*Glenn*

Funny that....no replies yet Ollie

The saga continues....next installment coming up shortly.... I just got a phone call

No thats not right. If it has pre cat & after cat oxygen sensors they evaluate the emmission difference and trim the fuel mixture through the DME. They also determine cat effectiveness, which will indicate a different fault code. How these 2 oxygen sensors work for any particular car is dependant on software, its not a general rule of thumb. Most modern systems now use these 2 sensors to trim fuel. If you remove the cat it will run lean and cause engine damage. Are you sure your car has this system ?... if it only has a pre cat oxygen sensor and a cat overheat sensor your OK. Whats the chassis # of your car ? Edit: Oxygen sensors will be 4 or 5 wire on your car. Cat overheat sensors are 2 wire

I have an idea for you Ollie Charge $50 for Bimmersport membership.... that would finance a relitively new X5

WARNING If you car has pre cat and after cat oxygen sensors YOU CANNOT REMOVE THE CAT

I'd get it sorted real quick...going to be expensive though.... but then...so is a new motor. Some exhaust repairers destroyed a Audi A8 by removing the cats over in Henderson. Took the owner one week of driving to destroy it.

8,000 km per year is standard.. they will increase it to 10,000 km for a few more $$$ 10,000km is the max though

I'm going to have the same problem as well....I tried Classic.. but I do higher mileage than they allow.

If it has no cat & no sensor it will automatically store a fault code. If you retro fit a genuine sensor in the exhaust line and plug it in it should be fine. UNLESS it has pre cat & after cat oxy sensors....then a cat MUST be fitted back into the exhaust system or you could end up damaging the engine... it will run too lean.

You should be able to fit a cat overheat sensor into the exhaust, plug it in and the light should go off. Just fit it in the about the same position it was fitted when it had a cat

+1 for Best Bars.. they will do the towbar and the wiring. They make the tow bars for BMW NZ

Get it scanned first and get them to check live data readings while driving the car. Air mass Kg readings should be around 20kg @ idle and under full load it should increase rapidly up to 600-700kg with a V8 engine If there are oxygen sensor limit fault codes, they will be they result of another problem ie: air leaks from manifold or crankcase ventilator valve

Good thing for you it was the Catalytic converter and not the Torque converter Hope they took the cat out and fitted a dog

Woolf Mufflers Ph. (09)6300690

Just bridge the cat overheat sensor wires...it'll be fine on your model car.

It'll keep

Bren gun carriers ??? I'm not friggen 95 yet APC's & 50 calliber... M41's & phosporous shells ..... and armalites... SLR's and AK47's

Honestly... I think you'll be disapointed Ollie Edit: Take the race car on the trailer with you and try it

^^^^^^ Thats very true....horses for coarses I've had a Nissan Patrol.... Pathfinder and now an Xtrail... the Xtrail was purchased for the reason of towing a light trailer and eventually a 18' alloy boat to go fishing...it serves its purpose for the intended use. Edit: I would not tow a race car around with it

The tracks are not the same as a bulldozer. I drove APC's in the army (tank commander) they dont damage tarseal roads. They have rubberised inserts to prevent this happening. I'd luv to buy my old APC... it was 98A in the NZ armoured squadron

Swap 2 of the switches and see if it works. If not..its the window motor

Or realy lash out and buy the Lexus V8 version

Fail its got to be the Prado Ollie...much more reliable and cheaper to maintain

I dont like the semi logic built in service intervals... I would suggest every 15,000km or every year

Bighorns are not as easy to work on and the cost of spare parts is much higher. The Prado's are more reliable as well I wouldnt go anywhere near a Landrover or Rangerover.... you'll be broke in 12 months