Haitoman

I bought a Peugeot 206GTI (2001) for my wife to commute in. We've had it over 12 months and its done almost 200kms. It's rattly and chews a bit of oil but seems to be really reliable. I have only had a windscreen wiper problem and a fan heater problem, both of which were not worth worrying about. These cars have an issue where if the battery terminals are loose the car runs like crap so once I had that sorted it has been a good runner. Keep an eye out for the larger horsepower model if you are buying a GTI.

So the UK M3 forums are always beating on about the CSL rev matching update and the associated DME flash. Has anyone here in NZ had any experience with having these done, and is there anyone in Wellington who has done them?

^This...

I see it has done 140km not the originally stated 59k. That will affect the price a bit.

Fair enough...good luck with your sale OP.

Under normal circumstances you are absolutely correct, ie. meets Section 4 of LVV suspension requirements. However the point I was trying to make is there are dozens and dozens of 'must and must nots' in that standard that a buyer cannot be 100% sure about, and this presents risk when looking at paying top dollar for an older modified car. Below is an example from the suspension standard for what I'm trying to say. It's all very well to say the mods meet Section 4 but what about the rest of these requirements that a buyer may only find out about when an insurance assessor finds a problem and wiggles out of paying up. If someone wants absolute top dollar for a classic car it usually pays to return it to stock or have it LVV certified for a few hundred bucks to give a potential buyer peace of mind that all is well with the mods. Geometry 2.3(7) Moving components and systems fitted to low volume vehicles which are affected by suspension travel, must not be detrimentally affected at extremes of suspension travel by exceeding the operating limits specified by the equipment manufacturer, including: (a) binding or excessive angularity of ball-joints, swivel-joints or constant velocity-joints; or ( binding or excessive angularity of steering arms or tie rod ends; or © binding or shortening the normal working life of driveshaft universals. 2.3(8) Low volume vehicles which have undergone significant changes to the suspension system must feature no abnormal suspension geometry, and be aligned so as to provide satisfactory handling characteristics, and ensure against excessively shortened tyre life. 2.3(9) Wheel-rims fitted to modified production low volume vehicles which retain the vehicle manufacturer’s original wheel hub assemblies must not have the wheel-rim centre offset by any more than 20% of the total wheel-rim width. Springs 2.3(10) Springs and shock-absorbers fitted to low volume vehicles must be: LVVTA Low Volume Vehicle Standard 195-00(00) (Suspension Systems) Page 7 of 12 © Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association (Inc.) 1 December 2000 (a) of a size and rate which is appropriate for the weight and intended use of the vehicle to which they are fitted; and ( in the case of coil springs, of a sufficient rate so as not to fully compress upon full suspension travel. Heavy-duty and height-changing coil springs 2.3(11) Low volume vehicles fitted with coil springs must: (a) be fitted with shock absorbers which are able to satisfactorily control spring energy; and ( where a substantial increase in spring rate occurs, be reinforced as necessary in the areas of the body or chassis or sub-frame structure on which the increased loads being transmitted are likely to cause fracturing or failure. 2.3(12) Coil springs fitted to low volume vehicles that reduce the suspension travel and, as a result, the ride height of the vehicle, must be proportionately increased in stiffness rate so as to ensure against contact between the underside of the vehicle and the road surface during normal vehicle operation when fully laden. 2.3(13) Coil springs fitted to low volume vehicles must be designed in such a way that the ends of the springs, whether of a plain, plain and ground, closed, or closed and ground configuration, are shaped to match the surfaces against which they seat, both top and bottom.

I too wish you well with the sale but you just can't bugger around with vehicle geometry or install suspension mods and expect a buyer to stump up with big cash - the risks are too great unless they know the car. The first question most insurers ask is usually about non-factory modifications and unless re-certified the mods you describe would void insurance in a major crash. A serious buyer for that cash would want to know if the mods are certified so you need to state that up front if you want that kind of cash. Nice looking car though and the km's are a definite selling point.

Oh yes they will...the numbers available always dictate how collectable they will be. eg. 2004 M3 15 registered in NZ 2005 M3 13 registered in NZ 2006 M3 2 registered in NZ Add maybe a small handful of imported facelift M3's in period 2012 to 2014 when they became affordable, with only slim chances of any more being imported due to emission standards. A rough guess would be less than 40 post 2004 M3's nationwide. That points to them being very sought after in anyone's book...

This will sell for 10 thousand plus - there is double that in good parts.

The only obvious difference on city streets will be cosmetic as there is not an awful lot between them in a straight line (not that I've driven a M36 M3).

I'm sure we can arrange something...I'm in Paekakariki. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

May I ask why...noting that I am also in Kapiti.

Heat related misfire = cracked solder joints

Mine were available for inspection - you only needed to ask...

Yes, needed 100%...it forms a gasket seal between mating surfaces. Usually any brand name FIPG silicone RTV designed for use as a gasket in a high temperature environment will be just fine. Just be aware that there are rare instances where a non-acetic curing FIPG is needed - I think 3Bond is non-acetic so maybe it must be used in your case. NZ Gaskets in Avondale are the agents for 3Bond products and can advise an equivalent if necessary.

Click it twice...

Yeh well jokes on you... 720P is HD

E46 M3's pre-Mar 2005 are Euro III. As such, under normal circumstances you won't get one into NZ. However, if you go to the Special Interest Vehicles category it is possible to bring one in if you do your research. Euro IV did not exist as a standard until Jan 2005 but it can be shown that 2004-05 model in most cases meets Euro IV figures except for one gas which goes slightly over. I have written a successful justification with all the details necessary to make an application, but you need the approval from LTS before you purchase - just in case you get refused. I can provide a redacted copy to anyone who is seriously interested. They can be a bit messy underneath but as many parts are aluminium they clean up really well. I'm happy to take pics of mine to show you how good they come up.

I thoroughly recommend you buy 100% stock unless you can be sure the person that fitted them knows what they are doing. I say that because they are often tracked and some common mods may compromise your safety. SMG pump, vanos etc. are all part of the M3 deal that we sign up to and if you are unlucky then you need to put your hand in your pocket. Having said that my M has done about the same as that one and has no issues at all so I'm sure you will be okay.

If you get a puncture you will be very thankful for run-flats. Reputable tyre shops won't repair them as they cannot guarantee how they were driven after the puncture and can't guarantee their repair (in case the side wall is damaged) will not be blamed if a repaired tyre does fail. They are covering their ass. All is not lost as long as you are responsible after getting a puncture. Drive slow and only for as long as you need before getting more air into it. Rubber repair plugs you can purchase from places like Repco have been known to work on small nail holes but recommend a tyre shop to do the job properly.

Hence my post above. There does not seem to be a definitive source of information to find out whether some of us are affected.

Makes sense I guess. So do we just sit and wait for a notice in the mail based on VIN or do we ring them up again?

....and to change the subject, check out No. 3 below. Did we get told about this in NZ? http://www.theaa.com/allaboutcars/recalls/recalls.jsp?modelID=3+Series&modelName=3+Series&makeName=BMW&makeId=A4

It occurs to me that BMW NZ are not taking this worldwide recall at all seriously. yes there has been mention in the media but I haven't seen anything that I would call official. I rang JG and was told that they would eventually get around to it and I would be advised. If you look at the following US alert it is obvious that many of us 2000-2006 3 and 5 series owners will be affected and I for one would like to know when I am going to be told that it is possible that I will get peppered with shrapnel if the airbags deploy - even in a low speed crash. If anyone has an update...please post. http://www.nhtsa.gov/About+NHTSA/Press+Releases/Vehicle-owners-with-defective-airbags-urged-to-take-immediate-action

Went to the recent Autoclique meet in Wellington where John and Tim demonstrated CG products. I bought a few together with a snow foam lance and put them to work today on the M3. I've never used the Karcher pressure washer on the car before, and now I'm wondering why. The foam pre-wash was magic and a quick citrus wash and gloss and rinse left no water marks to speak of...What a difference. A quick buff with V7 detailer and I'm very happy with the finish.