M3AN

Cool, I can check on Wednesday, are you (potentially) interested? If so I'm happy to hold them for you specifically.

But if you believe the sales pitch you shouldn't need anything on your ceramic coating for years right? Putting a sealant (wax) on a sealant (nano coating) shouldn't be required unless the first sealant has degraded. This ceramic coating industry needs to go out of business and the only way that will happen is if enthusiasts revolt and spread the word. It's snake-oil. If it were as good as it's claimed to be all manufacturers would apply it at the factory.

And I have style 24 fronts (4 of them) if you can find some rears.

I got a used set for my M3 from @BM WORLD, they were far from perfect but less than $100 and far better than the ones that came out. The alternative options were all really expensive.

I'm thinking 4 years... happy to look for markings, will it just be a date or some type of code do you know?

Hi there, These are surplus to requirement so I'm putting them out there cheap. Two track sessions and no punctures or blisters. Wear is pretty even across the face and there's 5+ mm of tread left on all four. $400

Nice, and welcome! ? You also have BMW Performance pedal covers, shift knob and boot... that's a good $500 at retail if not more. Can't see the handbrake boot, does it have white stitching? If so that's also BMWP. If it's a genuine BMWP backbox then it's worth a mint but, as Chris says, you may wait a while for a NZ buyer at proper value. Are the tips original to the box? They seem to stick out further than I'd expect. @qube might have some insight on that. Wheels have been changed from standard and the calipers have been changed or painted, some close-up would be good. Another thread that might make you spend more money... ^ and that's a pic of Chris' exhaust and dog... not sure how the forum chooses pics lol. ??

Hooking it up to BMW DIS via an ADS interface is the only way I believe. If you're ever up in Auckland we can try on my rig if you like. Alternative is to take it to BMW but they'll charge a criminal price.

It's one of the best examples out there so GLWS, I think you'll need lots of it at that price though. ?

Not dish or concave but I have a set of polished M3 Style 24's in 17" x 7.5" - feel free to PM me if they're of interest.

There might be some truth in that, it's easier to be critical of people you're not in close social proximity to, or unlikely to meet. Just spend 5 mins on any social media platform to prove that. But I don't think that's the crux of it in this case. Most "flippers" that I recall us being critical of are those that are trying to on-sell to an unsuspecting mug for above market value and that's certainly not the case here. Anyone who buys an E39 M5 in 2020 is going in with their eyes wide open. I don't think we're regularly bagging on people that are selling vehicles for a fair market price, regardless of what they paid for them. We also need to accept the risk Brad is taking. If there was only 1 buyer at $20k, how many will there be at $30k? He may have to wait a substantial amount of time. He''s had more cars than I've had bananas, he loves it, he lives it, power to him. A mate of mine bought a CSL for ~$50k, recently sold it for ~$100k... as @NZ BMW asks, how long did he have to own it to make that fair to the new owner?

The only negative thing I see here is that I didn't pick it up for $20k... to do exactly what Brad's doing. My loss. I hope he sells it for close to what he's asking, I think it's probably worth around that. It's not like he saw it in a back yard and conned an old granny out of it, it was advertised publicly and he purchased it publicly at a price the seller was happy with. Perhaps the seller really needed $20k cash quick and didn't care what it was worth. We can't know. That Brad knows what it's probably worth is hardly a crime. I think most of the butt-hurt comes from people realising, after the fact, that they missed out on a killer deal. If you knew the margin on wine at a supermarket would you stop buying it? Not if you liked wine. GLWS.

Do the rev's just drop to idle when it happens? I realise you believe it may be the clutch/gearbox side but it would still be worth removing the accelerator peddle and check/clean/test the fly-by-wire cable/plug. It's easy to do and might show something up.

If you "suggest" something that's counter to conventional wisdom it's helpful if you substantiate that suggestion. Martin's poke was likely to be because nothing needs proof on FB because everything there is true so 'just believe it eh!'. It's my understanding that unless you change the master cylinder or the frequency of the ABS sensors then "modern ABS" won't make a real-world difference unless the system was poorly calibrated in the first place. Having said that I'm keen to understand more so if you do have further reading please share.

Interested in the results on this one, do keep us posted. ?

Ah, that's something I didn't know... "eLSD" was standard on the E8x 135... same thing or different do you know?

And there's nothing on the build sheet so nothing fitted from "factory" as per the ad. Edit: but still, tidy, different manual for $8k isn't bad!

I'm keen to understand more, where are you sourcing those suggestions?

That's a huge difference. Are you suggesting that's the difference between stock brakes and a BBK? If not, I'm lost, what's the relevance?

Personally, I'd justify it on looks. And I think that's just fine because they look way better than stock brakes. And the half meter of course. ?

What am I looking at? ?

Bigger brakes don't help you stop shorter in a one-off situation, stopping distance is purely related to the friction between the tyre and the road. If your brakes can overcome that friction (lock the wheel), which all passenger cars can do easily, then brake size is not a factor. A BBK is for more effective cooling and more consistent stopping. After 5-10 quick, hard (ABS) stops a quality BBK should perform noticeably better than standard sized brakes. Because of the initial clamping force and lower pedal effort a BBK may feel 'stronger' (shorter stopping distance) but that's just a physiological trick. Some good (and some not-so-good) explanations here: https://www.quora.com/Will-putting-bigger-brake-rotors-and-pads-on-your-car-make-the-car-stop-faster-or-not-necessarily.

Kia ora and welcome. I agree with the above comment, looks nice, especially in this colour.

Yeah, sorry, I thought your comment about the roof rail bits was about solenoids... "naa, they can't be removed"... lol, my bad. ? I'm surprised those roof bits aren't just clip in? Surely they can be removed - to install racks etc? Therefore replaceable?

It's only a theory at the moment, and although I'd bet on it, doesn't mean you should. Don't spend any more money just yet. I'm pretty sure there are members here from Wellington that have the correct BMW software to run a VANOS test for you, and probably look at 'shadow codes' in case there's relevant information there. Unfortunately a dealer or independent will charge you an arm and a leg for that. Yell for help in the Wellington section perhaps, you might get rescued? Swapping the 'noids over is easy... don't change the seals for testing but if you isolate the problem then replace the o-rings on final install. Edit: if you do this, make sure you clean the exterior surfaces thoroughly before you remove the solenoids, unlike in the video.