Allanw

Pick-a-part

Coding stuff is pretty easy :-) I think the cable mod is only for voltage detection, required for some procedures (new modules etc). If you get to that point, you can always mod it then - I think it's a jumper wire soldered onto 2 contacts. nothing tricky.

D'Oh! If you don't know how to do it, DON'T!

I'd like to be more help, but I haven't heard of lifter problems in them. What temp was the oil at? A couple of laps probably wouldn't have it up to 100C yet (it takes a lot longer than coolant to heat up).

Hmmmmm... AliExpress success rate for me so far... 50%. Getting refunds is painful at best 50% of the time, total value spent NZ$2K. Best be on first name basis with the customer service rep at your Credit Card company!

Not to talk you out of buying goodies... and I dunno how different yours is to mine, but on the E39 to delete the clutch delay valve, I just removed the valve entirely, and very slightly rebent the coiled hard-line to go directly into the fitting, instead of the valve.

Someone probably googled at and 97 says E39. It's actually a 95 model and was made in 95. You could get a 96 model that was made in 1995 too though :-)

Milland can get Genuine BMW too (Saved me about NZ$100 on a genuine key amongst other things)

Those temps are OK. The 6's run cooler than the 8's. The ecu only drops the engine temp when the parameters are met - ie load increases etc. It probably does run it hot at idle, because the hotter it runns, the more economical it is. If you were to suddenly boot it up the road, you'd probably see it drop (or try to!). Keeping an eye on the temp gauge doesn't help much in these... keep the KTMP up on the OBC. You don't have to unlock the OBC every time - I just enter "service" mode (secret menu) and enter test 7 straight away, and it works fine (unless you disconnect tha battery or code the car etc, in which case the code has to be put in to unlock it.)

It's a bastard having to turn the roundels on each wheel everytime you park somewhere... Need the Rolls Royce rotating items

Basically, pissing about with anything in the standard INPA/NCS/DIS setups you buy on ebay etc, aren't going to do anything major. I did it all by trial and error, and worst case, you code the whole car in NCS back to factory and start fiddling again. I'm assuming you want to fiddle with the E39, coz the E36 is really boring as far as nerd/geek types are concerned There's a bunch of tutorials on US forums, after reading a few, and running it up on your car, you start to feel pretty comfortable. I'm a geek, but I've changed the LCM in our car to an E53 one, changed the VIN and mileage to match the car, altered settings to stop bulb warnings (LED angeleye bulbs etc), altered the litres of fuel used before the service is required, fitted a brand new ABS module and coded it etc. I didn't know how to do any of it a few years back, and I haven't destroyed anything (Yet... I haven't used WINKFP, but will need to if I have to fit a 3.0 in place of the 2.5 ). I don't even use a backup power supply... though I do hook up the 2A trickle charger... because the battery in 11 years old The basic stuff as far as cool settings go, can be done in either BMW Scanner (another program and cable), or using the BMW software, in NCSExpert. There is a program someone made called NCSDummy - it makes setting changing easy, and is a good place to start. I'd start to get lost if I was doing anything really heavy, but the software only lets you do stuff that's pretty safe. The heavy stuff involves serious reprogramming, where the usual software just allows you to alter parameters or settings.

Also, the electrickery to run the electric fan comes from the batetry, and the battery is charged from the alternator... which is a parasitic drag... Plus the fan is only really a drag when it's locked. PS - the newspaper test ONLY works if the viscous coupling is hot enough to cause the clutch in it to lock - which isn't that much of the time TBH (the V8's seems to do it more than 6's)

I think they use the actual total number of reported vehicle stolen.... so the interceptor wouldn't show up, as there is only one. However, if they had 10,000 torneos insured, and 100 were stolen and they had 1000 accords insured, and 100 were stolen, they's be first equal... but the Torneo would still actually be less likely to be stolen, because statistically 1% of Torneos would be stolen, and 10% of Accords... Of ALL organisations with "Automobile" in their name, the AA is probably the LEAST knowledgable about cars. Subaru was the most imported car for a LOT years, so it's not surprising they were seen to be "often stolen" - if there's twice as many of them, that would double the rate as a start! I'm sure a LOT of Torneos were imported too.

Her sh*t was on your car... throw it inside and drive off. It clearly wasn't hers, or it would have been on HER car Dump it in a river. Sorted.

The bushes can look fine, but be poked, and highway is harder on them than around town. It they aren't changed already, they're probably not like new ones at all. Our E39 bushes looked fine (at 12 years and 115K, though the shocks were 100% rooted), but I rebuilt the entire front end (used powerflex bushses) and transformed the car - it's really tight and smooth now. I've not owned an E36, and I realise the E39 is a lot more complex suspension wise, but if it were me, I'd not bother with "Goodies" until the chassis foundations were sorted. Might turn out you don't need any goodies (even though they're more interesting ) Full service histroy doesn't mean a car has had all required work done either - it just means it went in for the "recommended" oil changes/inspection etc - additional work can always be declined by the owner, though I'd hope this was less likely on a proper ///M car. If you have all the invoices, then you have a usable history and can check for the bushes etc.

Good outcome! The LCD is backlit with bulbs - some are probably blown. I can't recall the code for them, but the aren't really cheap (as bulbs go) as they have moulded bases, but aren't a wallet killer. Buy a set and replace the lot. Google should tell you the code and amount. I think I brought a 10 pack... maybe.

There is still space for more cylinders...

Maybe you can fit a 318i auto diff for the better acceleration ratio The whine from the poor thing will sound like a supercharger.

Now update you profile too

Damn... I thought they might be mint for my 80's VW van... Will be cool to watch this Jooles! (And see what comes next) I have a bit of a fetish for finding unusual goodies, and you always seem to be on the hunt for something cool. Subscribed

Actually... for the cam - eBAy search for SJ4000 and just leave them recording full time. It's like a go-pro, but cheap and pretty good (see quality comparisons on You Tube). I have one on my bike helmet.

I suspect they may have actually been trying to park on the side of the road...... but misjudged it, based on the results on their previous "parking by braille" attempts.

Ha... what are the chances of 2 bimmersporters recently having an E39 touring AND a City turbo in the "stable" Maybe I should take the bits you cut off the back, and can convert my sedan into a touring I've nearly got my O2/LPG brazing setup sorted. Mrs is starting to eye up Odyssey RB1 Absolutes (So am I, just have to work out how to convert to manual trans )

http://www.cable-shack.co.uk/ Jimmy can supply what you need. He's not the cheapest, but can offer support and help if required with the setup of the software. The VAG cable needs a mod, and then you still have to get the BMW software, install it, and set it up to work. Jimmy's in one click type install now I think. Lots require virtual machines and looooooooooooooooong setup procedures.

The battery is probably poked if it's been sitting that long as was flat. I'd start there first. Even just try one from another (going) car. Make sure it's big enough.