allan

Thanks Jon, Paul looking further it is a S-Drive 18i VN74888 assembly April 2010 just collecting info on them at the moment.

No sure just saw a x1, 2010, 2tlr, auto, 29,200k Japan import for around 20,000 and got me interested

If vacuum controlled one or both could have sprung a leak just a thought.

What would be a ball park figure for an X1 or X3 2010 under 30,000k's.

Andy just a stab in the dark does it have a bleed valve or pressure regulator valve of some sort at all on the fuel rail. If so this could be releasing the pressure built up by the pump and allowing the fuel to drain or siphon back.

These may have been posted before but still a great watch Happy New Year everyone. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-5-series-e28-e34-e39/833041-look-back-bmws-great-advertising-experiment-bmw-films.html?utm_source=pelican_bmwnewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20141230

Was bored so had a little look around and found, S62 I believe is the correct motor. Pelican in the states has them listed Luk Brand $763.25 part number 21212229190 M37, genuine BMW $1697.75 part number 21212229190 BOE. They are US dollars shown no doubt others will be available best of luck.

Merry Christmas one and all I received this from Pelican and thought others might enjoy. http://www.pelicanparts.com/swapmeet_pics/swapmeet_pic_index.htm?utm_source=pelican_porschenewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20141223. Would like to take the opportunity also to say thank you to those that have help me out over the past year especially the following. Ray and his son Sam fuel pump died while in Orewa very busy but came got me back on the road thanks again. Ray and Brent for checking the coding and shedding some light onto a few other issues Tom M3 power sorting out the transponder chips in the keys which fixed the locking problem very help full thanks All those that liked comments I made in various threads. Nice to know it is appreciated and was of some help in some way. Merry Christmas and a safe New Year Allan (tim 325)

Interesting site https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/530i/Oxygen-Sensor?year=2003&e=180&m=20&page=1 just check which currency they are in, NZ dollars or US makes a difference. Then the shipping on top of and if over the $400.00 you could have to add GST $$$$$$$.So why not spend 50-60 on a scan as Matt said could save you hundreds, give you peace of mind, a car to drive over the Christmas break not sitting in the garage.

Can't help with any practical experience with these sorry Pelican has Bosch and genuine listed 11781742050 oxy sensor before cat Bosh $91.00 Genuine $260.75 US Dollars 11781433940 sensor after cat Bosch $104.50 Genuine $260.75 Their are four in total two before and two after the cats. Would make sure that it is these before replacing as those prices it is not cheap. Best of luck

A saying comes to mind "more than one way to skin a cat" not sound work practice but solved you problem

your onto it my mistake.

Might give you a few leads to more info http://www.e46fanatics.com/faq/m54engine.html

Wow you want $65,000 when its four years old and done 350,000 k's

As others have said this is a left hand thread you need to tighten it to un do it. Don't wish to course any offense but some times things can get confusing and trouble is not far away then.

keep the whole thing clean and tidy helps in a whole lot of ways.

Just a thought is the firm who have your cylinder head able to pressure test it. Some times alley heads can be porous and under pressure this may reveal any faults if present. Just mention it due to you saying about the pin holes found in it and having to be welded. Also you may have a good coolant additive which is good to see but you still need to get the ph level right.

You seem to be going in the right direction with this project keep at it. Was beaten to it by Will but as he stated the cylinders and pistons look good a little carbon never hurts and no funny scores in the bores is even better. Would say a bit sus on those marks between the water passages and cylinders 3,5,6. could be nothing. As for the pin holes in the head and welding it is it cast iron or alley?. The reason I ask is it is important to get the correct ph balance with your coolant as this can course all sorts of trouble if not correct and alley heads are generally the first thing to get attacked.

Not sure if this has been posted before but could be messy for anyone if it fails. http://www.totalmcars.com/thread/2072/auto-dimming-mirrors-faults-fixes?page=1&scrollTo=32714

Any help www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2mM7woeTWQ if not above then maybe this http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/50779-a-guide-to-ebay-diamond-keys-for-ews3-e46-and-e39-relevant/

Hoooo say no more

Go on Neal an early Chrisy present plus it's only just down the road, chuckle

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/early-bmw-cars-2002-bavaria-etc/840900-1960-modern-bmw-700-sport-coupe-closer-look.html?utm_source=pelican_bmwnewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20141203

Re the euro BMW plate was lead to believe that Geoff Gray purchased the whole series.

She's a living night mare on New Zealand road's mate how many of these issues do you want? Sits in middle of right lane double carriage then turns left missed his turn off Truck and trailer pulls out of drive way turns right cutting off on coming traffic and 3 other vehicles in the lane he wants. When straightened up uses half of medium section to travel 80 odd mtrs to turn right into another drive way. Push bikers riding four abreast The old favorite travel at 88kph until you come to a passing lane and then speed up too 100 odd so no one can pass when lane finishes slow down to 88 again.