M3AN

Sweet, good of you to join up Glen. Post some road trip pics after you get home!

Replaced the brake light switch in the M3 today, that's the second (OE) replacement I've had to install in the last 5 years, this one better last. Also received a few boxes... and this is only about half of it, I had to split the shipments to circumnavigate customs. Remember - import tax and duty law changes on 1 October, order your overseas stuff now.

Interesting, what would a used set of 4 x blue motorsport brake calipers set one back, hypothetically of course...

Bummer...

Forget the new car warranty, it'll be more hassle than it's worth, get mechanical insurance instead and factor that into the cost. Check for rust behind the wheel well liners, if there's none then the rest is up to you.

Interesting, the e36? I've got some JVC 4" one-ways in the rear of mine (coupe though) and should probably upgrade to 6x9 3-ways...

Here they are, cheap as chips too. Available in 28, 32 and 36mm... I selected 2012 135i but you might want to have a play. https://www.carid.com/centric/replacement-caliper-piston.html

Man, they're really screwed, how are the bores because those pistons are seriously marred? My 150k kms brakes still had intact seals and perfect pistons... and no fancy ceramic insulators... that don't look like they do anything meaningful except break down. IIRC I could get new pistons from BMW even though they weren't listed in the ETK, did you try them? What size are the pistons?

Seems like a sharp price, especially if it has the options you want. An SRS warning may prevent you from getting a warrant, have them fix that at their cost if you buy it. Get a mechanical warranty and seriously consider a pre-purchase scan and mechanical inspection by a BMW specialist.

I suspect they get paid above the median. Not bad for a job that consists of meetings and zero effective accountability. Local government in NZ is a waste of time, period.

I enjoyed that, seemingly lots of potential. I also wondered about the intercooler, that's a serious compromise. Replacing the whole manifold is a solution sure but it'll be a crazy expensive conversion. I'm not sure that was best practice on cam removal. ?

The rollover in the black one looks like an interesting story!

The tyres will only be directional if they say so with a big arrow on the sidewall. Asymmetric tyres are rarely directional because that's not commercially viable for the consumer segment. What you're probably observing is the inherent compromise of the asymmetric pattern, it has to run in reverse on one side of the car. This has obvious disadvantages.

You could get two better cars for the price of one of these. Besides the fact that they're fugly they're seriously overrated, just get an M3.

This is more deduction based on the available evidence rather than cold, hard fact but: Remote expansion tank = self bleeding and durable Separate but not remote expansion tank = durable but not self bleeding Integrated expansion tank = neither self bleeding nor durable The integrated design relies on the integrity of the plastic radiator end-tanks which aren't particularly reliable.

Interested in: A, B, C pillar trims Fog lights (if not cracked or have burned wires) Digital climate console Is any of that still available?

Because, of the 3 (6 cylinder) radiator/expansion tank designs on the e36, the integrated one is by far the worst and aftermarket manufacturers recognised that from the outset.

Good find, sounds like it could well be the cause. Good luck.

It's almost certainly a short circuit and the blown fuse is likely the cause of your original pump not working (the original pump may be fine). If you're not familiar with tracing electrical gremlins you may need to take it to an auto electrician. If you have a multimeter and know how to use it then you can just get stuck in. A visual inspection including tracing all the wires is a good place to start either way. Look at all of the (relevant) wires and connectors between the pump and fuse, you're looking for any wear, loose wire, touching wire, loose connectors etc. If you disconnect the electrical connector to the pump, replace the fuse and start the car does the fuse blow again (without the pump connected)? If so then you have a short - somewhere a wire will be exposed and connecting to something else.

Same unit as on the S54, you might have more chance finding a blown one of those?

My car lived at Storage4you on Wairau Rd for 5 years for about $120 a month (it's since gone up to $153 a month) in a private lock-up, it might pay to give them a call. They'll obviously need a ground level unit available at the time you need it but they seem to have no problems with cars. They also store cars elsewhere on site in secure storage but no private lock-up - ask about those too, some areas are covered.

If you find one without the alu lid I have a spare one of those.

I have a working INPA/DIS ADS setup in Auckland - HP Laptop w/serial port, Win 10 32 bit, TinyADS cable. Used on many e36's and e39's but I've never plugged it into an e34. Hit me up if you think I can help or if you want to borrow my cable to test.

Yeah, FFS people need to treat these with more respect!

The blind spots in front of them? That's some signal leakage there. What are those frequency scanners/plotters called? It would be good to drive around for a bit and record all these omni-directional signal frequencies one day.