M3AN

But that's not an ideal 'I want to sell my car' attitude. The buyer has the power remember and there are lots of 130's available. You need to meet the market, it won't meet you. I hope you get 10k but I'd lead with "I'm happy to negotiate" rather than "buy a lesser model". ?

The wheels are the same as they put on the "SE" (Special Edition) in the UK, they're polarising but popular. Exhaust is proper wicked. Prices have dropped considerably in the last few months though, I hope you get what you're asking but I'd suggest you prepare yourself for some stiff negotiation. GLWS, it's a nice example.

What's BMW "brake Lube"? A fancy name for expensive copper grease? ?

I wouldn't pay less than $1000 for them.

Red, I don't recall a cloth surface though and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't forget that. They came with the bars. Ha, I faffed around getting the 328 up and level before I did the swaybar, duh. M3 bushings, have you seen this, might help? https://www.babybmw.net/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=109115

I've not had a problem with the Eibach poly bushes and supplied grease on my M3 sway bars, three years now and counting I think. Are you taking all of the preload out of the bars before you tighten the bush mountings? Both wheels on the same axle need to be at ride height when you tighten them up... you really need ramps or a drive on lift. Anyway, the answer to your question is heavy duty marine grease. ?

Read away to your heart's content... https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-323i-lim/repair-manuals/00-maintenance-general-note/

Nice car Mark, some interesting options... did you buy the brakes also? And, given the discussions in this thread, did you pay anywhere near $16k? Regardless, if you want to swap some parts and make some cash back, send me a PM... ?

How soon is ASAP? I received mine from FCP in less than 7 days...

Yeah, that ^. I'd skip the one at Penrose Cars... one of the first I looked at. Expensive and well worn. Okay body kit though.

Huge difference to steering feel, must do.

No reserve? Okay, I'm opening at $1,000. ?

You'll be sweet then, they'll only need to take the foot. ?

Did they shave your whole leg? ?

Lifted the car today to check out the diff with the endoscope that @aja540i lent me... and fail. The largest internal hex bit I have is 12mm, need 14mm. All good, I'm not too concerned although it does mean that when I eventually need a diff service the rear cover will probably need to come off (I need to know the type of LSD before I replace any lube). So I played with a set of spare wheels... I don't think it makes any difference to be honest although the e36 offsets do fill out the guards more, not sure what BMW was smoking when they defined the specs of the wheels for the e8x?

Stunning colour, one of BMW's best. Looks tidy, GLWS.

They were (are?) the only official/sanctioned BMW tuner in the US. They''re the ACS of North America so nothing to sneeze at.

Mine has a Y pipe, resonator delete and custom backbox and it sounds sweet IMHO. Not too loud until you really stomp on it. You can do it in stages for sure, won't cost you much more. 135i back boxes might be difficult to find in NZ so you may have to be patient. I think you can also modify the 130i backbox for more efficiency and noise but you'd need to read up on that. I also think the stock box has a muffler flap, if you keep the box get that flap disabled when you put the Y pipe in.

I wonder how hot that fire got? Anything less than about 600 degrees and I bet you could pop that VANOS unit off the front and it would be fine... there's an easy $1,200 once rebuilt.

? Jeepers, it could fall apart at that price and you'd still be getting a good deal. For somebody so inclined it would be a perfect project, buy for $4,265, spend another $4k on maintenance and good bits and you're away laughing with a near perfect car.

That's a very smart looking M5, it looks very straight and shiny.

Yep, stock and riding too low but that's to be expected with age. The thread Chris is referring to is this one (I think): https://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=80208 Assuming you don't want coilovers the next best option is the Birds B1 setup I think but that can be pricey. I understand the best price/performance option is the Bilstein B12 kit (shocks and springs). I don't like the idea of the Koni setup with stock motorsport springs because of the springs but they are slightly adjustable. Nice looking car, my favourite standard wheels for this and I'd get them in a heartbeat if they were 17's. Welcome.

lololololol ?

Had to look that up, never heard of "MILV's" before... and still not entirely sure what they are! ? Perhaps if I ever need to replace the valve cover gasket (again - it was done last year by a PO).

So classic... and yeah, those 16's are yuck. Can do you a set of polished genuine 7.5" style 24's that'll look heaps better if you want. Can add NS2R semi-slicks or Pirelli road tyres for extra.