will

I would steer away from tardeme and let Troy sort you out. I suspect that what he does not know about welders/welding is not worth bothering about... if you visit his workshop you will see what I mean..

I had issues with my M60 V8 auto box being stuck in 3rd gear. Turned out to be 1 broken wire in the ecu plug, obviously caused by all the wiggling/fitting of the looms into the e30. Took me about a year to find it! Bstrd !!!!

The M52 engine loom has all the relays etc necessary to run the motor, all you need to do is splice it into the C101 plug next to the fuse box. Can give you all the details if you need some help.

That is why i did it, everything that is non-standard requires a cert from the engineer=$$$$$$. Mine was a real picky bloke, went through the underside with a fine toothcomb, didnt spot it... Yours looks like the one i made for my m60 conversion, strong like Russia!!! I also combined it with the driveshaft hoop (which I didnt need for the m52 conversion, was not required when I did the conversion back in 2008). m60.. all 6mm angle/plate. on car

M10 or M40?

I used a getrag 260 behind my m52b28, modded the xmember like this.. (standard xmember up front). Uses the standard rubber mountings.

I'll have the gear knob and the boot if you will post to me.

Where is it leaking? Sideshafts or input? How many bolts are there around the sideshaft flange, 6 or 8?

Do a basic ecu check, unplug one of the wheel sensors and see if it faults when you start driving. If it does, then I would think it is ok and the fault likely is with the hydraulic unit. There are 2 relays on the unit, one a standard 85-86-87-30 and the other a more specialised one, but which is found in most hydraulic units of that era eg e32/34, so sourcing one should not be a problem. The relays are easily tested to see if they are functioning properly. The hydraulic unit (asc) is the same as found in the e32 740i but the ecu is different. 750i e32 asc/ecu is compatible. IIRC, Darren (SRBMW) wrecked a 750i (e32/e38?) some time ago, he may still have the ABS/ASC bits around as all he wanted it for was the motor for one of his projects..

Compression test should be done with plugs removed, throttle wide open and then cranked via the diagnostic socket so that no power goes to any other circuit, just the starter motor. The vanos should be left undisturbed/no power to it. Seeing it is on a stand with manifolds and cams removed (so valves should all be closed), a quick way to check if you have bent valves will be to put some paraffin/diesel into each cylinder, replace the spark plugs and then invert the engine. if the valve/s are bent, the liquid will escape rapidly. Dont forget to drain the oil first. Alternatively you can use a leak tester. If this shows bent valves, then off with its head... However, from your description, I suspect something has gone wrong with the chain/tensioner causing it to lock the crank from turning in either direction. (top end failure will normally not lock the motor solid in either direction unless it is a catastrophic failure, your work on it should not have this result). I would firstly remove the sump and have a look from the bottom. See if the chain is hooked up somehow. (It should be loose as the cams are out). Let me know what you find.

What pump unit and ecu (part numbers) does your car have Jules? Car have ASC or ASC+T?

Take the tyres off the rims too, that will get it even closer to the ground.. P.S. have passed your name, pic and rego WY6507 onto my buddy who just happens to be a patrol cop in your area... he reckons that it will be heading to the crusher if it is found on the road like that. knuckledragger

What model box? I have a good 5hp24 minus bellhousing off a V8.

Had a look at FCP Euro website. Some prices are good but there are a lot that you will get cheaper at the $$tealer here locally. Then there is Gavin at Euro Italian who supplies a lot of OEM quality parts and will ship anywhere quickly, would be suprised if you would beat his prices/service from overseas. I do buy from overseas but find that about 70% of goods are cheaper/quicker to source here.

Did they make you stand in the corner wearing a dunce cap???

Someone has to get more beer for the lord and master...

Just remember that the diagnostic capability of a '91 e31 is likely to be the same as an e30, or, at best, marginally better. The quickest way will be to go back to the basics of gas analysers, timing lights/meters, compression gauges, leak testers and so on. When I was back home, I had an Allen tester in my workshop (1998 era). Was pretty good at working on BMW's/Mercs which I specialised in. It would read timing, do gas analysis, provide an electronic compression/balance test etc. When I still had a problem it could not pinpoint, I would go to my mate down the road and put it on his rolling road which was a dynamic one, could load the car up as if it was actually driving under various loads. The main components in your car are the 2 ECU's for the motor and the gearbox ECU, they control 95% of the car's running. Things like the traction control only have an input when required. You should be able to unplug just about all of the other controllers and still drive the car as there is no CAN BUS to worry about, there is minimal interface between the various units. The e31 is basically a simple car ruined by over complicted wiring and add-ons which are badly installed. I have not worked on one before, but, looking through the various wiring and workshop information I have, it is like working on 2 6cyl Motronic BMW's siamezed into 1..

Near te Uku on the way to Raglan off SH23.

If your diagnostic is not working, I would start by checking continuity in the RXD (white/yellow) and TXD (white/violet) wires from the diagnostic socket pins #15 and #20 respectively to the 2 ECU's and the EML unit in the engine bay. (pins #87 in the 2 ECU's and pin #13 in the EML for RXD and pins #88 in the 2 ECU's and pin#55 in the EML for TXD). The 850 is renowned for bad electrical connections in the splices etc. The first (and main) splice for TXD and RXD from the diagnostic socket lies between it and the ECU's/EML units. I would be inclined to find these 2 splices and then disconnect the other inputs from them (which come from various units inside the car), leaving just the 2 ECU's and the EML units connected. I would then check if I was getting some sort of diagnostic information. If this were the case, I would then connect the interior wires one by one to see when TXD/RXD stopped. This would then tell you which cluster of modules was shutting the system down. This diagnostic system is pretty basic, disconnecting modules will not disable the diagnostics, the reporting system will simply report the particular module is not responding. As the various modules are scattered through the interior of the car, you would be pretty much be stripping the car apart to get to them. Be nice to be able to target the problem to save all that stripping..!!! If you get stuck, feel free to bring it down to my place and I will have a looksee..

Red/black/yellow should come from fuse #6. It powers the hazard flasher relay and crash control module. Will be easy to check if it is by connecting a multimeter to it, checking if it has +12v, then remove fuse #6. White/yellow is normally the RXD to the diagnostic plug (in most BMW's), cant find any trace of a white/yellow/yellow in any of the e31 models. As the engine is essentially two 6cyl motors, most sensors would be duplicated. So, if there is not a duplicate plug on the other side, I can only assume it is for something unrelated to the engine controls, possibly a sensor for the crash control which never made it into the car?? You could check the plug on the crash control module for this wire, seems the most likely place to find it if the red/black yellow wire is connected to fuse #6. Easiest would be to remove the module and check for continuity between the white/yellow/yellow wire in the mystery plug and any of the pins in the crash control module.

What colours are the wires in the plug? My auto Disco used to do 25-30l/100, used to struggle to get 400kms on 100l tank! At least yours can do 250kmh... Have you had a gas analyser on it? Would be a good start to figure if the mixture was rich. Check what fuel pressure it has in the rails and make sure it holds the pressure overnight. Would also pay to pull a few injectors and check the spray pattern, if any show poor pattern, get the whole lot serviced. you need to put a stick shift in..

Just add his name to your blacklist, it will then not allow him to bid further.

$40 ?

Front and side indicators available?

Did you do the conversion to single phase? if so, how?