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LemonHunter

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Everything posted by LemonHunter

  1. Project log now begun http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/56939-e36-318is-ms-sedan-fixer-upper/
  2. Ride Height and Window Regs were todays mission, both were proper f**ked, left door was panel off when I bought it, with over half the bushes mounting posts missing, and some other parts, basically windows were stuck or wedged up and the seller instructed me not to touch the buttons or armageddon, I didn't take any pics of this work, but it's complete now, and if anyone else has to do it I recommend this tutorial with the caveats that apparently these never had window stoppers, and a Reciprocating Multitool thing with a metal cutting blade is probably easier than the Dremel he suggests, that's what I used anyway. Old and new springs side by side, I suspect the front springs are from a 325 or 328, new springs left old springs right, Ride Height front before and after respectively; Not a massive drop, but It's a really smooth ride, the springs are Eibach/Bilsteins or some such that Brent happened to have laying around. Rear dropped a fraction, but no where near as much as the front, the spring rate feels nicer at both ends, and it's a much smoother ride than my slammed(ish) E30.
  3. Where to begin... this E36 is a Commemorative model from South Africa, and it's had a rough life, been deregged, found itself owned by Pick-A-Part, and other travesties like Shadow Chromes. The price was right, but a LOT of work is ahead of me to get this thing looking good and back to basically stock, because it was pretty sweet ex factory. I know, I know, I should have gotten a 323/325/328/M3 or whatever, but, the fuel economy in these things is awesome, and it's a shopping cart first and foremost, and for me, the power of my E30's M20B23 was more than enough, and this has the same, 100ish KW, I get my giggles in the corners. The Shitlist: (For now, I'll probably thing of more, Turbo or NOS or something). Find some 17" Style 32's (They were what was factory on this. Fix weird Swaying when corning or weight goes on/off front axle (Sway Bar had almost fallen off left hand tie rod due to nut being loose) Fix Both front Window Regulators Fix Sun Roof Sort out ride height (Installed Eibach Lowering Springs) Clear Coat peeling terribly Dozens of dings and dents Replace lamps behind dash cluster (centre one or two are out) Passenger side kidney grill Replace missing wheel bolts on FR, RL & RR wheels. Wheel Alignment Fit Front Upper Strut Brace Swap Boy Racer 'Dumpy' muffler for DTM Style Remus Drivers right seat bolster Steering wheel leather, or preferably smaller diameter steering wheel Glove Box won't stay up Install Sub Woofer Swap current head unit with Bluetooth Replace Gearbox (currently popping out of third) 5 Speed 'M' OEM Leather Gear Knob Z3 Shifter DSSR and new bushings everywhere for shifter linkage Fogging inside passenger head light Bumper and side skirts need serious TLC or replacement Mount Front Number plate... properly. Install factory Air Intake or nice Aftermarket Kit
  4. Looking for a G250 box, mine won't stay in 3rd. As found in E36 & E46 316 & 318, plus E36 Z3 1.8 and 1.9s.
  5. Well this is a pretty close call.... I'm leaning towards the E34 based on the look and lower Milage, and it's had every mod I'd want to do done I think. Price is still on the high side.... watch this space
  6. Some are probably aware that two Manual V8 BMW Wagons are on the market right now, An E34 and an E39, the former has had the 4.0 donk swapped out for the later 4.4, and both are converted Manuals rather than native. My question is, which is better and why, I'm torn between the shapes, and figure that comfort and handling is probably better on the E39... but the E34 has lower K's on both the Motor and The Chassis,
  7. They are the E39 ones then, 7", will be hunting for the original styles are part of the build, now living on my driveway. Battery being weird, wouldn't start first morning, battery condition indicator green though, gave the battery a shake and it started fine
  8. These may not be BBS wheels? I can't see them on the BMW 'style' sheet either.
  9. Also what model and price is the gearbox?
  10. Are the springs and shocks in this any good for my e36 318iS MS?
  11. As title, need a set of springs for an E36 318 Motorsport
  12. Other than trim and transmission, they may as well be clones, it's definitly a ZA MS, just waiting to find out what shocks it's running, gut feeling is they are MS shocks, but wrong springs.
  13. Spotted a 635 in Russley this afternoon, looks like someone's daily. Wheels have Alpina caps... But look a lot like bottle caps to me.
  14. This one is off forum, student in CHCH has it, i'm going to confirm the part number on the front shocks before i proceed, if its going to need the shocks replaced to get it handling right the price point isn't right for me, gut feeling is prior poster was right about them not being stock, it's possible that they are MS, but from 325 or 328, the shocks on this are only interchangable with the 316's, if it's just springs to swap it's not so bad, but if i'm going to have to throw 1K at it... makes better financial sense to buy the 328 auto on the forum and smash my G260 in it./
  15. I guess at $1500 I thought it would be good bang for buck
  16. Wonder if Kulgans 740 is still available, no replacement for displacement, right?
  17. My Libero never needed any of that carry on ;o) It has the same or slightly more power than my antique M20B23, that was plenty of power to put smiles on my dials in the port hills.
  18. It's possible yes, but most of the 328's are 3.5k up, the difference would buy me a turbo kit ;o)
  19. Does seem high for an M sport doesn't it...
  20. Looks like he accepted my offer and didn't realise I only wanted one set of wheels included... Anyone into shadow chrome?
  21. Needs wheel alignment and whatever would make the front right wheel able to wiggle in/out toe, but made an offer based on having the BBS wheels not the rubbish chromes, will wait and see
  22. +1 to this. even if your doing all the work yourself, price your labor, the time/effort/expense of doing a rebuild at this point is about the same as taking it out in 6 months if one of the above things fails (and then you'll have to spend the money anyway or roll the dice on another engine), it may have been running mint N/A, but as soon as you strap a hair drier to it what was an acceptable amount of bearing play for an N/A may cause some dramas. it will give you peace of mind and add resale value if you ever move it on. I once chose not to do this, and the excitement of getting it on the road 3 days earlier and $500 cheaper dissolved in short order... At the very least visually inspect and check all the tolerances anyway, maybe they are within spec...
  23. That's true, i have this horror idea that at pickapart it was picked apart and put back together with compact parts... or it was somthing mundane but serious seeming and someone had it salvaged for nothing, ended up at pickapart who fixed it and sold it complete.
  24. Looking for a shopping trolley/weekend toy and came across a 4 door Southafrican 318iS Motorsport with interesting options. but, it's had a helluva life by the looks of its ownership history including being registered to a pick a part at some point... Been deregged and reregged at least once dude only wants $1700 for it, gearbox won't stay in 3rd when decelerating and aparently front windows won't stay on rails. i have a getrag 260 I can probably make fit, and if the motor lunches itself id put something more exciting in it anyway... http://www.etk.cc/bmw/EN/vin/decoder/NA37235/EN/ https://carjam.co.nz/report/?ref=AFAF414F should I run for the hills? or is it worth a gamble...
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