will

Standard bilsteins with 40mm lowering springs, cant remember the make.

I am with the others in that 17" are too big for the e28. I have a set of 16" ET15 AC Schnitzers fitted to my M535i. I also have another identical set in 17" ET 20 which I tried on but looked wrong, so it is back on the 16's. I also removed the Mtech kit, prefer the clean look.

Dont have any more pics unfortunately. I would have used rivnuts if I had the tool/nuts back when I did this, but just used square M6 nuts which I spot welded to various places on the body, pretty much where spot welds had been drilled. Also beefed up the body with some sheet metal where the slam panel and the outer fender walls join to make the whole thing a bit more solid. Drilling out the original spot welds was the hardest part of the operation! Pain in the butt job...

Must be something in the water in Whangarei, everyone there seems overly touchy!

Decided I hate your current plate, you need a black one..

His flywheel has the trigger on it fortunately.

The only way my M325i will get anywhere near 6L/100kms is if I am freewheeling down a cliff face.... anything less than 12L/100kms and you are a Granny!

Your gearbox is most unlikely to have the mounting points for the cylinder ID and speed sensors, nor will your flywheel have the trigger tab. At his stage, go for 1.3 motronic system as it is a far superior electronic system to the old 1.0 motronic. It is an easy install. The main bits you will need are a loom, crank pulley, crank sensor and ECU. You can source all the bits (including ECU) from a 2.0L motronic 1.3 and re-chip the ECU if you cant source a 2.5 donor (ECU's are the same apart from the chip). You will need to carefully check your C101 (round) plug pin configuration, in particular pin#20, BEFORE connecting the new engine loom to the body loom. Failure to do so could result in a fire!!!! Reason is that early looms had a ground connection through pin#20, later looms often had a live feed servicing the ABS. If you need any more info, PM me.

I would bet a penny to a pound that most of the warrant places that I have had the displeasure of dealing with would not have seen that, they only look for bits to fail the vehicle on so they can make money, e.g. tie rods, ball joints, play in rack etc etc etc etc. Also, double that bet the AA would have missed it too.. Unfortunately, competent mechanics/workshops are very much an (almost) extinct breed, profit/turnover is the modern name of the game...

Heat gun and ice cubes will probably remove it (from what I can see in your pic. At worst, you might have to remove the plastic inner to get to it to tickle any remaining dint (tiny dent) out with a suitable dolly/hammer.

Far side could be the cruise control unit (strange shape though) as the car is fitted with cruise, even though the vendor does not mention it. Near side the twin pipes are the headlight adjusters (will be a miracle if they work!), and the large aluminium pipe is for the A/C. Car looks in really top condition, well worth the asking price IMO. You will struggle to find another in this (what looks to be) unmolested condition.

Good luck finding an e34 sump for reasonable money. Wreckers on here will want your first born as a deposit... however, if you can find an old e34 with a m50b20 motor, that sump will fit as the 2.0/2.5 blocks are the same basic casting. Likely to be able to buy a 520 for peanuts as nobody wants them (but they are also not very plentiful like the 525's, so happy hunting..) You can use an e38 m52b28 motor, has the correct sump on but you will need e36 engine mounting arms, the e38 arms will not work. This is the route I would take as there are plenty of m52b28 e38's to be had for cheap. When I did my first m52b28 conversion back at least 10 yrs ago now, I used an e36 coupe as a donor, and e34 sumps were plentiful as the old e34's were dying and getting wrecked aplenty. However, most have now gone to china to make toasters so slim pickings to be had.. Using the m54 motor will involve major work to get the integrated electronics working, not worth the effort. If you want to speak to someone who went down this path, get hold of Westy. Easier/better to find a 3L crank and make a stroker m52 if c.c. floats your boat. Best... M60/M62->e30 is for real men..

Firstly, is the solenoid throwing the starter gear forward when spinning up? If no, sort the starter/wiring/grounding/battery out. Battery could be the demon here if it is flat/weak etc. If yes, did you install the flywheel hard up against the crank or did you use the spreader/shim (example shown here as part #10 http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-2-doors/Europe/325i-M20/R-M/1987/browse/engine/flywheel_twin_mass_flywheel/#pos_10 )between the crank end and the flywheel? (seen this done a few times now by certain to remain unnamed persons with the same outcome as you are having... ). Any doubt here, you need to measure the distance from the rear block-bellhousing mating face to the front face of the ring gear and then check that the starter gear shows sufficient forward travel to properly mesh with the ring gear. (I am too far from my shed right now to measure what the block-flywheel gap should be- and it is belting down outside!).

Are you still using the M52B28 dual mass flywheel/clutch? Or did you fit the M20 single mass unit? Not clear from your description...

For starters.. Your system must hold pressure overnight (3 bar). If not, it must be sorted before you fiddle with anything else. Does it? Also, your fused relay is a bodge, if you are only getting 10.5V at the OEM supply, you need to sort out the issue as it will have far reaching consequences, not confined to the pump supply. You need to put your bodge in the bin and fix it properly.

M70 is a narrow V-block - will fit in easily into an e36/46 bay. The neat thing with a V12 in an e30 is you can get it up between the frame rails, whereas the V8 has to go in the top because of the wide V. Means you can lift the V12 up compete with tranny into the bay, the V8 you have to lift the gearbox up from underneath as the combo really does not like going into the e30 bay as a unit! Also the V8 exhaust headers are VERY tight against the e30 rails, does not allow much fancy pipework. With the much wider bay of the e36/46, and the bolt off front, fitting a V12 will be a breeze, making decent headers will also be much easier. I have dummy fitted a V8 into a Ti just to sort out how the sump/ARB etc will work. The dummy is just the block, no heads yet, but I think there will definitely be plenty of room for a decent-ish set of headers in there compared to the ones on my e30 V8. Go for the V12, the sound is awesome and it is a relatively cheap conversion to do... except for fitting a manual box, that will be a challenge !

Glenn has done quite a few V10 conversions along with a multitude of other mad ones as well for customers. He can do V10 conversions in his sleep now

Yesssssss !!!

Got mine from Gavin at Euro Italian, good service, quality and price as usual ! Timing chains/guides are a must-do.

Licence disc says 1995 model, so something not quite right there. Apart from that, it looks like a money pit!

Please enlighten me.. PM if you dont want to say anything on the open forum.

Do you have decent pics of the release bearing/lever/pivot setup you can post up here/PM to me?

That release bearing is showing definite signs of running hard up against the pressure plate tension springs! Are the visible 'dash' marks actual indentations ? If they are, then your pressure plate would have been semi-loaded and not providing the grip it was supposed to. You definitely need to check clearances between the bearing/pressure plate, firstly without installing the hydraulic slave cylinder, to ensure there is good mechanical clearance. If this checks out, install the slave cylinder/pushrod with its piston in the fully retracted position (with cylinder empty of fluid-not connected to the hydraulic system) and make sure it does not load up the bearing onto the pressure plate springs- there MUST still be good mechanical clearance to allow for wear of the friction plate which will naturally lift the spring height and close the gap.. Once all is checked and OK, the hydraulic system can be filled, bled and clearances checked again. BTW, all the measuring can be done with the gearbox on the bench if you make a suitable jig to mount the flywheel/clutch assembly to the 'box. IIRC, the OEM M5 clutch setup has to be used with a dual mass flywheel as it adjusts itself in conjunction with the dual mass system..? Could be mistaken but remember this being discussed on one of the overseas forums where there are plenty of M5 V8 bm's around and plenty of blokes trying out all sorts of things. Large delay in replying as I have been in and out all day trying to get my tractor going in amongst the almost continuous rainstorms so I can finish off drilling holes for fence posts.... damn diesel injector pump.. Second-hand dual mass flywheels can be reused but you need to carefully examine them before committing to using them. They are always a risk, but if $$$ is an immediate issue, and you are prepared to haul the whole setup down at some later time, then it is worth the risk, especially if the alternative is walking...

it still looks as rough as it was when i saw it in the flesh a few years ago. Would've not touched it then, same now looking at the pics in the current ad.

That flywheel/pressure plate shows definite signs of severe overheating due to slipping. Unfortunately, the degree of overheating visible suggests prolonged abuse/slipping, not generally associated with gentle granny-type driving. If it started having issues on it's own (not because of doing donuts/burnouts etc. ), why did you continue using it instead of parking it and investigating why it was playing up? I assume this clutch setup is as described by Darren as you have posted it in this topic? If so, the only difference in the setup from that in a V8 ford is that the centre of the friction plate has been replaced with a BMW unit. The overall makeup of the flywheel has no bearing on the matter as the only important issue is that the mating face suits the Ford clutch unit. Next critical item is getting the release mechanism in the bellhousing to work with the overall flywheel/clutch assembly height. Not exactly rocket science with a conventional clutch assembly.. As this one worked after installation, I would assume that there were no issues here. Post-installation, the only issue I can see occurring is the slave cylinder jamming in a partially active position, causing the bearing to sit in a loaded state on the pressure plate forks. (I do not suspect issues with the master cylinder as this will normally be obvious with a drop of pedal height). This would normally be apparent on removal of the gearbox with the tension springs mating face showing signs of distress, along with the bearing itself having signs of being continuously engaged on its mating face and probably having excessive play due to it not being designed to run continuously at high RPM. In your pic, I am afraid the tension springs' mating face does not show any evidence of prolonged loading. I cannot comment on the state of the bearing without physically examining it. You mention that you found some loading of the bearing on removal, you need to carefully examine the cause of this- simply shortening the push rod might only provide a masking of the actual cause, if this is indeed a fault. The other items that could cause issues you have described are failure of the friction plate material and collapsing of tension springs in the pressure plate. Your pic of the friction plate shows no visible evidence of material failure that I can see as it looks intact and in reasonable condition, given the degree of slippage you describe. The tension springs in a pressure plate generally fail in one area, leaving visual evidence of a lack of overheating in that area, with the balance showing evidence of extreme overheating due to that lesser area having to do all the clamping work and allowing slippage/overheating as a direct result of not being able to cope. From what I can make out from your pic, the mating surface of the pressure plate shows distress across the whole face, which I would not expect to find in this case. However, a proper examination is needed to properly determine whether the pressure plate did in fact fail. In your case, due to the extended use after failure of the clutch system, I believe this will now be impossible to determine. Finding a replacement friction plate and pressure plate should not be an issue if the system has been built up from the Ford V8 assembly, all that needs to be done is to have the centre BMW hub installed into the Ford unit. Any competent clutch manufacturing/refurbishing company would be able to do this. This modification would not alter the available clamping pressure of the unit, nor the torque it is able to successfully handle. But before you simply fit it, you would need to get the flywheel checked for trueness/refaced or the whole unhappy saga will just happen again. Lastly, saying that ownership of several hondas, including some type r models, qualifies you as "not a novice driver who burnt out the clutch" is a bit like saying that you previously designed and built many luxury houses, so it can't be your fault that the first multi-story office block you designed and built, collapsed--- it must be due to materials supplied by others. Just remember the e39 540i is an ~1800kg blue whale with elephant-like ~440Nm at 3600rpm of torque compared to an integra type R which weighs in at a slim ~1100kg with ~180Nm at 7200rpm of lady-like torque. (The 540i probably has more torque in it's starter motor.. ) 2 totally different vehicles which require driving styles to be totally re-learned when swapping cars for the first time. Good luck with getting it fixed!