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Bro’s

Do a M20 swap

haha ill have to strip it first and see if its worth rebuilding, my guess is no, crank is probbly way too cooked. At this stage the plan is to buy a sub 100k kms motor, do rod bearings, baffled sump, all new gaskets and maybe a turbo refresh, and then put it in the car. Yeah from what i can see so far there's no damage to anything, will probably replace oil coolers if i find large amounts of metal in the oil though. In regards to how i afford it, i guess the secret is I live at home still while studying, I barely attend uni lectures and I work one day a week during the semester, and full time every holiday, break etc. Last summer for example I worked for a company doing Louvre roofs. Did that 9hours a day 5 days a week from the day my last exam finished for the year in November until the first day back in February. You'd be surprised how much money you can make even at 25/hr. The other secret is not spending much money on anything else. I made about 800/week and spent 750 on car parts haha.

Here you go. Significantly better and fresher than it was at 95km

No, I didn't. Not sure if you need to? The guide I followed claimed they would fill right up once you go on a proper drive and the oil pressure builds up. Bit of lifter tick at first is normal.

Cant help with what to choose but any model can have electrical problems, some better than others but with modern cars being complex these days its luck of the draw imo. Getting a PPI done on a good example and budgeting for some preventative maintenance is the main thing. Cars you are looking at are 10+ years old so id argue the k's aren't that reliable of an indicator. You can have high running hours, lots of stop\starts and short trips but low millage. The best vehicles ive owned were NZ new ones that were mostly used on long distance highway driving\had higher k's. Heat is the enemy so a cooler engine and less heat cycles goes along way imo. Higher k's have a more likely hood of parts being replaced\service history, although cosmetically generally are worse off to varying degrees.

Not N47 ones but M54 ones, yes. Not sure if they're the same or similar. Just used vise grips to hold the wee bucket and pull it out of the lifter, then disassemble and clean out. Pretty straightforward.

It pays to double check TDC on No1 cylinder using a screw driver down the injector hole. Are the three lines on the cam sprockets facing each other? Its normal for an engine that's been standing for a long time to have low compression, compression soon ramps up again after the engine has run for a short period if all engine components are damage free.

All new suspension, bushings, engine mounts, g/box mounts, shift linkages, RTABS, diff seals, prescribed inspections, valve adjustment etc etc.

I've worked in Auckland and Wellington, and found it can take an hour (sometimes more) to get into work. This is only a little more than that although I'd be driving, not riding a train or similar. And it's likely to be 3-4 days a week, not 5, so there are compensations. Virtually zero corners of significance for 90% of the trip, but a 306D is certainly the 'right' price. I used to drive a 405SRDT - great car.

Well I'm here to test the market for you as I'm in the same boat. Kiwi's love to buy cars based on ODO... Educated purchasers know to look deeper. How many are out there, not sure....

For a long while now my windscreen washer bottle hasn’t wanted to hold much fluid to wash the screen and the headlights. While I don’t use this too often, the frequent "Washer fluid low" messages in the dash were getting frustrating as was the puddle of water in my garage. Removing the wheel liner and topping off the tank to spot leaks I noticed the base of the headlight pump was leaking as the rubber gasket was no longer sealing well enough and the same pump was leaking from where the output hose attached to it. Removing the hose revealed the O ring on the plastic nipple was hard and no longer sealing either. Turning to FCP Euro I ended up getting new pumps, rubber gaskets and grommets for the whole system. This has replaced all the original equipment on the washer bottle to avoid rework in the future. install is a breeze and a good opportunity for a clean-up and flush of the tank. A quick test reveals that there are no longer any leaks and everything is spraying as it should. 👍

"Accelerates, drives and stops as it should" - excellent, PPI done.

I thought I’d keep this for a while, but things have changed. Trademe link let me know any questions etc. $15000