will

got LSD?

I suppose you will be wanting to borrow my fun diesel-powered toy then..? BTW, this will be available to anyone up here for the northland meet wanting to blast their pride & joy clean.. Will

same car..

hey Kerry havn't figured where the pile of brown bottles next to the car goes either..??? Will

This conversion has involved removing numerous brackets from the lhs and donor car and replacing them on the rhs. I thought I would show how to remove them easily without significantly damaging either the bracket or the body it is attached to. (this can be used to remove body panels as well, the principle is the same..) Brackets are normally spot-welded to the body, the easy way to remove them is to drill the weld so it is easy to remove. Below is a pic showing the bracket I am removing for this conversion, it supports the bracket that mounts the brake booster. The spot welds are circled, most spot welds are visible like this (small dents in the surface). If you cant see them, scrape the paint off and they will normally appear. Once you have located them, use a centre-punch and punch roughly the centre of the spot-weld. see pic, spot-welds circled. The weld normally anneals (hardens) the metal, so I normally pilot drill the weld first with a small drill bit as a large one will battle to get traction. (You need to use a (final) bit that is roughly the same size as the spot-weld, I use one that is marginally smaller so as to minimise the damage). Pilot holes arrowed.. Then drill them with the bit roughly the same size as the weld.. Use a fine-pointed chisel, screwdriver and hammer gently between the bracket and the body near the welds, they will snap quite easily if you have managed to drill most of the weld away. If it is stubborn, try a slightly bigger drill bit.. here using a screwdriver (arrowed), you can see the bracket separating from the body.. (there are another 3 spot-welds underneath which I have also drilled) Next pic shows bracket coming away, still held a bit by one of the welds underneath.. Finally, bracket off, showing the body of the car where it was, no damage except for a few holes.. and the bracket, also undamaged.. when you re-weld the bracke to it's new position, these drill-holes are the perfect spot to use to weld the bracket back to the body. I use a tig welder to do this as it doesn't create much heat to warp the metal.. You can then add some welds around the edge of the bracket for more strength if you wish. Final pic showing the bracket in the spot where I will weld it... Hope this is useful to any of you doing repairs or conversions like me.. Will

Reached a significant point in one of my bigger projects today, namely the steering wheel is now on the right side.. and working!! (it is a BMW btw..) Have the pedal box, brakes and wiring to go. Wiring is a biggie so will be interesting to see if I survive it! I will post the full detail of the conversion when I am finished, dozens of pics etc so anyone could attempt it if they felt up to it. Just one for now as an appetiser.. Andrew (the godfather, bowdown!), seeing there are a number of fairly significant conversions on the go at the moment (Riley's V8 for one), maybe we should have a separate section where members can post these up? Just a thought.. (hope you post yours up Riley, with plenty pics..) Will

those wheels/brakes...

Don't think it is an 'M' though, just a converted 325 from the description. If it were an 'M' it would have a full mtech2 kit for starters. I think Martyyn knows more about it. See topic 325 Will

I'm with Sam, a few good features on the external bodywork but ruined with riceyness.. top marks for effort though! Will

same for me.

Hope you replaced them all. There have been many E30 barbq's from fuel lines rupturing, you were blerry lucky mate! I ALWAYS replace fuel lines an all my e30's when I buy them, along with a fresh timing belt. Will

I am on IE7 and noticed no difference when I upgraded from IE6 a short while ago, mine is fast at the moment, has been most of the time except for a few site outages a while ago. I am on broadband too, not the fastest out here in the wops, but glad to have it. When I first moved here, they couldn't get my broadband connected at first and I was on dialup using IE6. I couldn't load Bimmersport at all it was so slow. The page used to time out. My ISP is Xtra. So maybe your line is bad? That is what Xtra told me when I complained about the dialup.. Will

I ordered my 2 sets 12 Jan, think Emma about the same time. I got notification of a parcel on friday and collected them from the post office yesterday, same as Emma. My first set for the 'vert took no longer than 2 weeks. Sounds like you have the bad luck gremlin on your shoulder Martin, throw some salt over it... (supposed to get rid of them I believe..!!?? (my gran used to tell me that..) Chris is definitely on to it and keeps in touch with emails so you know what is happening, including emailing a proof of the plates so there is no mistake. Will

poor aussie..

www.germanplates.com as stated, when you go there, look down the bottom of the page, they are doing a deal for 2 plates for $39.95US, with shipping comes to $50.85US, works out to roughly NZ$73 at current exchange rates excluding paypal charges. If you order 2 sets, you will save a bit on shipping, so find a mate.. yup, but the touring belongs to my dragon..Will

Got my Germanplates for the touring and M325i today.. group hug with the 'vert.. Will

mercedes benz bedspread = ban!!

I'm with Kerry here, police should be allowed to permanently confiscate cars like that AND give the driver a LARGE number of public service hours, if not jail time for seriously deficient cars. I have spent quite a time in the volunteer fire service and have had to cut out dead and dying youngsters who have crashed cars because of drink, speed and hopelessly unroadworthy cars.. cars riding on bumpstops and having cut springs definitely a prime cause!!! So, what do you want to do, look supposedly cool to your idiot mates and risk dying (and probably taking out innocent families when you do it), or look not so cool and live (along with the rest of the innocent public!). Like Kerry, I have built and raced some VERY high powered cars, and driven similarly high powered cars on the public roads, but they have ALWAYS been capable of handling the speeds we have driven them at!!! That is why I have lived through to 50+ and enjoyed every moment of it. Suggest you try it.. Will

Bentley for what car? E30? E36? They are much cheaper than you are quoting. Will

actually, what I should've said is Drifty may be a stud but not 5..

Tell their insurance to piss off.. get it valued by BMW and also an independant assessor with no links to said company. They will look at the overall condition of the car and give you a proper value. Insurance assessors are only there to get the best deal for the company they work for, don't care about you. There are others out there, Chris springs to mind, who have had to fight similar battles, Chris, help a fella in need here??? Will

drifty isn't.

I personally wouldn't pay 20K for it but it might be worth that if it is concourse. One thing against it is the km's, bit high for most collectors. But, I have known people to pay way over top $$ for the right car in the right condition, this one might shout out to the right buyer. I would certainly pay good money to get the right car. So, view the car before you rip his asking price to pieces, and see why he thinks it is worth what he is asking for it, you may be suprised. If someone wanted my cab or Alley's touring, I would definitely be asking similar figures that would pull the "know-alls" out of the woodwork and evoke similar rantings.. Finally, I bet one of our top "know-it-alls" from this forum who thinks he is the godfather of E30's, has had something stupid to say as usual...!!! My little rant.. Will

Hey Kerry, we need to beat that yankee imperial sh*t out of you and bring you into the metric world..!! I would think that I would try a 3.91 first, will give you better cruising but still allow you to get going with your M42 power???.. (bit strange to use M42 and power in the same sentence..!! ) If you want more boy-racer acceleration, use the 4.1. my 2c worth.. Will

This is the best I have, not really hi-res, but the idea is to get the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys lined up, remove the dizzy and get the rotor to line up with the mark (arrowed) when you replace it. After you need to check the timing with a light, but if it almost lines up, you can fine tune it by rotating the dizzy clockwise/anti-clockwise till the "fingers" on the dizzy, both the fixed ones and the ones attached to the rotor shaft, line up, and the car will start. Give me a call if you don't follow what I am trying to say and i will talk you through it. Will PS if this works (and it will), you owe me becks...