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After taking a brake from the projects for a while and then finishing off the Track Daily, I started back on this ol thing. However with my wedding coming up in 6 weeks, I was forced to slightly alter the project and start again. Not ideal, but it was going to be easier and faster getting the wedding car look I want. I purchased a mint running E28 off trade me, with 22 years of proven service history and mechanical up keep. The body wasn't in great condition in some places due to rust, but that was perfect for me. Drove the car around for a week or two, headed to Hamilton and Themes and was very happy with it, so have decided to keep the 2.5 (2.7) in it for now and run it till it dies, then look at the V8 option again, only this time ill get one out of an E32 or E34. Other V8 is up for sale on trade me now Ive pulled off most of the rusted parts from original car and will just use these rather than re rusting the other parts. Started cutting up the rear quarters to make way for the wide arches to fit the wider wheels. Jacked the wheel hub to get an idea of droppage, still has approx. 30mm to go for full slam. Fronts all welded, painted up and will installed this weekend after ive done the front flaring of the guards Should have a fully slammed and Patina Rusta-Rod before too long

Finally got my E30 going!!!! Thanks heaps to Jon at Auto38 for the ECU, turns out I had most definitely fried mine. Put the new one in and it started immediately. Next step: WoF!

yes using E85 mixed with 98 pump Installed new fuel lines with Ethanol sensor and bluetooth dongle , it send s to an app on my phone showing the E% in my tank

Today I went test driving cars, and I hoped in 2007 120i. As usual, I pushed the seat right back, which seemed a natural fit. There can't of been more than 10 cm between the front of the back and the back of the front. For me, that counts the Bmw out sadly. On a side note we are looking into 2014ish Ford Focus Sport.

Running on itbs. They sound awesome

Saw this gorgeous M5 in the far end of the parking lot in Stanmore Bay today. Is this someone here?

Fair comment. Just bear in mind the VW faults mentioned are well documented, and frequent.

My brother, a vw car salesman on Melbourne suggested that any car, be it vw, Ford or bmw will have some level of failure rate. And as the number of vehicle required produced increase, the number of potential failures, and unhappy reviews, go up too. I guess any car purchased is a calculated risk.

You were warned!Enjoy the Ford!

Unfortunately the day I leave my phone at home (so no photo)... spotted a white i8 travelling south on SH1, heading into the Terrace tunnel. Friggin heck! what a beautiful machine!

s52 is a USA m3 based engine 260hp . based on m50 m52 type engine , cast iron block 3L or 3.2L with the same head and intake and exhaust manifolds as a 328i m52 engine euro m3 engines are s50b30 286hp or s50b32 321hp 2 piece head , high reving engine and 6 throttle bodies and nice headers etc or go the s54 3.2L 343hp newer tech http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/engines/auction-1265899870.htm

Hi there, if my method was correct, the ratio appears to be 3:15, cheers.

Have a 1985 M635csi for sale? Asking $42,000. Some photos attached.

Funny, I always imagined you being much shorter than that.....

I think the rear is more of an issue with the Touring than the front, that is my view having followed the one that races in the BMW Series for a few laps. Not sure if the touring has a rear sway as standard...? I do believe that the sway bar from the sedan / coupe should fit in the touring, so that could be a good place to start. I have seen lots of good reviews on the IE saw bars, but I can't recall any being specifically in a Touring. If they have got a matched F/R pair for the T then that would be a good bet as I would suggest a lot of the benefit is in gettting the balance right between the two ends.

Here is what I wrote on another forum The solution isn't that important to be honest. Here in this instance I used a generic sneaker foam cleaner that you can buy from most shoe stores - these work great at lifting dirt. I've also tried dedicated alcantara cleaners to a self made warm soapy water solution (with real soap flakes) and they all work the same to be honest and give much the same results. It's actually what you use to apply the solution and how you wipe off the dirt that matters and dictate what sort of results you get. I have found tooth brush to be too harsh on the Alcantara ... remember Alcantara is just polyester based fibers, so it is actually quite resilient if you use the right tools to clean it. Treat it like a piece of fabric. The way I do it is to really soak the fabric before I lift the dirt from it. If you rub it dry it will pile. Use a tooth brush and it will pile. Rub in a circular motion it will pile. Do so in straight lines in both directions and it won't pile or knot. The best results I get is actually to use baby wipes ... dried out ones to be exact, and then wet it in the solution you want to apply. Blot onto steering wheel quite a few times till it is reasonably wet, and use another to wipe and rub and take as much dirt as you can out of the Alcantara - Yes I said "rub" .. the baby wipes will pile up before the alcantara will and when it does change it. The key here is to change it as often as you can. In this steering wheel it took me about 10 minutes and about 15 baby wipes to get it to that state. Quite a quick process actually. This method of course doesn't work on all the steering wheels. You have to look at the condition of the fabric. If it's is already piled this method will lift the dirty but you will need to shave the excess piling afterwards to get it looking good again. When Alcantara fibers starts to unravel it's a bit of s slippery slope but with a bit of patience and a good shaver you can get it looking pretty new again. Hope this helps : )