Allanw

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Thats clean. Most engine conversions look a bit half assed, but that looks like it should be in there (Well... other than we know what it is). Well done!

You photoshopped in those glasses, I don't wear them.

Not too many option lists that are shorter than this one! VIN WBAAD620X0AG28117 Type code 1462 Type 320I (EUR) E series E30 () Series 3 Type LIM Steering RL Doors 4 Engine M20 Displacement 2.00 Power 95 Drive HECK Transmission AUT Colour BRILLANTROT (308) Upholstery (0269) Prod.date 1990-02-27 Close Options Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S215A SERVOLENKUNG, DREHZAHLABHAENGIG Power steering, engine-speed-dependent S350A WAERMESCHUTZGLAS GRUEN, RUNDUM Therm.insulat.glass green S411A FENSTERHEBER,ELEKTRISCH VORN/HINTEN Window lifts,electric,front/rear S423A FUSSMATTEN IN VELOURS Floor mats velours S498A KOPFSTUETZEN IM FOND Headrests mechanically adjustable, rear S520A NEBELSCHEINWERFER Fog lights S530A KLIMAANLAGE Air conditioning L807A JAPAN-AUSFUEHRUNG NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN S925A VERSANDSCHUTZPAKET Dispatch protection pack Here is my fathers one - STILL not an M car, just and SE. It also doesn't show options that must be standard fitment, like fogs, boot lid liner, body coloured bumpers, SE side skirts etc, etc, etc: Type code 1412 Type 325I (EUR) E series E30 () Series 3 Type LIM Steering RL Doors 4 Engine M20 Displacement 2.50 Power 125 Drive HECK Transmission MECH Colour GLETSCHERBLAU METALLIC (280) Upholstery (0378) Prod.date 1990-04-05 Close Options Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S200A KATALYSATOR - ENTFALL without catalytic converter S215A SERVOLENKUNG, DREHZAHLABHAENGIG Power steering, engine-speed-dependent S219A SPORT-LEDERLENKRAD Leather-covered sport st. wheel 380 mm S288A LEICHTMETALLRAEDER BMW light alloy wheel, cross spoke 29 S339A SHADOW LINE Shadow-Line S350A WAERMESCHUTZGLAS GRUEN, RUNDUM Therm.insulat.glass green S401A SCHIEBE-HEBEDACH, ELEKTRISCH Lift-up-and-slide-back sunroof, electric S411A FENSTERHEBER,ELEKTRISCH VORN/HINTEN Window lifts,electric,front/rear S464A SKISACK Ski bag S498A KOPFSTUETZEN IM FOND Headrests mechanically adjustable, rear S530A KLIMAANLAGE Air conditioning S548A KILOMETERTACHO Kilometre speedo S551A BORDCOMPUTER II MIT FERNBEDIENUNG On-board computer II with remote control S562A KARTENLESELEUCHTE Reading light S675A BMW SOUND SYSTEM Sound system Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S682A RADIOANTENNE AUTOMATISCH Rear seat bench in fabric S687A RADIOVORBEREITUNG Radio preparation S728A EDITION ZV Edition ZV S750 BASISUMFANG FUER EDITION S806A Neuseeland Ausfuehrung Third stoplamp S850A ZUSAETZL. TANKFUELLUNG EXPORT Additional Export tank filling S925A VERSANDSCHUTZPAKET Dispatch protection pack

I was just thinking that! Geez... why? They're so "common" Looks awseome dude. Well done.

Bummer! Probably best to get it done! Shouldn't be a drama, perhaps they'll come to the part a bit on the over lapping costs. I'd have thought it'd be something a tech would recommend.

Changing the tank can be more costly than a complete unit - Price one up - they're probably only 3-400 for a complete brand new Nissens brand or similar. Dunno if I'd get a no-name chinese one though.

That's a good point - the gauge on the E39's is VERY buffered - it will read normal from about 70-75C, but the engine is running rich until at least the mid 80's. You have to use the live data to diagnose a problem anyway Dunno how it's done on an E60/61, but the E39 is via the OBC (unlock etc). I assume it's in the I-Drive thing somewhere. The thermostat will bring up a code if the electronic parts has failed, but it just runs hotter if that's the only problem (not really good either to be fair). My Mate with the E39 540i Touring got mid to high 9's on a trip from Auckland to Wellington and back. Our manual 525i can easily get 8-8.5 on a trip up north with the family in the car, and I have acheived 7.0 from Whangarei to Warkworth, by myself with very little traffic. I wonder if BMW had fixed the Vanos seal issue by then??? Probably not!

The rest of the plastic will be about as brittle - it was on borrowed time already it seems! repalcement radiators are cheap these days.

In THEORY about 200 amps would probably cover it... BUT try it on a cold day, with cold oil/engine, and it could possibly increase a lot, as the slower it turns with more load, the longer each winding is a "short" for. The current will peak at each compression stroke. 200 Amps at 12V is about 2400W, which is about the rating of a M54 starter motor (dunno what the others would have), but thats not taking into account how in-efficient the motor is - And I don't think they are very efficient - my electric assist bike only gets up to about 85% and it's electronically controlled DC brushless motor). Just because the starter is rated at 2.5KW, doesn't mean that power is always required either - the engines compression/tightness determines the required load. The wire resistance also goes up as it heats up, so if you are too close to the limit, a long cranking time could result in less and less power to the starter, and the wire getting hotter and hotter, making EVERYTHING worse A geared starter should have less peak draw, as they spin faster and smoother., but it's average will still be quite high It could still get up pretty high in the right situation.

The thermostat is there to stop the cool water flowing in from the radiator if the engine is too cool. the pump circulates water continuosly through the block/head, and when the engine temp is higher that the thermostat temp, it lets some "cool" water in from the radiator to mix with the hot water. Dads E30 runs at less than 1/2 - ever since the thermostat was changed to a cooler running one (which I think was part of the cooling system recall years ago). It always runs at the exact same place though. Yours sounds like it's not closing properly.

Thermostat sounds dodgy - cruising should not let it get lower. On our E39, if you drive down a long hill using no throttle at speed, the temp only drops a few degrees - maybe three or 4 MAX. Once the engine is up to temp, the thermostat should keep it pretty constant.

There is a lot to be said for decent tyres. I brought a set of alloys for our old SUbaru with Achilles on them... Would you believe: they wife got a puncture and drove home on it, knackered the tyre, so I got another new one to match. Then in the folowing 15,000 kms, got 8 more punctures! I wondered what she was doing. I couldn't be f'd with the cheap peices of crap, so put Bridgestone MY-01's on. They're a pretty good touring tyres, and never had a puncture in them, even with the Mrs driving all the same places.

It's back to 8k no reserve, or 8.5K buy now. Maybe they worked out that being a turbo isn't that special

You're talking about the M5 right? The bonnet switches cause a lot of false alarms. You can unplug the switch and see if it does it again. Of course, it might not ever do it again anyway I've never looked, but I wonder if you can see what made it trigger via software, or some other way???

My wife can drive slower than I do, and will STILL use more gas. Apparently the car has an on/off pedal, not a throttle.

Fixed that for you.

I think they started at 100K, then revised it when they had breakages - same on my Holden Astra - it broke the cambelt under warranty at 62,000, Holden revised the changes to 60K after that

Rust or Corrosion on either surface? It doesn't take much.

Their info is a little ambiguous, but it does state ACEA A3/B4 and BMW LL-01. Just double check it's on the bottle, in case there are other versionrs (One image wasn't ACEA A3/B4) Thanks for the info - I hadn't found that one yet! Their "plus 10" thing is some marketing bullshit, though I do actually prefer the slightly heavier 40 oil (just makes me feel better!). My favourite is 0W-40, though 5W-40 isn't that disimilar, and certainly makes little difference in our climate. It also fits what BMW spec for the M54: 0W or 5W, and 30 or 40. Thanks!

It's always worth a try! When we brought the E30, it was $26995, on sale for $23995. We paid $17500 I wonder though - most buyers of a 325i SE in Takapuna probably wanted an Auto though. The previous Toyota Surf that dad had was on the yard for $36995, he knew the yard owner, but only paid 27,000. Sure, there was more margin back then, but they could have paid anything for it - if the car sold traded it on had good margin, they may be happy to cut their losses (ie make the minimum) on this one to clear it. It's not a car you sell every day!

Your engine would be an M54. You need oil that is ACEA A3 rated, AND BMW LL-01, according to BMW. That oil lists neither, and very little info is available. Just buy something decent that works. Castrol Edge 0W-40 A3/B4 is usually on the shelf at Repco, and IS suitable according to BMW - it's a high shear oil as required. There is a 0W-30 version available as well. Since when has cheap been good? If the cost is a problem, buy something for half as much, but change it twice as often

My wife and I slept in our Suzuki Cappuccino Roadtrips are cool though!

Here's a pic of our matt silver ones, in case anyone wants to see them: Came from this guy: Suwit10 on eBay for about NZ$22 shipped. The gauges look a bit plain with nothing on, the rings do smarten them up!

PM Andrew: E21 market cornerer He's had 4 e21's That I can think of and still has most of the bits I think!