M3AN

Very cool, the original Japanese "supercar".

This was on Discovery Turbo last weekend, worth a watch - it'll probably pop up again on the same channel some time soon. Still prefer Ed though.

I'd do a little more isolation first. Get a mate, have them 'bounce' the rear end whilst you run and slide around listening carefully to the general area that the noise is coming front. Small to large sound over a very short period of time normally indicates total component failure so do take care if you're driving it. Post back when you have a more specific idea (high/low, left/right, rear/rear wheels/further forward etc, etc).

It's probably that secret CSL 'vert that only a very few know about. Close by, I should take it for a test drive, I'm sure I'll be impressed. ?

I don't have a dove insert but you could perhaps reuse your one... I have a selection of cards, sold in pairs.

And if you do want coupe cards I have a bunch without inserts. None perfect but most are serviceable.

In my experience nobody will touch them... I hope you have better luck but I tried many and they pretty much said they didn't want the job. One place said they'd do it but were too embarrassed to quote it would be so high! What colour leather? You'll have a much better chance if it's black but you're probably better off looking for a used set from one of the parts places around. If the card itself is damaged (it needs "reshaping"?) then that'll be a bitch to fix. IIRC cards off a sedan or coupe (more likely but I'm not sure) will fit but the grab handles are different.

Invitation to treat + offer + acceptance = binding contract, consideration (edit: payment) is unnecessary. The original deal was a legally binding contract if the original buyer cares that much to pursue it.

OCD aren't unique, all places I've heard of charge a ridiculous amount for it. Yes, prep is critical but if you've just paid $750 for that, you shouldn't be paying another $750 for $40 of product. You could always get some place to detail your car and then apply the coating DIY and save $700. Check on eBay, sort by price and have a bit of a laugh, they have all brands there, some even selling the same product for $400 that others are selling for $40. I suspect they all come from the same, or similar factories, in China. Yes, they are hydrophobic, yes they repel liquids for a while and yes, they're not worth $750. As for scratch resistance, 9H or 10H is bug level scratches, not stone level scratches. They do make your car or wheels or whatever easier to clean for a while though. I'd love to be convinced some are worth 10 or 20 times more than others, with science, not marketing BS.

Yep, spill the beans, tell the story. And why do people on a public forum want/try to stay private? It's hardly a cocaine deal lol.

Thanks. BMW NZ should have eluded to that in their release, why allow suspicion to even develop? "E46 BMW's sold new in New Zealand do NOT have the airbags affected by the Au recall. However, if you have a JPN imported e46 (!!) then...???" And why don't these releases come for AG anyway? It's hardly a "local" problem.

Looks like a nice property, car is timeless, nice example.

Yeah, they did - I can only assume this applied to vehicles that haven't had the recall service completed... although the article doesn't make that explicit.

I understand what you're saying and get the Jatco analogy but since NZ e46's were in the original airbag recall I think we can safely assume they're the same airbags as in the AU vehicles. I'm pretty sure they're all Takata airbags. Unless I'm entirely wrong (it's been known to happen ?) then BMW NZ's statement is a bit irresponsible because it reads "don't panic, carry on".

"BMW New Zealand has confirmed that "vehicles purchased from BMW New Zealand are not affected by the current safety recall in Australia."" Hmm... because they have different airbags? I think not BMW NZ...

How good and what for? I think you'll struggle to find a manual, in any condition at all really, for $4k. I have a mechanically sound with heaps of new bits (see link in my signature) 328i, sunroof coupe that might be up for sale soon but it's an auto and I'd be looking for up to $3k for it. Factor in a manual conversion and you could possible get away with $4.5k.

Are you sure? ? Whilst I agree the price is good, they're only an "upgrade" if your existing brakes overheat regularly... and I'd suspect that's not the case on a 116 /118. They're probably a better deal for somebody that needs to replace their rotors and pads on a 130i for cheap (assuming they've got life in them), or so you can get the calipers refurbed and powder coated whilst keeping your car on the road. If they're still available if/when I get a 130 then I'd grab them at this price for that reason. But certainly not as an upgrade for another E8x. Remember, with the exception of overheating, your tyres are the limiting factor, not the brakes. Chris' car won't be stopping any faster with his new brakes but it will stop more consistently when repeatedly leaning on them heavily over a short time-span (e.g. track use), however often that happens. If anyone needs more brake for the street then they should just change their pads, BBK's are really for aesthetics only on a street car (which is still a valid reason for having them IMO). Unfortunately these don't look anything like a BBK so that reason is out the window. Don't get me wrong, $150 is sharp, they're just not really an upgrade for anything.

M3 badge for the trunk? ? Not sure how much they cost but I got a BMW golf umbrella once, that's quite cool. perhaps it doesn't need to be for the actual car, BMW have some cool caps and shirts (not sure on price though). Keyrings also, valve caps... etc?

I got passed by a scooter on the left, on a one lane (each way) road. idiot. But yes, in theory a cyclist passing a car should do so on the right unless there's a marked bike lane, if that's too complicated or risky then they shouldn't pass. Bike riders (electric or otherwise) not looking for or seeing indicators have a death wish.

If you're anticipating needing to make emergency manoeuvres in the wet then get directional tyres, they'll be less expensive and better for that than the comparable asymmetrical. Scott, unless you hear your (current) tyres squealing, or feel them losing traction, you probably want a mid-range tyre from any reputable brand and within that range select by cost. I'd think a Bridgestone RE050A would probably be more than enough and it should be less expensive than a R003/S00x. Look them up on Hyperdrive and check other tyres around the same price. If you want to see more commentary or reviews then tirerack.com (US) has lots.

So I drove one on Sunday (thank you) at the Akl coffee casual and paint me impressed. I'm not sure I like the look but I found little to dislike about the experience. It's not a race car but it wears that on its sleeve, that's not what it's for. It's quite quick, feels ultra modern and is almost silent. It's not as flash as a modern Tesla (by a bit to be honest) but as a point-to-point commuter it would do just fine. And I have free charging at work, bonus. Regenerative braking takes some getting used to, I stopped short without even touching the middle pedal. ? But only at 30% of the new cost, because 90k is (was?) ridiculous. Oh, and crash it and it will be a write-off. ?

They look good and I agree, $600 is pretty sharp for most sizes, what size are they exactly?

I can do 4 x 7.5J polished genuine style 24's. Straight and no curbing although a couple could do with a buff to bring out the shine. Haven't thought of price yet tbh. Not sure how practical it might be to get them to the garden city though! Feel free to PM if you think it's worth following up.

Swann is also IAG, you'd be surprised what they're willing to cover and the options available. And IAG is actually the owner, not just the underwriter, they have different brands for different markets/risks/purposes.

No, don't get another charger. It's just that some chargers allow you to select the amount of amps to provide and occasionally using the lowest setting to charge will trickle it back to life. Give it a couple of full rejuvenation cycles (until the charger tells you it's finished), that's probably the best you can do at this stage.