Allanw

Has Toyota EVER made a good diesel??? Our Hiace is a giant bag of arse! 2007 model, 10l/100 kms, mostly open road, mostly empty. It feels like it's about 1/2 the power of the Ford Tramsit loaner we had while the Toyota was in for repairs (again!).

This one Costs more, but has freight to nz They work great too Dads E30 dash is crack free!

Don't think that was me..... Might have been "Allan"???

Yeah, best you stop there, before everyone loses all respect for you Marmite and vegemite aren't the same thing, or equivalents / substitutes. They are very different, I use both! For example, marmite and jam on cheese, but vegemite and cream on pikelets I still have half a jar, but I've had to cut back on doctors orders (for something unrelated)

Awesome! Sounds a whole lot better!!! Well done.

It will need money spent on it, but then so does my E39, with under 120K. I'm just pricing up rear suspension bushes/arms etc as they are a bit knackered, and the wof guy wondered how the rear stabiliser bar was still attached because the links were so poked! If it's so much cheaper to make it worthwhile, go for it. Wear items such as suspension and brakes etc are going to need attention on any 10 year old bmw, almost regardless of milage, but engine and trans etc are more likely to need attention on a high miler. Maybe not soon though. Who knows. I was going to get a newer car than the E39, but when you look at them, even a 3 year old car with 80K on it can need a lot of parts - shocks, brakes, CV boots etc, so in the end, decided older with lower purchase price was better. The most reliable, cheapest car to maintain we have had was a 1995 Subaru Impreza which we sold at 320,000 - and only then becuase it was too awkward to gets kids into seats and had no safety gear. It only ever broke down once, when the fuel pump died (at 315,000) and only ever had a clutch, rack end and cambelts/tensioners/waterpump for repairs, the rest was brakes, CV boots, rack boots etc, which I class as wear items. It was an awesome car even with the huge kms. If you are worried about reliability/expense, a BMW isn't always the best choice, especially not an old one. With high kms. If it's really cheap, and you'rehappy to fix things that come up, go for it.

Click on "My COntrols" top, just right of centre, then on the left side, under "My Subscritions" you can veiw by topic od forum. Change the date range to "from the beginning" and there they all are! Unsubscribe those you want to.

There is the possibility of more to go wrong with a diesel. Turbos and all that jazz. Not so bad on a newer car that's been looked after, but older ones can give some big bills, and may be uneconomic to repair. Remember that a diesel car costs 4.5c a km on top of the fuel. 2000kms a month is another $90. Also, a E39 is never going to be really cheap to run, as they are heavy. Personally, I'd go petrol, especially if you were getting a cheaper car.

Sorry, I actually meant cluster! Low cluster has a picture of a car, High cluster has a text display and no car picture. You can unlock it and get it to show the coolant temp (I can't remember how now - Google) Otherwise you can get Glenn or someone to watch the real-time data to see what the operating temperature is via a scanner etc. The gauges on these things seem to be calibrated to show normal from actual temps of high 70's up to well over 100, so you could be running near the low end a lot, and it's burning more gas than needed. Even though the gauge shows it up to temp, it may be cold.

The actual revs of an engine have very little to do with it's fuel consumption - it's the load and efficiency of the engine at a given RPM that determine it's economy. Within a certain RPM range, the engine will use the same amount of fuel regardless of RPM, as long as the required power is the same (i.e. an engine producing 60hp at 2000 RPM may use the same amount of fuel as the same engine doing 3500 RPM but still only producing 60hp, but more or less RPM may actually increase consumption). An example is the Subaru engine I have in my VW transporter - the fuel usage is within about 5% from about 2000 to 4200 RPM at the same load, and outside of that range it increases. The time spent accelerating is when fuel is used the most. Do you have a high OBC? (with the text display?) You can use it to tell you the coolant temp - maybe the thermostat is stuck part open? It'll run richer when it thinks it's cold. I know our engines are different, plus I have manual trans, but we get about 10.2L/100kms "commuting" (no heavy traffic here, half is winding, hilly open road, 100k limits, but 35 and 55 corners etc) - although when the Mrs was away, I used only 9.5L/100kms doing the same commute. We have the climate air going all the time too. Just did a trip Whangarei to Tapeka (near Russell) with 3 adults, a child and the boot absolutely CRAMMED full, and two bags squeezed in the back seat, and got 8.0L/100kms on the way up, and after the return trip, was on 8.4L/100kms. Another time, just me in the car, Whangarei to Warkworth I got 7.0L/100kms sitting on 100, but just cruising along. That's on the OBC, but it's always within 0.1L/100 kms of what Fuelly.com shows based on my fillups. I think given the differences between the two cars, your open road figure is probably close to correct. The commute seems a bit hungry though! I have a friend who lives in glenfeild, and drives to silverdale each day (pretty good trafic wise), and local groceries etc driving on weekends (with a HEAVY foot!) in a 540i touring and gets about 14-15L/100kms. On a trip, he got it down to about 9. He seriously has a heavy foot though! Full throttle up to the speed limit (ish) usually, and was only getting about 15K from his tyres (dunlop sport max or something). I'd have thought that even with a typical Auckland commute, that a 528i would be getting 12 to 14 without trying too hard. Even 17 seems high - better off with a 540i if that's the case!

'nother local! Sweet! Looks nice! My Father has a nice '90 E30 325i SE manual in Glacier Blue that you may have seen around too.

Being charged with fraud would ruin your life too. Plus... You try claiming for a loss/damaged item when the customs declaration says US$50 is the total value of the shipment. They're not going to pay out the $700 you spent... I've ordered parts from Germany and had them Shipped by German Post, and the NZ$700 value wasn't picked up for customs or GST. Have done it twice now. If you use DHL etc, they have their own customs brokers, so will sting you for whatever they can. I always just assume I will have to pay it, and it's a bonus if I don't get charged

Sweet, so you can fly me over my crop then?

Yeah, that's me too. I'm Uber-Geek! That's how I found the oddball job! I have 3 lasers at home :-)

Buy Bosch or Wurth real rubber ones. (I used to be a Wurth rep, so am a bit biased!) The steel backed Wurth ones are brilliant! Quiet, streak free etc! Cheap shitty ones are cheap and shitty. Unless they're from Ripco - then they're expensive and shitty. Bosch from Partmaster are a good price.

I work in Clinical Engineering / Biomedical Department at the hospital. If you break your rectal light or your genital wart freezing gun needs a service, let me know :puke: I can test your water for Endotoxins... Or service your anaesthetic machine..... Anyone? Hello? I did once use a $24,000 pressure meter to calibrate my boost gauge

Theory: Correct. Reality: Good luck! Have you tried finding mention of it in the road code? You DO (should) have a clear lane to enter, and the other car has to turn into the same lane they were in. if they had two turning lanes, you couldn't do it.

Same Same.

Haha! Enjoy. Remember to complain about going too fast too.

Facelift E30's have a connector under the intake manifold which can have issues - clean it out with a good contact cleaner and sheild. Dad's E30 would misfire just once very rarely, but after cleaning that plug, it's never done it again - that was probably 8 or 10 years ago. The plug in a largish (15 to 20mm???) round lpig, not entirely dissimilar to the large round firewall mounted one. Worth a try if nothing else.

Haha - Not just me!

All stock is probably fine, from what you said earlier. It's certainly easier

Put it on trade me, and offer to swap it for a standard setup. Someone will swap it all over for you. Then buy a new air filter element and you're back to standard.

Better update your sig. Be aware that the LED may strobe when the LCM checks the bulbs. My LEDs on the E39 angel eyes did (I've fitted a relay for the moment to diconnect them from the circuit when not switched on) Tail and brake lights can trigger warnings if they are old too - the filiments become high resistance and trigger the warnings - justhad it on the E39.

Most of the time, people fit them fr the noise. There's not usually any other benefits anyway.