M3AN

It's always a tough decision to walk away from tyres with good life left in them, unless you have severe comfort issues with your runflats perhaps try some other things whilst you wear your existing tyres down? At least then, by the time you need new tyres, you'll have a better feel for whether you need different sizes. I'd do the camber pin mod, ideally add M3 lower control arms (TRW JTC1426/JTC1427) and then you'll need an alignment so ask for a tiny amount of front toe out. I suspect you'll notice a considerable reduction in corner entry understeer.

What size tyres are you currently running? A square 225 setup likely means you're reducing the rear footprint which will help with understeer but only because you can no longer put as much power down which is ultimately counter-productive (slower). I'd think 235's would be the minimum square setup to use although I've never been a believer in a square setup on a rear wheel drive car, tyre size is a pretty blunt instrument to address under (or over) steer. Better tyres, camber pin mod, M3 front arms and, some front toe out are all things I'd try before committing to a square setup.

I think it has some way to go to the floor since M3's and M5's typically dip below 20k before they recover, as difficult as that is to believe.

Reserved pending deposit. Deposit received.

Hi there, Up for sale is a complete e36 M3 coupe interior, electric front seats (Vaders), rear seats, bolsters, headrests, and door cards, in M-Rain fabric and Alcantara. There are no seatbelts but these are an easy exchange from your existing seats or you can pick them up from a wrecker (any e36 coupe/sedan belts will work). I will not separate the seats or the door cards but I will entertain selling the seats and door cards as separate lots although selling together is the preference. Front electric Vaders, rear seat base and split folding backs, bolsters, headrests: $1600 Front and rear door cards: $600 Everything together: $2000 Pick up only from Mount Wellington, inspections welcome by arrangement. Seats The seats are in good to very good condition with the exception of the driver’s seat which is in relatively poor condition. Given they’re 25+ years old they’ve held up well and were good enough for my car for 4 or 5 years. If you’re not going to get the driver’s seat reupholstered immediately, I’d swap the cushions with the passenger’s seat to buy some time. IIRC correctly I replaced the plastic cogs in the driver’s seat and that has full adjustment, I don’t think the seat base tilt is working on the passenger’s side but it’s set to a comfortable position and the other electrics and back fold etc work just fine. Regardless they’re sold as is. Door Cards The door cards are excellent for their age and although they have been reglued it’s been done well. The vinyl lining of some of the front pockets has delaminated and there’s a cut in one (see picture in zip file below) but this is hardly noticeable when installed. The cards themselves are in good shape with no cracks and all of the clips and brackets are intact, the clips were new about 5 years ago when I installed these on my car but it might be a good idea to have a couple spare, I can’t guarantee these. Pictures Below are some representative pictures, and here is a zip file (~150MB) with more high-res pictures. If you want additional pictures of anything specific, or have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Can you simply detach it from the window and bundle it and the cable up somewhere under the dash after extracting the cable from the headliner and pillar trim?

That's no good. Why was a pallet worth 40k unmarked?

No rush on the tools mate.

You can now test my driveway again, it may pass this time! 😉

You could include that in the unwritten set of rules you guys have, that we're all supposed to know and adhere to.

Looks good on those wheels actually.

Pictures can go missing here without notice and for reasons beyond your control, do not depend upon Bimmersport for anything important. This applies to thread content other than pictures as well. Consider yourself warned.

Reinforcing Apple's proprietary technology is never the wise long term choice, the privacy sacrifice is immeasurable.

You're familiar with stud pattern and want to fit 4x114.3 wheels on a 4x100 hub? How's that going to work? Besides that the centre bore is way too far off to make compatible, if you wanted to use adaptors (still not sure that gap is possible) then you'll also need a cert. I'd look for some other wheels you like, you can use a site like https://www.willtheyfit.com/ to plug in your stock wheel dimensions and the offset etc of wheels you like to see if they'll fit or poke too much. Whether they'll hit the brakes will require you to either take some measurements and do some calculations yourself, or use a combo tried and tested by somebody else.

You can buy good spring individually but they should be replaced in pairs. Lowering the front only will change the weight distribution and affect the handling. However, if your rear end has collapsed for any reason then lowering the front to match won't help with handling. Are you 100% sure the rear is at the correct (not just visually pleasing) ride height? Pics required.

They don't expire but you can't depend on Bimmersport to preserve them, if they're important then make sure you have copies elsewhere. I learnt this lesson the hard way.

In case anyone is looking, this is a sharp price. No affiliation.

It will be safe to remove, and yes ETC is the most likely.

Great result. 👍 Just be sure the easy start you got wasn't a result of residual pressure, you need to give it some time to depressurise before trying it again.

Bro, that sucks, I feel for you! How do you steal it without a key? Flatbed? Also on the news tonight (Prime) they actually had a bit on bs ownership registration in NZ and just how easy it was to game the system (as buyer or seller). Any DL number will do, it doesn't even need to match your name! But I agree, if the fools have re-registered the vehicle it should be easy to track them down, hopefully they don't wreck it in a paddock before it's found. Good luck mate, I'll keep an eye out for you, keep us posted on progress.

Just in case anyone is confused, that's ^ not an M3 but it is a picture of the correct part. Good luck, they've been NLA for some time.

I'd recommend against that unless you're a solicitor. As Kyu suggested above, say the minimum you can whilst remaining polite, any extra commentary just provides another vector for discussion or dispute that can obfuscate the fact that you are not responsible. The absolute most I would offer is to waive your right to privacy with respect to the most recent inspection by Continental Audi (that you paid for). This would allow the new owner to discuss that service directly with them and dispute the quality of their work if he wanted to dig in. But that has nothing to do with you, you just need to get out of the way. Hopefully the buyer sees reason though and accepts the reality of the situation he's in, tough as that might be.

Not an ideal situation but unless you're prepared to throw money at something you don't own, what are your options? Buying anything used comes with a degree of risk the buyer accepts, had the car blown up the day after you sold it it might be a different story (and you'd probably be having a chat to Continental Audi). I think you did everything you could before the sale, you have no obligation after the sale as long as you've been honest and it seems you have. Continental Audi effectively gave it a clean bill of health except for some minor items which a) you disclosed, b) the buyer accepted, and c) are reasonable for the age of the vehicle. As tough as it might seem this is a matter of caveat emptor, and in the ~45 days of ownership the buyer had ample opportunity to get a mechanical warranty and apparently chose not to.

Oh, the irony.

If you want the cops to turn up, quickly and in force, tell them you think you saw the passenger pointing a gun out the window.