Allanw

Mine was less than that including GST from Milland.

Talk to Paul at Milland.co.nz. He got me OEM ones at a reasoanble price, and even got the right ones for the car There are quite a few different ones.

I don't mind the leather, it's the hideous brown dash, and the butt ugly car that ruin it for me. I's take an early 2000's Arnage anyday though Although.... I have a patient with a mid 90's Roller, and he broke a tail light.... cost him $2K!

eBay: NZ$30 for 2 sets, inc shipping NZ$84 for 2 sets of Alloy ones, inc shipping

There is a topic somewhere on a US forum, explaing how to do it without removing the lenses from the lights. Sounds like it takes longer, but they stay sealed at elast.

That's fair - I don't see a problem with the choice, only when someone doesn't have the co-ordination to opreate a manual, they aren't co-ordinated enough to drive. I don't think anyone was having a go at you or your daughter, just general comments. I can certainly see why you'd want an auto in Auckland anyway. I really do think that car is to be avoided with a barge pole. It's likely never been looked after "properly" and certainly will have something dodgy done to it. It's pretty ghey. I realise the E30 (you posted previous) probably isn't as "cool" for a young girl to have, but they aren't a bad choice. You're probably best with a 318i of some description, and the E36 Compacts aren't too bad for the money either. Resonably small and easy to park, still quite safe. If you are looking at 320i, you may as well get a 325i or 328i, otherwise stick with the 318i for economy. The 6's use very similar amounts of fuel anyway, sometimes the 320i uses MORE than the others.

Total agreement.

Just no.

Prolly looks a bit ricer anyway

Installed LCM IV (Light check module) to get rid of the annoying flashing/strobing when installing LEDs in the angel eyes. Put the LEDs back in too Also changed the service interval down to 1800L from 2350L. And set Angel Eyes to blink with the indicators (when the lights are off).

That would do OK in my VW van

Hmmm I can only assume the checkerplate front lip is for actually driving it with demolishing the bumper, and it comes off before you let anyone see it!

You can buy a scan tool pretty cheap, just have to fiddle getting it setup on a PC, and away you go. Handy for next time too

That's 35% of the ones that actually get taken to Glenn though - there's still all the ones that DON'T get taken in there or anywhere..... But hey - make sure you buy NZ new, eh?

Our 525i is manual, and especially after doing the Vanos seals, it's actually very quick - heaps of torque, but really goes once the revs are up, although an auto would clearly be slower and probably a bit average. I would VERY much prefer the 530i, but I have never seen a manual one over here. I'd say the 530i is a REALLY good choice too, espesially for the money. The V8s are awesome, but for everyday driving, the 3.0 isn't that far behind - it just lacks the instant grunt. The V8's are NOT hungry if you drive them nice, but they are a bit more to service (mate has a 540i Touring, and the engine I'd say any E39 you buy will probably want at least $1500 spare for little bits and pieces, if you want it to be right. As the milage gets up though, it could easily be more. Although that price range should get you a very good one. Like Jeffbebe, I reckon I've probably spent $3K on parts to get ours up to scratch, although I always do things as a set while it's all apart (complete rear suspension except shocks and upper mounts which are OK, and can be done easy later) is waiting in the box, it was about $1200 - bushes, ball joints, links and arms. Do the Vanos seals - regardless of milage, they were crap from new and faults have been reported as low as 50,000 on new replacement BMW Vanos units (they continue to use the same as original - I guess so they don't have to admit fault and pay for shitloads of unit replacements) - get the Beisan type seals, or similar.

HAHA! Had that inside the drive thru at Mitre 10 in my VW van when it had the original engine. EFI kept dumping in fuel, spark was shorting in the cap. There was an almighty bang (I was IN the van and my ears rung) and there were 4 staff members and 3 neighbours came out to see what it was. I sat in the car and pretended it wasn't me for a while... but then I had to own up when I couldn't start it and needed a push outside My exhaust survived, except that half way home, the tail pipe fell off Sorry dude - prolly best take them up on their offer ASAP.

Mint. I've got a nearly full tin of Newtech, that'll fix that right up.

I NEVER believed it. They sent us all emails (I work at the Hospital up here) stating it was cost plus 5%. I know they get rebates after certain $ values and all that, so their invoiced cost price isn't the "real" cost price, but by my calculations at the time, the 100% store sold it to me for nearly $400 less than the Harvey Norman "cost" price! The 100% store was still making money on it somewhere (and I don't begrudge them that!) Fisher and Paykel ended up replacing that oven on my request (eventually) under CGA, then when the new one was just as useless (turned off when using high temps, which I do for particular things, or self cleaning as per the manual ) they eventually refunded the price I paid - It only took a year! They didn't have any parts in stock and refused to air freight them in. When they did arrive, it was still faulty after the "repair". Hence my refund request. They would have had 2 used 900mm freestanders to sell off after that Moral of the Story. Fisher and Paykel is NO LONGER a reputable brand and will NEVER be purchased for my house again, even though it used to all be F&P. Their customer care is useless, which is bizare, as I deal with F&P MEDICAL who are amazing and do more than you expect all the time! I brought a Falcon Toledo 90 in the end, which retailed for nearly what I paid for my E39 Far superior though and no problems, plus I can run it at 250C for hours and it just keeps going, plus I can touch the door while it's doing it!

Hmmm... you may try emailing Yazoom. I think, under the Consumer Gaurantees act, THEY are in fact the retailer in the situation, so are obligated to ensure compliance with the Consumer Gaurantees act. You did purchase the service from them. If you tell them, they might put a bit more weight on the situation. I suppose, worst case, you'd like you bumper and $89 back at least. I'd aim for that, because if they're that dodgy, you may find your bumper disappears too. It hasn't been a super long time, but they did book it in, it's not like it was a "we;ll do it when we can squeeze it in" type deal.

It is the actual car, supposedly 40 years from first registration according to the LTNZ factsheet. In actuality, it appears to be changed from January in the year the car turns 40, according to the year it is registered as : i.e. My Beetle was manufactured 6th July 1972, first registered as a 1972 in New Zealand (brand new) but in early 1974 (It was imported and kept in stock until sold, which was reasonably common with VW's this late - its a German assembled 1200, not NZ or Aus). In Jan this year, it changed to "classic" status So, if you have a car registered as a 1973, next January, it will revert to classic Rego, which I seem to recall is about $110 give or take.

AND didn't look as jacked as an X5...

I use my local 100% store (Barells 100% Whangarei) - I can always talk to an owner if I need to. Plus, my last oven was $800 cheaper from them, than at Harvey Normans "cost + 5%" special sale for staff of the place I work... uh huh!

That is correct. My Beetle just turned 40 last week, and its been on cheap rego since the beginning on the year They all change over in January of the year they turn 40.

The odometer can also be coded to display in KMs instead of miles, so it all look legit.

Easiest to replace the slave and master together - both are cheap, and if one is gone, the other prolly isn't far behind, flush out the lines with some clean fluid before connecting the slave, in case there is some crap in it.