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Auction ended at $1400, which is good, as its what my mental limit was set to and the other guy backed off 1410 and he woulda had em....

Pulled the tardme pin on these, look to have recaro mounting brackets etc from what I could see, dont look too out of place in an E87, plus air lumbar, heating, and ass cooling fans. Oddball JDM recaros, look to be aftermarket only - SP-JC. Cert to install them doesnt look too tricky, removing airbags being the main hurdle. Rest looks fairly legit. The car they are installed in is a bog standard poverty pack prelci 120 wreck.

1990 Baur 325 in Dolphin Grey (as far as I know, the *only* Dolphin Grey Baur in NZ.) For sale is Mrs M's 1990 Baur 325 in Dolphin Grey with black roof. Literally just sailed through another WoF with no advisories. Only being sold because of health issues - Mrs M needs something 'taller' that she doesn't have to climb up out of. The Mercedes 500SL I bought her will also have to go. For anyone unaware, the Baur is one of the rarest E30s and combines the best of the coupe and the convertible. They were built under license from BMW (in Germany and South Africa), initially because BMW didn't have a convertible option available. The roof offers several positions from fully closed to partially open to removed, and the design retains the structural integrity of the coupe. All body panels are in common with the coupe, so no hunting for expensive convertible-specific parts, the rear seat space is retained (it’s significantly reduced in the E30 convertible), and the roof is watertight - we've driven in torrential rain with no issues of any sort. The conversions were expensive. To buy a Baur, you first went to a BMW dealer and bought your E30. The car was then sent from the factory to Baur where it was converted, at significant extra cost. Because of this, many Baurs are fairly low spec and have cloth seats, a heater (no aircon), no OBC, and so on. Our car is very different as it is a high spec car with many options. This car has never wanted for anything in the 4.5 years we've owned it. We flew from Auckland to Dunedin to collect it, driving back to North Waikato. The engine – M20B25 – starts first time, every time and quickly settles initially to a fast idle, then a smooth tickover. It’s one of the quietest and smoothest M20B25s I’ve heard in over 30 years of BMW ownership. Engine bay is really clean. Serviced by me every 4-5000km, and if something stopped working it's been sorted. Odo stopped working, as is common on these, but the gears have now been replaced. The *only* thing I can immediately think of that can be improved is the grey leather interior which at 30 years old is showing signs of it's age. There’s one split in the passenger seat inside bolster, and two splits in the top of the rear seat due to sun damage. We had the driver side seatback outside bolster panel replaced when that had an issue. The carpet on the rear parcel shelf has faded but could be dyed back to original colour. The dash does have cracks which are hidden by a dash mat; we have an uncracked dash that will be offered to the buyer. Everything is original: no mods or swaps (unless you include the towbar or the radio. 🙂 ) So no loud exhaust, no ultralow springs or coilover suspension, no huge rims, no aftermarket bodykit. Body work is very good to excellent. Signs of having been used, but no dents, bends or buckles, and NO RUST. It *has* had some attention to keep it looking good. The Baur roof is watertight and does not leak (unlike many convertibles 😉 ) ad includes the leather cover for when the rear window is folded down. The rear window is clear, uncracked and not faded or obscured. Windows are all etched with the Baur VIN. Options: 13 button OBC full leather interior air conditioning cruise control front foglights electrically adjustable wing mirrors 14" BBS basketweave rims (including spare, with very good, Goodyear tyres - no cheap Chinese rubber) front foglights Recent work completed (in addition to regular servicing, fluids, etc): distributor cap and rotor arm replaced with new parts all 4 shocks were replaced at SuspensionTech (https://www.facebook.com/stech.co.nz) about 2 years ago engine mounts replaced gearbox mounts replaced propshaft 'donut' replaced engine sump gasket replaced rocker cover gasket replaced We took her to Pete at Peak Valet in Havelock North for a professional clean inside and out, and a polish and paint protection. This has revealed some imperfections in the paint, the result of use on Kiwi roads, but also shows how good the bodywork is. Not perfect, but very good. There are spare parts that will be offered to the buyer including a set of used Koni shocks, Kolbenschmidt oil filters, replacement genuine BMW decals for the hub caps, a couple of good tyres, the uncracked dash, a complete pair of electrically adjustable wing mirrors and... I'll have a look. Drives beautifully, turns heads with the roof up or down. Sadly, been used very little in the last few months (most of summer) but always starts first turn of the key. Very happy to answer any questions. Really want this to go to a good home - offers will be considered. Car is in beautiful Hawke's Bay. Come on over, and drive it home. $22,000.

Well this is an awesome combination https://www.trademe.co.nz/3607526890 Side note....anyone want to buy an e30 coupe in project state....

Well... lucky we aren't trying to convert everything f**king thing, ever, to electric....

Couple of months ago a thought i try the 'super sport' mode on the SSG, which is said to be like M3 S3\S4 shifting speeds. Shifted good\hard and managed few shifts before loosing all drive after a shift to 3rd gear. Luckily i was only 1km from home so easy towed. Thought maybe the SAC pressure plate or clutch cylinder had failed somehow as it appeared to still be trying to disengagement the clutch. Upon gearbox removal i found the splined clutch disc center had play and was spinning freely turning into a wheel bearing. Pressure plate appeared fine and id say the gearbox itself is ok but hard to tell with SMG given you can't feel anything. Decided an actual manual conversion is the best way forward. 20220508_115358.mp4 Ended up going via @Vass contact. Cost about the same as his if i didnt mess up the currency conversion. It didnt incl the rear section driveshaft, diff, flywheel\clutch, so not the best deal but not the worst. Fast forward about 6 weeks it turns up but like @Vass experienced with crate damaged, gearbox nearly falling out and missing clutch module and wiring (probably fell out bottom on crate). Disappointing given its easy stuff to package correctly with some effort. Probably wouldn't recommend him to anyone unless you cant find a conversion for 4k (he doesnt ship rear sections of driveshaft now either). He is trustworthy and has good communication but probably better than pay a bit more here unless you can get cheap shipping. The 5 speed SMG even easier than an auto to convert and can be converted back very easy if need be. I dont plan to ever sell the car with what ive spent on it so its probably not really an issue. No wiring will be cut and will have adaptors for clutch module\brake switch side and reverse lights. Some coding just to get rid of the gear cog indicator. Got most of the new bits ready to do the conversion so should have it done in a few weeks once some final parts show up and i order i new module. While i was waiting i put in a new ATE brake booster and rubber hose\pump (small leaks from both) and replaced the master cylinder whilst it was out with a FTE one. Finally found new O2 sensors from Spareto and installed them.

I do actually only use the Bimmergeeks pro tool.

Start with the battery before anything else, low voltage does funny things to many euro cars.

Coffee: The Sunbeam Barista Max EM5300 is legit. I bought one after trying it at my brothers. My inlaws then bought one, my sister in law bought one, her parents bought one, etc. It comes with built in adjustable grinder so you can tune to the batch of beans. Couple it with decent fresh beans and you get coffee that beats 9/10 coffee places. I don't remember the last time I purchased a coffee that tastes better than what this machine can make. There's also some very important, basic, rules to get a decent cup. Fresh beans. Old beans will make flat black coffee with little flavour. Fresh will get you golden and delicious. Right grind. Too coarse and you get weaker, sour coffee. Shop around to find a good bean that suits you. I currently go to Raglan roast as it's local. Allpress ART blend is a good one to try. $488, can be had a tiny bit cheaper if Harvey Norman or someone puts it on super special. https://www.heathcotes.co.nz/products/em5300s-sunbeam-barista-max-espresso-machine-em5300

Choose beans carefully - keep them in the freezer. Grind slowly. I use a hand grinder. Use a stove top coffee pot, a percolator, or a drip system. Enjoy. No need for fancy kit! As for Hazy IPAs... I'm sure they only exist because of poor brewing practice! It's a great way to sell beer which didn't work out as expected.

Fixed.

Nice blue M6 in town today

We just purchased a large covfefe machine for work. Unfortunately the poorly trained barista making my coffees is useless. I will get better I hope.

There’s been a real bad harvest in Brazil I believe, which has pushed the price of beans through the roof as Qube mentioned above. Luckily I’m a Pom and drink tea mostly and whether it’s batch roasted barista or home made Nespresso tastes much the same to me 😳. If it were the price of batch brewed Hazy IPAs going up, then I would be in a whole world of hurt..

Box of goodies arrived from Vink Motorsport for the race car, so that is nice. Also came with the added extras of a bit more enthusiasm and determination to crack on and get it finished.