*Glenn*

Before you do anything.....give me a call Ph. 2722546

Have a great day From Glenn and the Team

That was the wrong page Dave... 2 pages to the right on ETK The flat alloy spacer without the groove goes on first, then the circlip. The shaft is spring loaded, so you will need to pull the shaft up against the spring. The best way is to get someone to help you. Use the steering wheel bolt in the shaft through a ring spanner to give you something to pull on. Pull the shaft up, then slide the circlip into position. Then fit the grooved spacer over the circlip with the groove fitting over the circlip. If you cant understand what I mean...give me a call BTW... when the key first gave you the problem (spinning in the lock) it would have been an easy fix. We do them for $120 Edit: I hope you centralized the steering wheel before you pulled it apart with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. If you have moved it, you run the risk of damaging the squib ring (clock spring) for the airbag. If you havent moved the car or released the squib ring lock in the wheel you should be ok.

It should be about 40 milliamps. However most multimeters wont go from amps to milliamps without switching , which will take the ECE's back out of sleep mode. You need to use 2 meters and wait at least half an hour for the ECU's to shut down to check it. Use the two meters in paralell. Have one on amps and when it drops switch the 2nd one to milliamps and disconnect the first without breaking the circuit. Or use GT1

The pushrod or the support linkage ??

Instead of For Sale... why not For Hire ???

Doing it once & doing it properly = less heartache & $$$

How old is the battery ? Is it the correct battery ? Should be a calcium Din 65 or 85 Check battery charge rate as well Do all your fan speeds settings on the heater work...fan speed resistor blocks can discharge batteries when they are faulty. There is a procedure for checking battery discharge that can be quite complicated without the right gear. You need either GT1 or 2 multimeters to do this.

I'm going to order one for myself tomorrow. If anyone else wants one...let me know berfore 10.00 They are $157 + GST retail. I'm only getting 10% off they are X Germany I might get a better deal if I order a few

How come your selling Peter?? Whats the plan ??

How much do you need ?? I can give you some tomorrow if you want

I gather from this that it was the hubcentric rings missing ? Great to see its sorted now for you

It goes into the recess where your pens are and is held in with 2 pk screws

My christmass hours are from Tuesday the 23rd-5th Jan AND I WONT BE HERE OR HAVE MY PHONE ON BTW: Sorry we dont work saturdays

I'd need to check whats wrong first

I've seen this ??? hanging around Papakura

Here we go.....another wind up

Its here at work at the moment (i'm looking after it) We will be putting it up for sale in the New Year Brad

That was really nice of him. Not many people would do that. Its amazing how peoples attitudes change towards there fellow human beings when they are faced with the reality of life & death. Pity we cant all be like that all the time. BTW: Very nice car. I've not seen it though

Yes it should. To be absolutely sure...give us a pic of your centre console...it fits mine & Brian's

I agree with Gus. You are only draining the oil from the intercooler. I would be more concerned about the specs by the turbo manufacturer. It could effect bearing lubrication and turbo performance. Turbo drains are very critical in design on turbos.... No acute bends in pipe work, no restrictions, continuous diameter, entry into sump above oil level height and preferably shielded inside the sump to prevent the crankshaft throwing oil back up the drain tube

If it was checked properly it should be able to be diagnosed. If there are no fault codes, its likely to be the air mass sensor. You need to drive it with the scanner hooked up and check live data. Another possibility would be the crankcase ventilator valve or breather hose from the same valve.

If its your E36 it will be an idler or tensioner bearing making the noise...... and they do fall off And you cant tighten the tensioner...its self loading, unless you have the wrong size belt on

Are you running singlex or duplex chain ? If its only singlex do the conversion

Oops forgot about the early model motors. Just get an engineer to slot it for you in a mill