hotwire

^^^ Remember - some intank pumps are just low pressure lift pumps (fitted along with usual external high), others are straight high pressure pumps.

Too much time on your hands Kerry. Didn't you you know - your'e sposed to dismantle cars to sell the parts... not fit them to your own

A litlle yes...on the straights, but we are all racing the same so it is very close racing. Also, they brake & go around corners as quick as anything else

Thought you were making it into a series car?

M52B25 is 2.5l Badged as 523i as Euro spec E39 & 525i in Jap spec, respective for E46. I think Brians car (if original engine) will be a M50B25. The M52B28 came out in 1996 replacing the 2.5 engine... as I understand it.

5 min job... two allan head bolts going up through the front rail irons

HB Kayne, have a good one

Fair call

Greg - help family into a REAL car

Interestimg Dave - I would have thought it to be a no go to try to use factory analogue antennas to operate the DVB-T tuner.

^^^^^ Yep. My guess in this case (from your description) is the drivers door lock barrel assy. As Glenn says - a very common occurence in the E46

Just being a smart arse Greg. I would expect yours would have been darker in the flesh & probably just looking lighter due to photo differences between the two. That said - Red & Yellow are the two worst colours for fading in our sun apparently.

Na Greg... yours just faded Great looking car - well done!

Apparently you can get the sealer from the dealers for a quite reasonable price

The Dynavin plugs into OEM radio plug which for a non monitor car is in the front - so plug play (not that I have fitted one) The radio tuner is in the rear in a monitor equipped car so the Dynavin needs the full loom to run to the rear to pick up the factory radio loom plug in the car - yes you disconnect the current tuner. Surely there must be a retrofit loom available with the Dynavin units for this application? Not that I would personally want to remove an OEM system to retrofit a Dynavin. That said - a great bang for buck addition for non monitor vehicles.

Stand corrected then Dave. As I said - I haven't traced it in the Touring - have had no need to, just need to have an extension made to connect to the Euro nav in the rear corner. Guess that means it can be retreated to the front to connect to Dynavin then. BTW - your addition sounds interesting

The unit on the windscreen is NOT the GPS antenna. It will be the Japan toll transmitter unit. The GPS aerial will be in the rear somewhere (not sure on the Touring as I haven't traced but in the sedan is located under the rear shelf trim) The GPS receiver box under the floor is the Jap unit (the GPS aerial plugs into it) The Euro spec nav unit has a built receiver so doesn't use this & it can be removed when doing a Jap - Euro conversion. So yes - just remove it. I guess you could get an extention lead made & connect the GPS aerial in the rear to the Dynavin. Yes you will need the loom to go from front to rear. The fact you have a monitor puts the radio tuner in the left rear corner. This is where the Dynavin connects to.

1990 is a facelift car. Being auto it would have had, & still probably has, a 4.45 diff which as mentioned earlier, the engine will be doing about 3k @ 100kph. The cluster currently in the car (as mentioned) looks to be a pre f/l unit, having a different fuel gauge setup & also shows a smaller tank capacity to that of the facelift car. Hence incorrect operation. The second dipstick will be ATF (at the rear of the engine) As you suggested - yes will be better to get your original cluster repaired.

Yea it will. Robinson Instrument Services in Auckland can do. Again, to confirm variables - what year is the car?

Happy Bday Brent. Will catch up again sometime no doubt

^^^^^^ Yep was just going to say that. The little white plastic rectangular box. They can be swapped, assuming your original dash has the same setup (pre 86 did not have the programming chip) - hense me asking earlier what year your car is?? You still face the fuel gauge issue though, pre & F/L cars had different fuel tanks & also different gauge sender setups - hense maybe a miss match. Motometer to VDO makes no difference but models do

1000rpm at idle doesn't really add up to 4500 at 100kmh though. What year is the car - pre or F/L?

I have only bought in complete "good" cars in that have been registered here. I do know of cars that have been bought in specifically for parts (damaged & complete) with no issues. Bear in mind that non drivable cars are costlier to ship + you will still be up for all the usual import duty costs this end.

Are you sure the tacho is reading correctly? What does it idle at? It can't rev more than the race series cars - they rev to the factory limit

Whats this vice on the computer desk thing Josh