Allanw

I had a WHOLE CAR that weighed about that much!: It wasn't the lightest one I had either!

Yeah, possible, although I don't usually check myself, unless it's a classic or something really special. I wonder if someone offered them good money for it and they sold it out of trademe, or if they suddenly realised it was a bit cheap. It was a pretty good price. It might appear next week for a couple of grand more.

The drive belt will slip before anything bad happens. If you do it right, you shouldn't damage anything. If you miss with the hammer though.... it doesn't take much force, but the hammer blows have to be tidy and firm. If the spanner is too short, you'll be faffing about trying too hard to miss stuff with the hammer. it is a commonly used method.

I did it this way, easy - buy a nice long 32mm though. Mine is some old whitworth or somethig - fits great, but the hammer is AWFUL close to the fan shroud!

Although... if they didn't mention it... no-one would know. You wonder why they have said all that, when the avaerage seller on trademe seems to be far less honest - like the genuine low milage E30's (with an odometer that hasn't changed for 8 years, but it seems to work now....)

You only really need to remove the top bleeder hose (under the plastic cover along the top of the radiator), because you need to remove the fan shroud. It's all prety easy really, certainly don't need to loose the coolant anyway. When was the water pump last done though??? All the belts (both actually) and the tensioners need regular replacing, the bearings can crap out and take the plastic puuleys out and break things you don't want broken.

I dunno if the infrared ones are more or not. Mine was just WAY cheaper from Milland, than the Auckland dealer I phoned. (plus the dealer told me I couldn't get another part I wanted, so Milland got me one all in BMW packaging and everything)

Like this?

Yeah, it's a shame they have issues. I wonder why they insist on a 2.0 bar cap too, when all the jappas are happy with 0.9 or 1.1's. Makes me glad I have the high OBC with the coolant level warning and overheat warning - makes it much harder for the Mrs to ignore! Pays to check the viscous fan too. By the time the gauge moves up from normal on these (especially the M54 powered ones) they're already too hot. The expansion tanks have been known to pop too. Jeez makes it sound like a money pit!

It was about $320-ish, inc. It was a RF Diamond key. I have two remote keys, but you can get a manual key (only really good for emergencies coz of the cheap-ass locks) for about $180 I think. Probably good to have a really good look. They're far from the most expensive keys, but it's still money that coul dbe spent of the cheap-ass cooling system or worn out suspension

Mine was less than that including GST from Milland.

Talk to Paul at Milland.co.nz. He got me OEM ones at a reasoanble price, and even got the right ones for the car There are quite a few different ones.

I don't mind the leather, it's the hideous brown dash, and the butt ugly car that ruin it for me. I's take an early 2000's Arnage anyday though Although.... I have a patient with a mid 90's Roller, and he broke a tail light.... cost him $2K!

eBay: NZ$30 for 2 sets, inc shipping NZ$84 for 2 sets of Alloy ones, inc shipping

There is a topic somewhere on a US forum, explaing how to do it without removing the lenses from the lights. Sounds like it takes longer, but they stay sealed at elast.

That's fair - I don't see a problem with the choice, only when someone doesn't have the co-ordination to opreate a manual, they aren't co-ordinated enough to drive. I don't think anyone was having a go at you or your daughter, just general comments. I can certainly see why you'd want an auto in Auckland anyway. I really do think that car is to be avoided with a barge pole. It's likely never been looked after "properly" and certainly will have something dodgy done to it. It's pretty ghey. I realise the E30 (you posted previous) probably isn't as "cool" for a young girl to have, but they aren't a bad choice. You're probably best with a 318i of some description, and the E36 Compacts aren't too bad for the money either. Resonably small and easy to park, still quite safe. If you are looking at 320i, you may as well get a 325i or 328i, otherwise stick with the 318i for economy. The 6's use very similar amounts of fuel anyway, sometimes the 320i uses MORE than the others.

Total agreement.

Just no.

Prolly looks a bit ricer anyway

Installed LCM IV (Light check module) to get rid of the annoying flashing/strobing when installing LEDs in the angel eyes. Put the LEDs back in too Also changed the service interval down to 1800L from 2350L. And set Angel Eyes to blink with the indicators (when the lights are off).

That would do OK in my VW van

Hmmm I can only assume the checkerplate front lip is for actually driving it with demolishing the bumper, and it comes off before you let anyone see it!

You can buy a scan tool pretty cheap, just have to fiddle getting it setup on a PC, and away you go. Handy for next time too

That's 35% of the ones that actually get taken to Glenn though - there's still all the ones that DON'T get taken in there or anywhere..... But hey - make sure you buy NZ new, eh?

Our 525i is manual, and especially after doing the Vanos seals, it's actually very quick - heaps of torque, but really goes once the revs are up, although an auto would clearly be slower and probably a bit average. I would VERY much prefer the 530i, but I have never seen a manual one over here. I'd say the 530i is a REALLY good choice too, espesially for the money. The V8s are awesome, but for everyday driving, the 3.0 isn't that far behind - it just lacks the instant grunt. The V8's are NOT hungry if you drive them nice, but they are a bit more to service (mate has a 540i Touring, and the engine I'd say any E39 you buy will probably want at least $1500 spare for little bits and pieces, if you want it to be right. As the milage gets up though, it could easily be more. Although that price range should get you a very good one. Like Jeffbebe, I reckon I've probably spent $3K on parts to get ours up to scratch, although I always do things as a set while it's all apart (complete rear suspension except shocks and upper mounts which are OK, and can be done easy later) is waiting in the box, it was about $1200 - bushes, ball joints, links and arms. Do the Vanos seals - regardless of milage, they were crap from new and faults have been reported as low as 50,000 on new replacement BMW Vanos units (they continue to use the same as original - I guess so they don't have to admit fault and pay for shitloads of unit replacements) - get the Beisan type seals, or similar.