kerrynzl

There are 2 sorts of camber: Static camber= when the venicle is stationary [ eg:allignment machine ] and dynamic camber= induced camber [ eg: thru suspension travel ] have a look at an indycar from the front, the upper wishbones point down in the middle of the car [ not parallel to the lowers ] They run minimal camber to reduce drag, but under hard braking the geometry induces more negative. A lowered Mac/strut, or even worse , a semi trailing arm [ E30 ] that has been lowered does the same. all suspension has a "operating range" that the geometry is working within. when a car is lowered, it is at the end of this operating range so a bit of suspension movement can aggravate the problem. All this is academic, I am assuming NZ Pom's suspension is in good condition. My E36 was bad for tramlining because the Wheel allignment was set up for M spec [ sport settings ], I got my allignment guy to run less negative because I'm running 225's [ it cured the problem ] I don't need race car settings in my daily driver. [ I drive near the speed limit, not the rev limit Haha!] E36's get most of their bump steer in the rear suspension, so if your allignment guy wont do the rear, go elsewhere.

Hey Mate, no offence intended. my words originally were a "decent" wheel allignment. 90% of the time, the salesman has more skills than the schoolkid doin' the allignment. There are some really talented allignment guys out there , that can sort out your problems when you go outside manufacturers specs [ lowering , widening etc ] try and use one of these guys. my comments about race cars, is because 1/2 the idiots out there try and use race car settings on a street car [ great for creating excess tyre wear ] I know some decent allignment guys in the Tauranga area only

Before you do anything, Pull the belt out to full extension and clean it with soap and water [ multi purpose cleaner ] over the years, oils from "human contact" get on the belt and act like a brake. I owned a Car dealership years ago [ the only honest one, Haha! ] , this saved me thousands $$$$

Like Motor Racing. if you wanna make a small fortune out of shares , "start with a large one" Haha! Seriously though, get somebody to teach you to read a balance sheet [ if you don't already know ] then you can figure out the true intrinsic value of the shares [ asset, debt, equity ratios ] The share is valued by one of three things. Asset value [ equity ], Performance yeild , and Market sentiment [ the dangerous part ] Share dealers use the first two, speculators the last. [ property, in our current climate is similar ] Try and Hunt down a Book called " The Zurich Axioms" by max gunther . this book will teach you the psychology of a successful investor [ speculator ] I have used this book successfully in other areas as well [ car dealing, property etc ] It is well worth it, and the Best advice I can give you [ you won't regret it ]

It was against the rules of the stock exchange.There was no provisions for selling short back then We had ways to get around it though. Basically we just sold scrip that we never owed, the brokers would carry us for 30 days [ then we would buy them back cancelling out the first order ] This wasn't margin trading, it was 100% leverage, praying for a bear market [ don't squeeze the bears , they bite ]

Are you refering to buying shares in a listed Mining Co on the ASX. or Buying and Selling commodities contracts. I worked as a 'Broker' back in 1987 when the NZ stock exchange was considered the "wild west" of the financial world. Back then "insider trading" was considered "smart business acumen", but "shorting" the market was illegal

Haha! He's probably never heard of [ or had ] a decent wheel allignment. running wide[ish] tyres for the rims is good for cornering loads. but the footprint is susceptible to undulating surfaces [ "tramlining" ] less negative camber is required . A race car in a straight line [ at slow speeds ] is terrible Interesting comment about "triangle" tyres in the wet. on the track we usually mount directional tyres backwards on the front [ the forces are opposite ] With a V tread pattern this will help in the wet under braking. "Try locking up a Tractor going downhill, and you'll understand the concept "

Doing 'donuts' is what f**ks them! The heat generated in the spider gears causes stress cracks when they cool down. The next day they usually break when you 'pussyfoot' out of your drive. I blew 7 Borg Warner diffs after "driving" around in circles in my R/T Charger on various street events. [ displaying my skills to my friends ] the same B/W diff is used by NZ V8's and they dont cause any problems. pm me and I'll give you a contact with a E36 manual medium case / axles / rear driveshaft

Try Mac's Mufflers on Aerodrome Rd, If he can't get them , He'll make em

Hahaha! Look at the Bullshit Dyno sheet, Probably did it with a "Desktop Dyno" A bit of education here for you boys. A Dyno can only measure torque , then it mathematically converts to Horsepower [ or KW ] The formula is ; Torque x RPM / 5252 = HP So at 5252 RPM Torque and horspower equalize each other [ KW or HP , it doesn't matter ] Look at his charts again. [ this is an easy way to pick bullshit dyno figures ]

Nah! When I get caught sleeping with one of her friends

Thats a Deal Mate! She was halfway there with all that girlie crap hanging off the mirror etc. You can also custom paint it for me with a Spray Bomb

Go with option 3, but don't do it half assed. You have to add to it : Fluffy Dice , A Welded Chain Steering Wheel, and a Skull Gearshift Knob!! A good Autometer Tach costs about $500 S/H to $1000 New [ I bey you can get the stock tach working for less than that. Start Drinking with an Autosparky, and get help from this forum

My Original quote to Jacob [ leave them alone ] For occasional track use, throw in a set of "Carbon Metallic 90's", take em out after the meeting & drive home. For Hillclimbs & Bent-sprints leave them standard [ Race brakes need to be hot to work properly ] In my Mk1 Cortina I had stock brakes with C/M 90's I could do a 16 lap race without fade. My Sentra GT cup car had stock brakes with [ unknown ] Race Pads Removing weight & better tyres will get better braking performance on the street. Improve your driving skills! If you can "trail brake" at the limit of adhesion, or pulse brake [ poor man's ABS ] then your driving skills may need better brakes [ but not for the street ]

3 pedals is correct, the M3 needs a M/C bore increase to 25.4mm [1inch] from 23.81mm because of the increase in piston area of the M3 calipers [ this will also lower rear caliper pressure ] E36 M3's have a 323mm front disc up from 286mm stock E36's The set up I am considering is a complete brake conversion [ front & rear ] from a E46 330 which is 325mm discs and a 54mm piston caliper [ same as E36 ] the E46 330 uses a 23.81mm M/C which is identical to the E36 M/C bore this swap is so simple that Americans are capable of doing it

Hey mate , race gas is already $2.50 litre. [ I get 1 km per litre @ WOT ] we'll still buy the sh*t at $10.00 a litre

Hey Jacob, If this is your daily driver? Leave your brakes Stock and get a spare set of pads for the Track [ I would reccomend "Carbon Mettalic 90" compound by "Performance friction" in the USA for track use ] Unplug your ABS and you'll realize that the stock brakes can "lock up" a road tyre, so they are very capable If you insist on modifying your brakes, try and get a set of M3 callipers and Discs [ same pad situation again ] If you want to spend a couple of weeks learning your maths, then maybe you can look at aftermarket combo's which will end up being similar to stock M3's anyway[ but shiny and pretty ] I have yet to meet a parts guy [ or Brake Guy ] that knows their Maths here! they all use "applied research and development" [ translated: "let's try it and see" ]

Hey I found her on Youtube! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2Kc4_mAkgQ No wonder us "Good ol' boys" down south can't get "classy" wimmen! $4100.00 She'd have to be a 1st class mattress thrasher for that. Whats wrong with the old method of fillin' dem up with alcohol and a Big Mac if you want to "wine them, dine them, and 69 them"

Give me a call,and I'll help negotiate for you [ after 4.30 pm ]

Finally, A common sense answer from a supportive member. While you're here Cain. How do I find out if Will's 327Eta has a Rev Limiter? Which pedal do I stomp? Can I find out if it has a Limiter and a LSD at the same time?

Wanted: a Six pin Air Flow Meter to suit a M50B25 [ thats a 2.5 Non- Vanos ] with a Bosch DME also a Bosch O2 sensor as well Email me at sashdish@xtra.co.nz Thanks Kerry

Thanks Glenn, I can't believe the Torgue on the front Bolt. It's a pity I can't get that same rating out of the back of the crank , haha! Again, much appreciated Kerry

You can't flood the engine if it isn't going [ It has injectors not carbs ]

Does anyone know the Torque Settings of the Main Caps, Conrods, Front Crankshaft Bolt for a M50 / M52 Engine I've had others looking for me Apparently the Bentley doesn't have these settings [ they don't wanna be sued by some incompetent yank ] Its the hold up on my Stroker Engine right now What's the hot set up for installing "rings"? Do I use oil , CRC , or install dry in the ring compressor? Every engine "Guru" tells me different