kerrynzl

Haha! The standard sheep answer is "depends on driving style" Fact: nobody "DRIVES" a car at 100% of its handling ability on the road [ they might randomly get close to this with "bravery", then bullshit themselves later ] On the Track in a controlled environment all drivers get close to 100% of their ability, then try and improve from there. Now lets get back to the Camber discussion; The purpose of camber is to have 1/2 a degree neg camber at maximum cornering load [ body roll ] so they usually dial in a bit of static neg to counter-act body roll [ note cantilever tyres require a bit more than 1/2 degree ] Fact: The softer the roll resistance the more static neg is required Fact: The higher the cornering loads the more static neg is required Fact: The higher the Centre of Gravity [ above the roll centre ] the more static neg is required So if you put stiff springs and lower the car and drive it like a 'Nana' you need LESS negative camber. Race cars are always driven hard yet their tyre wear is usually even [ compared to poorly set-up street pretenders ] On Oval track cars where they only turn left , they have positive camber on the left and negative on the right. Having lots of Caster has the same effect [as an oval car] but makes the car heavier to steer If your car is wearing the outside of the tyre with hard springs and lots of negative it has too much Toe-Out [ caused by caster ] Too much Toe-Out also wears the outer tyres heavily on cars with lots of caster [ both wheels end up with induced positive camber ] Negative Camber doesn't cause understeer, it is used to dial out understeer [ too much Front weight bias and/or too much Front roll resistance is the main cause of understeer ] Race cars use Camber plates along with different springs to dial in the settings to the conditions [ they set the camber by tyre temperature ] For a street car, I would go with the M3 set-up [ it's good enough for some basic track usage as is ] I doubt if any street cowboys would actually NEED anything better [ unless they want to show off their shiny bling parts, trying to impress the ignorant masses ] We can all defend our ego's here .

I keep slamming it and it bounces open. I tried a screwdriver on the latch but it's not clicking to the shut position. I've now pulled the whole unit out, but it's rivoted together. "sh*t I wish my car had this fault just before my divorce"

The passengers door on my E36 coupe won't stay shut [ almost as if the door handle was held open] everything else seems to be OK, the window bumps, central lock etc. Just the catch won't click and stay locked I pulled the whole unit, but it's all rivoted and sealed . Is this a common problem on a E36 door, and does it have a simple fix [ otherwise I'll replace the whole unit with one from the wreckers ]

Tell him , "if he wants to 'Compress' the springs, he can hire a spring compressor for about $15.00 [ re setting them is a lot harder ]

Shelley, Copywright laws are quite "cut and dry" in the western world.[ even China recognises it ] click onto wikipedia for a simple explanation. A patent usually lasts about 21 years but a copywright can be up to 60 years past your death. All you need to do is prove that it is your intellectual property [ it does not need to be registered ] then you need to put a value on the loss [ or compensation ] that you seek If you submitted a proposal and a quote, that is enough. Send an account to the company or individual that used it , when they refuse to pay you then have a dispute. Use the disputes tribunal up to about $8K [ only for disputes , not debt collection ] My experience with the disputes tribunal is that people are gutless and usually hide behind "companies" Take an individual to the disputes tribunal not the company [ individuals commit crimes based on their decisions not companies ] No lawyers are allowed for either party

I normally just put the phone down and leave them talking [ I ain't paying for the call from India ]

Yeah!! while we're bragging, last months Classic Car (July) Has an immaculate green '69 Z28 Camaro on the cover and as the feature car. This little gem is parked in my garage [ she's open to offers tho ]

Ring STA (09) 2561120 They had some LHD headers in stock [ going cheap but need a cut'n'shut ] or they can get the correct fit for you

For a track day a cheap FFM helmet is great [ they're NZ made and pass MANZ specs ] unfortunately they don't have the "wank" factor of a fashion brand Helmets are only good for 10years so a new one is better than a used "brand" label spend the money you save on a good set of race pads [ carbon metallic 90's from "Les Hunter" in Chch ] but don't use them on the street [ they're easy to swap in and out ] When you become totally addicted [ heaven forbid ] get a spare set of wheels with track tyres [ like the pads they're easy to swap after the meeting ] Also add an extra litre of oil to the engine HAVE FUN

[ controversial answer, haha! ] Most people that drive with their fogs on are that f**ken blind they usually have their noses glued to the windscreen [ they are usually the biggest tailgaters too ] Fogs only operate on low beam so they annoy the car they are tailgating because they think they're being courteous while driving on low beam They are all wankers. The cops shouldn't ticket them, they should suspend their licenses until they get their eyes checked

It doesn't!! Anyone speeding in Urban areas needs to have a sharp eye. A police radar isn't the only hazzard out there.

A modern parable -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There has been a joke email floating around Here it is: A Japanese company (Toyota) and an American company (GM) decided to have a canoe race on the Missouri River. Both teams practiced long and hard to reach their peak performance before the race. On the big day, the Japanese won by a mile. The Americans, very discouraged and depressed, decided to investigate the reason for the crushing defeat. A management team made up of senior management was formed to investigate and recommend appropriate action. Their conclusion was the Japanese had 8 people rowing and 1 person steering, while the American team had 8 people steering and 1 person rowing. Feeling a deeper study was in order, American management hired a consulting company and paid them a large amount of money for a second opinion. They advised, of course, that too many people were steering the boat, while not enough people were rowing. Not sure of how to utilize that information, but wanting to prevent another loss to the Japanese, the rowing team's management structure was totally reorganized to 4 steering supervisors, 3 area steering superintendents, and 1 assistant superintendent steering manager. They also implemented a new performance system that would give the 1 person rowing the boat greater incentive to work harder. It was called the 'Rowing Team Quality First Program,' with meetings, dinners, and free pens for the rower. There was discussion of getting new paddles, canoes, and other equipment, extra vacation days for practices and bonuses. The next year the Japanese won by two miles. Humiliated, the American management laid off the rower for poor performance, halted development of a new canoe, sold the paddles, and canceled all capital investments for new equipment. The money saved was distributed to the Senior Executives as bonuses and the next year's racing team was out-sourced to India. The End

You'd be better off with balls of aluminium foil in your hubcaps "Then you could plead insanity for your defence"

The best is getting your eyesight checked and learn to read the roads correctly. [ The Road-Nazis need to find suitable places to hide ] This method has worked for me for many years If you must use electronic weaponry try this http://www.radarjammers.com/ On a jap import , power it up from a relay via the speed warning alarm [ that way their radar gets a reading when you are below 100k's ]

Haha! This should be a warning for all those who play their sound system too loud

The best system is a set of 180 degree headers and dual exhausts [ click here ] http://media.photobucket.com/image/180%20d...egreeMedium.jpg But this system is not practical at all I would run 1 equalizer with dual exhausts [ in front of any crossover pipes ] Nascar and V8 supercars use dual exhausts with a gas equalizer [ click here ] http://store.summitracing.com/largeimage.a...hed-18814_w.jpg This was supposed to been invented by some Yank in the 80's [ patent pending still ] and sold as the "Dr Gas Exhaust Equalizer" but I have seen 3 on an early Mercedes V8 SEL [cunning Germans stealing American technology 15 years earlier ] The reason these work is because a V8 engine uses a 90 degree crank to smooth out mid range vibrations, Unfortunately the firing order of a 90 degree crank requires 2 adjacent cylinders on each bank to fire in sequence causing a pressure imbalance which the crossover pipe equalizes over to the other side [ during the remaining 4 cylinders firing sequence, the pressures from each bank cancel each other out at the equalizer ] Its all about the laws of diminishing returns [ aka : Can I justify the money spent ]

Over the last 15 years David Bain's life has been a pawn in a game of "Winners and Losers" with our judicial system. The average 'bush lawyer' has an opinion based on distorted facts, I hear people say "I think he's guilty / innocent" everyday. The real guilty party here is the legal system , which has become a game of "winners and losers" A prosecutor will withhold certain relevant facts or present them out of context to distort the truth, just to 'win' the trial. [ defence lawyers are just as guilty of these practices also.] Whether David Bain killed his family or not, he should have never been convicted of murder based on the incompetent evidence and distorted bullsh*t from the prosecutor. A killer isn't the same as a murderer [ a murderer needs to be convicted ] As the famous 'Chopper Reid' once quoted , "Never let the truth get in the way of a good yarn"

Correct!! It's as I mentioned on page 2 of this thread. I watched the "Sunday" program last night about boy racers, it reminded me of the late 70's with 327 Victors & V8 Mk IV Zodiacs doing burnouts in industrial areas [ Beaumont st, Auck ] [ & they used diesel on the roads back then ] One thing I noticed that was consistent with the 70's and Now is the trouble makers were always driving a piece of sh*t [ showing off their manhood , trying to be "badass" etc ] Old Nissan Cefiro's are the MkIII Zephyr of the 21st Century [ crushing these won't acheive anything ] The people with the good cars usually had a bit of pride and self respect [ and nothing to prove ] but also always got persecuted by the law because the cars attracted this attention. We don't need laws that restrict freedoms, this just adds to the "outlaw" excitement [ which is very alluring ] What we need is laws that encourage social responsibility Getting the Finance & Insurance Companies on side is a step in the "right direction" Now all we need is to work on the parents [ We might need to repeal the "anti-smacking bill" for this one. Haha! ]

Only the rear wheel arches? If anybody knows anything about springs they'll understand that a spring NEVER loses its rating or stiffness. Over a period of time [ spring cycles ] a spring loses its "setting" or height. There is no offence as far as I know for driving a vehicle with sagging springs [ or driving with bags of ballast in the boot etc ] If your springs are uncut and have standard part number springs , I would defend this [ because of high km's caused the springs to sag ] Use the sarcastic defence notion of being "prosecuted" because of the weight in the boot. [ you can calculate the Kg's needed for this ] To anyone who wants to lower their car I have always been in favour of resetting stock springs [ never cutting them ] firstly the ride quality is the same as stock. When a spring gets re-set by a springmaker the temperature is at such a low temperature and usually the original paint is intact. to me this is a prefered option to requiring an ugly tag being rivoted to my car

Haha! I was waiting for this one. John Rae got caught 'red-handed' doing a skid in a Mercedes at Ohaupo F**k did he spit tacks when they impounded his car He then got on TV and tried pulling the "I'm not a Boy-Racer, I'm a respectable businessman bullsh*t" If you must do skids, don't get caught. If you do get caught, be responsible for your own actions [ don't blame others ]

At 6000 RPM with a 24-1/2inch diameter tyre [620mm] and a 3.14:1 overall ratio [ 1:1 5th ] = 139 mph [ 223 k's ] Thats a good "Puke" ratio 6000 RPM is a hard ask in top [ it should go easily to 7000 RPM thru the gears ] Quote [ of the week ] " Keep it near the limiter when shifting, that way you can't over-rev it if you miss a gear "

Why would spend more on rear tyres if it is hooking up better , you wear tyres out more with the lack of traction [ ask the Drift boys about tyre wear ] If your car does better lap times the tyre wear will also increase A detroit locker is a Ford patended component , I only used it as a comparison where you can actually "hear" it working a detroit locker is also a good example of a diff that locks 100% [ like a welded rear ] but is open on over-run Please don't take my comment about drifting as offending, this discussion is all about getting more traction and speed. If I was to build a drift car I would lock the rear and set the suspension so the car is loose on corner entry [ it is a different game ] Yes this does still apply to Independent suspension [ IRS has the added bonus of allignment adjustments ] semi trailing arms can sometimes be worse than a live axle The [ simplified ] secret to oversteer / understeer is tuning the "roll couple" [ the ratio between front and rear roll stiffness ] for example: a car could have a static weight of 60% on the rear wheels, but during cornering weight transfer [ bodyroll ] transmit 60% weight to the outside front because the front is stiffer and the chassis doesn't twist so it supports more weight The laws of inertia are that the heaviest end [ at the tyre contact patch ] wants to keep travelling in a straight line. In this example the heaviest end is the front [ during bodyroll ] even though it weighs more on the rear on the scales If you dialed in the springs correctly using either maths or "applied research" [ try it and see ] you would never know your car is locked except for corner exit speed and driving around in the pits Hey Cam! Torsens are better with rough driving but you will still get 30% slippage [ they are mechanically impossible to lock up ] Torsens are very simple to understand, they sense torque from the road so you can "turn in" under full throttle if you need to. Detroits and Clutch LSD's sense torque from the 'engine'

Firstly, Don't crush the cars . De-register them and let the "free-market" [ Auto dismantlers ] sort them out.As long as the rightful owner aka Finance or Rental Co is protected. Nothing punishes a person more than letting somebody else profiteer from his / her stupidity [ let the vultures win occasionally ] I am Dead against raising the driving age [ it is a breech against the civil rights of responsible young drivers who are punished because of the irresponsible actions of others ] THE DRIVING AGE SHOULD BE LOWERED TO 14, but there is a catch to this! Raise the age of car ownership to 18 years so a driver should get 4 years of 'supervised' driving before he / she is unleashed in a GSR Skyline [ imagine it the other way round , leaving skool at 16 and saving for a GTR for your 18th birthday ] Now our whole society needs tough laws on social responsibility, The registered owner of the car [ who's over 18 ] is 100% responsible for anybody between 14-18 [ lets make this everybody ] who commits an offence in their car. Imagine Mum or Dad getting fined or demerit points [ suspended license etc ] because their little sh*ts driving offences. It might not be fair in some cases, but it will get more people [ parents ] helping enforce the law through controlling usage

The answer here is a YES! The Torsen Gleesen [ from TORque SENsing ] , And the crude ratchet "Detroit Locker" both unlock when the vehicle is in "over-run" The Torsen doesn't technically lock or unlock and can't get more than 70% lockup. Torsens are also expensive $$$ The Detroit and the Locked rear are the only ones that get 100% lock up. Any clutch type LSD requires a lot of pre-load on the clutches to work properly [ on a race car this pre-load can be so great that you are better off locking it completely ] I have driven many cars with a Detroit Locker [ they make a noisy clunk when they lock ] but with a good handling car on the track they are silent! Why? Because the "slip angle" of the tyres is greater than the differential between the inside and outside tyres. On a bad handling car a detroit is noisy because it is "clunking in and out"all the time trying to recover lost traction With a good budget I would go with the Torsen, but set the car up as if it didn't need it. I am talking "Circuit Racing" here ! .......Drifting isn't racing [ it's entertaining though! ]

WHAAT!!!! When did they wanna do this??? If they ever get their way we can always seek revenge by Racing Chainsaws and cut down all the trees.