M3AN

No idea why the first post is screwed up (for me at least) but everybody needs to check out this reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/PraiseTheCameraMan/ Boy this forum software sucks balls.

Agreed. It's the shitty climate and lack of indoor parking that destroys UK cars, not the salt on the roads. But any car that's lived a life in the UK needs to be thoroughly checked for rust, it's simple risk mitigation.

That'll be fine. On the shipping deceleration the sender just need to tick 'Gift' and write 'Lego' in the description. Small packages, irregularly sent to residential addresses and marked as a gift are rarely stopped. If they are stopped you'll face a delay only, no GST (or duty).

Sorry dude, have been a bit busy but just texted you.

The way I read your other post was that a license was needed, perhaps I got that wrong. Nevertheless claiming tax back is a more involved process and probably bureaucratic, and you've still paid NZ GST on it which will be even harder for Joe Blow to get back (read: impractical). A worthy consideration when freight forwarding, that's all.

Lordy, lord... that's disgusting. Loving the snow tyres. Rally bro.

The point @Mad_Max is making relates to using a freight forwarder - the seller is obliged to add tax based on the immediate destination, not the final one. So you can't claim VAT exemption, for example, if you're using a freight forwarder that has a UK address (well, until 31/10, or not).

If being the operative word here. Mine were harder to get out with old seals than they were to put back in with new seals. So I took the calipers to the local service station workshop and he blew them out with air for me for free (but I gave him change for a pint). Make sure you put a block of wood or something in there if you're blowing them out so you don't fire one across the room and damage it. Putting them back in was easy with some assembly lube (assuming you've cleaned the pistons and barrels up properly).

Actually way less than expected, $170. I mean that's still good money but I was fearing worse. Yeah, we don't need nav on the motorways for sure but we also don't need arbitrary changes in motorway speeds or changing from one type of sign to another. We also don't need cops sitting just outside speed zones (or passing lanes). I'll cop the fine, I was speeding but I think there's a big difference between a pretty honest mistake and an actual crime. C'est la vie.

Now have a hub puller set in Auckland available (can ship). A seriously useful tool if you're doing hubs or bearings.

When you get exactly the right tool for the job... F' you wheel hubs, four blows each and both sides just popped out. Inner races are both stuck on the hubs (to be expected).

Speeding tickets... Just got pinged for 104 in an 80 when I thought the limit was 100. F**k it, I pride myself on not speeding. City-bound on the north-western motorway, all the electronic signs said 100 but I missed the physical sign that said 80 somewhere around St. Lukes (apparently, I rarely use that motorway). I did however slow down for the very next 80 sign but too late. And for the first time in ~16 years I got pulled up on my (German) license plates. Cop wasn't a dick, didn't try to take them, gave me compliance instead of a fine but I'll only get away with that once. Funny thing - he thought the 'D' was for 'Denmark', then the Netherlands ('D'utch) and only clicked to 'D'eutschland once I explained it to him. He thought it was a fitting plate. He told me he pinged someone for 40km/h over just before... and losing your license is at 41km/h over (I thought it was 50!) so whoever that was was quite lucky I'd say.

I have a lightly used set (4) of Nanking NS2R semi-slicks in 225/45/17 that I no longer need if they're of interest to you? Just over 5mm thread tread left on each. Let me know if they appeal.

Good idea, just make sure their phone is normally locked (fingerprint, PIN etc) as you don't want to provide another (additional) attack vector.

That's an interesting point and yes, very true if you're drop shipping something from/to somewhere that has VA, GS or Sales tax... And even worse, because that'll form part of the base cost it'll also be included in the NZ tax calculation so you're paying a tax on a tax (which tax rules normally try to prevent).

True but then you can just log on via a regular browser. You may hit a geo-block and if you need your phone for 2FA you're screwed but a call to the bank would sort that. Don't use an internet cafe (use your hotel's internet) and always use an incognito/private window to do your banking (even at home!). But I think your conclusions are sound and if you apply a little common sense it's easy to avoid the pitfalls.

Well, you only lose it if they crack your PIN, use NFC (small purchases) or fake your signature... but you don't really "load" cards unless you're taking a pre-paid debit card and I think that's unnecessary (and I'd never put $5k on one of those!). Just take your normal cards, or even better, ask the bank for a spare card that doesn't have NFC. Make sure your bank app is on your phone so you can suspend a card if you find it missing... or suspend all your cards until you need to use one then it doesn't matter if any are lost. Pickpockets will target anyone they can, some targets are easier than others, just keep your wallet safe all the time (front pocket, never rear) and you don't need to worry about them.

Impromptu family lunch at Wendy's Greenlane...

Take some Euro with you after converting it in New Zealand. Given that will probably be less that EUR1000 the actual exchange rate isn't going to make much of a difference (+/- NZ$10) so just go somewhere convenient after having a cursory look at rates online. Treat this as convenience money. Your bank may actually allow you to hold that in your account and get it out from cash machines over there when you need it (for a fee of course). NEVER EVER use a 'hole in the wall' exchange facility overseas, that's guaranteed to be the worst rate. Equally, you'll get raped for currency conversions at airports so don't do it there. Don't take any NZ$ to convert overseas, you'll get a better rate here (because NZ$ is more liquid here). Put everything you can on your credit card in the foreign currency (EUR) not NZ$ even if offered, you'll get screwed on exchange rate again (plus a foreign currency fee). i.e. some of the POS units will ask if you want the transaction changed in NZ$, always say no. If you need more cash (EUR) use a cash machine at an actual BANK (some cash machines over there are not run by banks and you have less protection as a foreigner) with your NZ EFTPOS card and either swallow the fee (~$5) or try and negotiate with your bank before you go to waive such fees (can be done). Make sure your EFTPOS card will work internationally (needs the Plus emblem on the back - otherwise talk to your bank). Cash advance using your credit card is the most expensive way to get money. Avoid.

I think the nut sits on the hub itself, could be pushing and pulling against the same thing... but I hadn't thought of that so I'll have a look today, thanks. ? I have borrowed a proper bearing puller set... we'll see if I get to use it. ?

I'm the kind that says "if you need a socket, buy a set" and I was hoping to avoid having to buy yet another set of sockets. I mean I could do worse of course, new tools and all. ? Propane is supplied as LPG, it's as good as it gets before you get to oxy-fuels, pretty much the same temp as butane (edit: and I realise I said I'd purchased a "butane" torch before, my bad). I forgot to mention it was a good excuse to get a new tool! The plan (before I started) was that the hubs would come off easily enough... I thought they'd be difficult but not rhino difficult. The axle is now free enough that it'll actually slide out the back side of the hub now with enough force so it's no longer any good to press (pull) against. Thanks! I've done most of that (pretty much by trial and error), puller against axle with (a lot of) tension on the hub and flame around the flange, flange was hot enough to make WD40 sizzle on application... no budge. And now the axle has loosened up and slides freely within the hub so can't be used for purchase. ? I'll try and wind them off, I think a bearing splitter should work as a backing plate if I can find a 80-100mm one for good value. Oh, AND A NEW TOOL! ???

Yes and yes, the 328, rear wheel bearings. ?? If we get a fine patch tomorrow I'll try and wind it out... and post updates in my beater thread.

No idea what it's worth but that 'cockpit' is to die for, f**k touchscreens, give me banks of buttons and dials.

Sorry for being unclear, yes, that's what I'm referring to. And also yes, the half shafts now slide in and out of the hub splines. Thank you. It's not actually a physical access thing (yet)... even if I take the lowermost bolt with 'free access' from under the car I only have a 1/4" drive ET12 socket and that's nowhere near strong enough to crack those buggers... a 3/8" may do it but I'm not convinced, feels 1/2" tight. ? Unfortunately extensions just reduce torque so until I can crack the bolts they're not going to help. I have heaps of room under the car at the moment. Keeping in mind this car appears to have lived in a swamp for many of its previous lives, I've sprayed them all, will see what eventuates. But the hubs have got to come off first because if I can't get them off, I don't need the axles out. ? Whoever eventually buys this is going to get a brand new car, built from the inside out...

Got the rotor off... lucky I still had the lug bolts still in there or it would have taken out my legs and perhaps the wall of the house, I think the sound of it cracking free ricocheted around the neighbourhood for about 20 mins. Time, penetrating lube, the puller (3 days of tension) and a rubber mallet. So, if the rotor is effectively welded on how do you expect the hub will be... ?? Can't use the puller on that because the axle has now broken free of the hub so nothing to purchase on. Got a butane edit: propane torch, that did nothing except cook the bearing that's in there. Looks like I'll need to get a backing plate and try and wind it off using the lugs but if that doesn't work then I think I'll just put it back together and take it to a workshop... although I have no idea what they'll try. I'm not event sure I'll be able to get the half-shafts out, they're certainly not going to come free from the diff so it'll have to be done an an assembly. Can't even fit a socket bigger than 1/4" drive onto the inner bolts of the axle so impossible to get enough torque to get them out. Very poor design. What a PITA.