LemonHunter

You could enter the VIN Numbers in a vin decoding tool and find out what the motorsport parts actually are.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-986458844.htm Could be a bargain project or parts car for someone.

Oh it's just an adventure wagon and second set of wheels now that my lemon E30 is up on axle stands for month... wait. .. your right.

I think the 2l and 2.4l mitsi van motors were pretty underpowered, but the 2.8L turbo diesel is another story. Didn't know about the parts scarcity. Good tip, cheers.

I know i should probably ask on nzmmc, toyspeed or nzorc, but they are primarily trolled by meatheads and I've forgotten my passwords, is nzmmc still active? I digress, I've got the hots for a Diesel Mitsubishi Delica Spacegear, they just pull so hard! And you sit so high up so for a romantic like me they enhance road trips. Toyota also has 4wd vans but i just don't rate them on looks or performance. I'm unfortunately aware though that Big Mitsubishis, especially Diesels, aren't terribly reliable are they, frequent and sometimes expensive maintenance. Anyone able to provide some guidance or advice, one way or the other?

Fuel filter and distributor rotor and cap? Check the latter two for wear anyway.

Was it auto and do you have an auto transmission mode button?

You totally wimped out with a classified not a listing, how we all supposed to enjoy the inane commentary. E.g. I'd ask if you wanted to trade for a mint E30 ;-)

If the end of the crank isn't absolutley stuffed... looks like the heads coming off.

Quick question, E30, Motronic (i think, timing teeth on the harmonic dampener). Do they run a unique map for WOT that ignore the AFM? I have some hunch that they do, making APexi power fc & gizzmo afc etc a very poor choice for tuning... My E30 has a camfc as the PO had intended to run a supercharger with a Clutch to activate at whatever RPM. The car does have the B25 intake and injectors aparently and some grinding on the ports or valves maybe, so some tuning is probably desirable, but i question if the camfc is the best means.

Measured the depth of the hole, 70mm, i.e. no stub of the bolt, it totally fell out.

Any thoughts if this is oil or fuel? The thread of the plug seems wet with fuel or oil or a mixture. and there seems to be a mix of shiney and fluffy carbon build up. An earlier thread of mine discussed how after really hard driving (Takaka Hill (365 corners over 800m of altitude gain and loss)), it would dump a plume of light grey smoke when I came back on the gas from either deceleration or sitting on the side of the road idling for a time.

Beleive me this option has crossed my mind

He's spent easily 1k on it just reading through the listing...I think maybe he's found some serious problem... transmission maybe Around the 250k mark the v8 e39 all seem to lunch the tranny.

Swap for a mint E30?

I've got a foot in the 'better the devil you know' camp. Plus I'm in chch. All the solid m20b25s, & e30s are up north. Topping that off i have zero job security as of today so i need to spend the minimum right now

My intent is not the name and shame the PO, it's entirely plausible he was ignorant to the extent of the dramas, and at the end of the day, it serves as a warning, don't buy a car, as is where is, sight unseen, when advised against it.

So I've decided to start a Lemon Log as opposed to a Project Log http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/54502-the-lemon-log-aka-my-e30-saga/

So I was going to make a project log, but this is probably going to have more questions than answers. So linking from here http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/54477-weird-rhythmic-knocking-m20b23-in-1990-320i/ The back story is I bought a 1990 320iA that had been re-powered with a M20B23. A few oddities have presented as I've tried to get this thing up to spec, including; metal filings in the radiator, LOADS of crap in the fuel filter/tank. (3 fuel filters down (replacing it each tank of gas) and still sediment coming out). Rust... everywhere water in the passenger footwell possible leaky valve stem seals But enough about the past. So the whole time i've owned it there has been a weird rhythmic knocking from the engine bay I assumed to be either normal, or nothing serious. It started getting louder and louder, then the power started to drop noticeably plus some miss fires on deceleration, that's when I noticed that the toothed part of the vibration dampener was rubbing on the water pump pulley, and it was wobbling, and the jesus bolt was MIA... FML. So the back of the waterpump pulley and the front of the vibration dampener had lost a bit of material. Close up on the dampener What a normal one looks like Anyway, I got down to business tonight and pulled everything off the front of the motor. The good news is, it looks like all of the bolt rattled out, rather than shearing off, I can feel the outer threads in the hole. Plus I measured the depth, the bolt is 65mm long, and the whole is about 70mm deep from the face of the cam belt cog. The bad news is there is a LOT of either rubber or metal filings... buggered if I could find a magnet to verify. So the last bit, which I realise now is the cam belt driver cog, seems to move a lot, and this is probably because the jesus bolt is missing, but with the bolt off would you consider this much movement normal? I'm guessing to be safe I need to pull this cog off and make sure everything underneath isn't too untoward... Assuming everything inside isn't totally funked from the amount of wobbling the dampener had been doing for so long, I may need to replace the timing belt as well, it may be prematurely worn from the wobbling. And if the and of the end of the crank isn't funked, while timing belt is off, I may as well take the damn head off too and replace the stem seals that seem to be leaking. I'm going to be waiting a couple of weeks for the jesus bolt to show up.

I've already ordered the proper one, 2 weeks ex germany :-/ just a bugger of a time to be vehicle-less

I can see that the head has a weird profile, but other than that?

Any thoughts on substitution of a regular ordinary M18 x 65mm high tensile steel bolt for the actual bmw listed part the holds the timing and accessory pulleys on the front of my M20 motor? Assuming of course i can get the stub of the old bolt out...

I'm sure it's a lot quicker than an engine swap.

I did find this, http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/792751-broken-crank-bolt-removal.html There goes my weekend.

I think perhaps before i totally give up I'll try that, and i might epoxy it back together again for good measure haha. Do you know if the bolt is a one shot use deal?