Mike

no, still for sale

I'm pretty sure that rotor has had the centerbore machined out as it wouldnt fit over the hub otherwise, but it hasnt been re-drilled to 4x100. That caliper has a bracket to attach it to the strut. was a while ago when that photo was taken, there are more recent photos about somewhere.

^that is the issue, more powerful cars go faster. and the following equation (Ek = mv2/2) tells that a car going 120kph vs a car (same mass) going 100kph will generate 44% more heat if they both stop completely. Caliper is still unsprung weight though. ideally you have the smallest disc you need, and a nice alloy caliper, again no bigger than it needs to be. I still do come to think of it. I think they were 288x25mm rotors, (plenty big enough for most, and modified to suit e30) and 535i calipers. Still got it all along with brackets, new pads and new lines sitting in a shed somewhere if someone wants to make it work. Beauty pf this setup is that it takes up much less space behind the wheels. I think even 15's will fit.

^I'd assume so, but thats getting behind what most would consider a 'basic' caliper/rotor upgrade? I'm surprised non-hubcentric rotors didnt give you any shimmy, and still recommend that people make sure they are though. I like the slip on spacer option, seeing as its all got to be certed anyway. And this means you're far more likely to find wheels that will clear 4pot calipers Last bit of advice for the OP - find a certifier and talk to them about what you want to do before spending any money. I'd hate to hear that you've bought a heap of bits only to find they wont work. There are heaps of considerations when upgrading brakes, particularly when there isn't really any OEM bolt on upgrade for E30's. (ignoring 5 stud here)

I wouldn't even bother with non-hubcentric rotors, almost certain it will shimmy. E30's are bad enough for this as it is with rotors that fit properly. unless you go with custom rotors there are very few OEM items that work, you need the right centerbore and pcd (these can sometimes be modified to work), offset also needs to be right, too low and you wont have caliper clearance, too high and you'll hit the ball joints. Lastly you want them bigger than standard items. Unless you have connections you're easily looking at $200 per rotor here. Depending on what cylinder size you go with you may also need to upgrade you MC and/or get a bias valve. I'd also given any second hand calipers a freshen up with new seals. All this plus what cam mentioned and it does get expensive very quickly.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=8958

bump. price lowered. almost giving it away.

IMO its more novelty factor having an S14, heaps of engines out there that offer better bang for buck

^ bloody tough call between imola or LeMans...

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry347827 go on. you know you want to...

^ remember that profile changes with width too.

I had both dead pumps and split hoses on mine. HellBM supplied a new pump but new hoses from BMW were a bit of a rip so I went down to the hardware shop and found suitable hoses and joiners and fixed it myself for $20 or so

^ all good points but its still a bit boring isn't it? That said I brought a silver car because everything else was right but would have preferred almost any other colour

3 weeks left being Site Engineer/Site Manager for a construction company. Unemployed after that.

should be able to josh, all comes down to where you set the plates up. If you center it over existing hole you will have both positive and negative adjust, though it will be limited. If you set the plates lower than the factor hole (assuming you mount them inboard) then you will have bigger range to increase camber, I'd draw a diagram if I could be bothered.

nice, they need something for the poms or paddys though.

RB25DET maybe a little small, I had one similar on my M10 1.8l and it was boosting plenty early enough, positive pressure before 2500rpm disagree with this, as above it only confuses things. and unless things have changed on modern engines all FPR's I'm aware of are vacuum controlled

4.45 is damn low, how about a 4.27 for $50? in lower hutt

hopefully its gone by then but will get in touch if it doesnt. I'm happy to keep it until I get what I want for it. Cheers for the other comments. I'll be pretty annoyed if it doesnt sell close to my asking price, so much car for the money.

bump.

M52B28, and then supercharge it if it was within the budget. LS1 would be very cool but $10k would be pushing it i think, too much custom work. the yank motor? or S50B32?

2000 Silver 540i Motorsport for sale. I'm second owner in NZ, car was imported from Japan in 2008 I think but will need to check that. Full motorsport kit - Bodykit, staggered 17" Msport wheels, shadowline trim, black headlining, 'M' badged sills, multifunction sports steering wheel, heated black leather electric sports seats, Msport II suspensions, and diff may also be shorter ratio. Other options/toys are 16:9 widescreen tv, OBC, electric rear blind, autodim rearview mirror, 5 spd steptronic auto, memory seats, steering wheel and mirrors, glass sunroof, climate control, air con, rain sensing wipers, DSC, ABS etc. SD card player in place of CD stacker, still have this too. 10" sub fitted, can be negotiated if new owner wants this. I've had the car almost 8 months and since owning have had the AC re-gassed, new rear brake pads and rotors, a coil replaced, and it has brand new Bridgestone RE001 tyres. Its also got balance of Protecta 24 month mechanical warranty. Spare key too, though not a remote. Its done 180xxxkm and is in very good nick considering the km's. There are things like paint chips on bonnet, broken cupholders, etc. WOF approx 1month old, only needed rear brakes replaced. All electrics work as they should, with exception of jap radio and satnav. TV gets all stations depending on location. Car is awesome to drive, dont want to sell but needs to be done to fund OE. Old photos but not a lot has changed... $12000 - and it pains me to list it at this but it needs to go. Ph 027 460 1706 or PM me any queries.

very cool, nice mods too

you have an e30 -I dont see a problem with this? Google maps is normally pretty reliable though so its probably right

^ That was considered, i think? Reason that wont work is that the air hasnt under gone compression yet so will be at ambient temperature, or the same as the air cooling the intercooler.