle) Since you say the oil doesn't smell burnt it doesn't indicate the plates and bands are burnt and worn away, if the trans had been slipping and worn the lining off the plates and bands causing a loss of drive through excessive clearance of the bands and clutches the oil would have a burnt smell. If you install another transmission ensure the modulator is the same colour as the one in the transmission you are removing and put a pressure guage on the transmission and adjust the pressure to the spec of your car. From memory the 722.400 had a green modulator and a pressure setting of 46psi this is measured at 50kph with the vacuum line off. (it would pay to check that to see if my memory is correct, it's been a while since I set one up) Modulator is shift feel (so pressure control) The TV cable is shift timing.

Give this a read https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/139215-bmw-f10-throttle-pedal-reaction-delaylaghesitation/ Or talk to Joe at Eurosurgeon about a remap. Not today though he's out at Hampton Downs

These late model diesels are not wise for school trolleys as they need to be driven . The exhaust particulate filters clog up. Go out and give it a blast on the motorway for 20-30 km at 500 rpm below redline every now and again and watch the smoke. Just drive it in manual to keep those revs up. You can have some fun at the same time if you choose some back roads. Try getting the school chariot drivers to do that ?

New dampers (Koni Sport, adjusted half-turn front and full-soft rear), radius arms (Superpro), bump stops (BMW performance) and rear shock mounts (OEM) now fitted, along with a fresh set of Pilot Sport 4 tyres (36 psi). The car is now settled when driven, and it is quieter and more comfortable than before too. Thank you for all the advice, which has been most helpful.

Seems clear that the fast wagon market will be Alpina only going forward because BMW would rather you purchase this...?

Bunnings sell it. The one I use is waterproof 16mm wide and has a dark green backing tape. It's super strong as well.

Shame they never made an f81, f31 is probably my favourite wagon

Fine! Have done some more driving, on my second tank of fuel now! I'd say while it's clearly faster than my tuned 335i... it does what it does with much less drama. It's quieter, so stable and composed like it's not even bothered when you're flooring it or slamming the brakes. I floored it in a countryside intersection and did a small drift, I was definitely a little sideways but I couldn't even hear any tyre squeal. Perfectly smooth, most mellow feeling drift ever. Maybe the fake interior engine noise was hiding the tyre sound. I guess if I imagine myself driving the 335i hard, making a lot of noise, spinning tyres, slamming the brakes... the M4 would casually keep up without breaking a sweat or making much noise. It's so insulated, you can see why they added the fake engine noise. It's the only way you can tell what the engine is doing unless you have the windows down. At least with the stock exhaust, because it's not that loud. I think I'd want an aftermarket exhaust or downpipes before I disabled that (which I'm not doing any time soon). I also don't get why some people online complain that it's constantly trying to kick the back out. I think these guys just drive with the assist on and assume every time they see the TC light come on it's just stopped them from throwing the tail out. I drive it around in MDM (from what I understand, it means assist only kick in if you go beyond a certain slip angle). Even with foot to the floor on imperfect roads I never had any unintended sliding, just on one slippery wet bit of road it struggled for traction from a standstill. Maybe my opinion on this will change as I get more confident with it, I'm still taking corners very carefully - both because I haven't driven in 6 months thanks to the situation with my old car and I'm still getting used to the M4. Speed builds up both more quickly and smoothly than the tuned 335i, it's even easier to get into loss-of-license territory when overtaking. I performed what felt like a slightly aggressive overtake on a country road of a single car, who was doing 90, and I hit 150kph as I was going past the guy... it barely felt any different to 100kph. Think the same effort in the 335i might have me hitting 130... at least then I might keep my license if I get caught doing it! The HUD is also great, seeing your gear and speed without having to look down is actually super helpful when driving a bit 'spiritedly' on the back roads.