Damo

While I wait to amass the last of the turbo engine bits, I threw this together:

the intended rotrs and adaptors:

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More:

OK some pictures I took while I was doing a trial fitment, shows you the end product essentially:

Hi all, While most are arguing about who has the fastest BMW and whether its jap powered or not, some of us wander out into the garage and start making them I should be adding this to the M30 turbo rebuild page, but it just worked SO well that I thought I should share it. YOU WILL NEED: 1.25" rotor capable Wilwood Superlite / SLII/ SLIIR calipers 2x 20mm pad spacers (for the inside pad) optional: 1.25"x12" rotors and adaptors (I started with these, but the way it all worked I have not yet used them!) Tap for caliper bolts (M12x1.5 I think?) Adapter for Wilwood brake line fitting thread to BMW brake line fitting thread (from a hydraulics shop) Wheels with a huge (positive?) offset or 25mm spacers as I used. Wheel bolts that dont protrude out of your spacers (or swap to studs) if used. INSTALL: 1. By the grace of the BMW gods, Girling and Wilwood have used the SAME mounting pattern for their calipers. This means you dont need a caliper adapter bracket, which is usually the hardest part of the process!!!! 2. Tap the bolt holes on the Wilwood calipers - the holes are already drilled out to the right size to accept the tap. 3. With the work done on the calipers, remove all the factory gear, including the rotor. I am assuming your factory rotors are the same vented ones as I have; I had them slotted and cross-drilled when I did my engine conversion. here is where I considered using the rotor adapters; If the factory ones have any issues in testing I will make a simple adapter bracket (to push the caliper out further to make room for the larger rotors. This will also require longer wheel bolts as the adaptor is thicker than the factory rotors to give the Wilwood rotors the correct offset. Assuming you are carrying on using factory rotors: 4. Put the factory caliper bolts back in, but in REVERSE; so the head is on the rotor side. 5. put the rotor back in place on the hub and put the locating screw in a few threads, but so you can still put an angle on the rotor. 6. Bolt the caliper onto the hub; you wil need to ben some of the heatshield and put the rotor on an angle as you do the bolts up so you can reach the heads. Tighten up the caliper bolts and now the rotor locating cap screw and check it all turns freely. 7. ADMIRE your massive brakes for a while before you complete the install. You will notice you have more gap on one side than the other between the rotor and the pistons. This isnt 110% ideal but with the pad spacers on one side it makes no functional difference. 8. put in the pads and pad spacer on the inside - the AWESOME part is that the pads are replaceable without removal of the caliper, just a couple of runner bolts and a cotter pin. 9. Install the brake lines and bleed the system as per normal brakes 10. Reinstall the wheels. To do this I had to use some 25mm spacers; these are the type that have new studs in them so they have the advantage of converting you to studs and they are totally certifiable. ADVANTAGES: 4 piston calipers 2.5G braking potential Replace pads without removing more than the wheel 2.5G braking potential!!!!!!!!!! Lighter than factory - less unsprung weight Better heat dissipation, VASTLY less potential for brake fade! I can get these calipers for about $400 a pair used if anyone wants to do this Pictures soon, I am going back into the garage for now

Prices will be above Link but wel below Motec etc with gauranteed better specs than any available unit as standard.Will also bring out cut down AIC's etc for the easy money

Gus, if your procrastination holds you off until the end of the year you will be able to get yourself a RevSpec-7 from us for much less than the Autronic, and it has more features than ANYTHING currently on the market (our first design goal). And you wil save on getting it tuned because we have a base map calculator that actually works! and good auto-tuning with wideband 02 feedback.Dyno testing in a dyno engine room is sooooo much fun, sit back at the computer, fiddle a few values and a bit of code and rev the nuts off the test engine.... Im so addicted I end up working till about 9 every night! it most likely will...a base map for 325i would be mint to get started withwould be more a learning experience for me than a pure performance upgrade. so intuitive tuning woudl be cool. im gonna take for granted it has a MAP sensor you mentioned before you might try on the formula FSAE car...as far as i know they still using Autronic? Im doing their business sh*t...fun. interested to see how your thing turns out, as long as your customer support handles lotsa questions as the project progresses sounds good. Gus,I am down in the dyno rooms at Uni most nights working on the ECU. will not be on the car this year as they have ties with Link still and I am very hesitant to alarm poor Philip more than I already have. Engine I am testing with is the spare engine for the car. Dont even need to ask questions ike "can I use a MAP sensor" or "How many tuning points can I have", if you have heard of it it is supported, if you need a certain number of tuning points then you just extend your map. I just cant believe how restrictive the existing systems are. In some ways I can; people are very hesitant to make something better that already works unless they REALLY have to, so most ECU's are 4 or 5 years behind in technology. Maybe I will cross paths with you during the year!

Gus, if your procrastination holds you off until the end of the year you will be able to get yourself a RevSpec-7 from us for much less than the Autronic, and it has more features than ANYTHING currently on the market (our first design goal). And you wil save on getting it tuned because we have a base map calculator that actually works! and good auto-tuning with wideband 02 feedback.Dyno testing in a dyno engine room is sooooo much fun, sit back at the computer, fiddle a few values and a bit of code and rev the nuts off the test engine.... Im so addicted I end up working till about 9 every night!

the 333 turbo uses a Bosch Motorsport 550HP external unit I brought in from Singapore, they want ridiculous money for them from the distributors here. Runs larger inlet and outlet though so you need to run bigger lines, but thats not a major and gives a huge safety factor - depends what your fuel requirements are.

I may be a little biased seeing as I am in the dyno testing stages of developing my own aftermarket ECU but..... I STRONGLY suggest you save your pennies and get a standalone system if you think you can afford a piggyback system. To be honest with you, a piggyback system is what gets sold to peope who are intimated by the idea of a standalone unit. It is dangerous to say the least to rely on a unit that modifies normally correct signals if you want maximum power out of your engine. And im not just saying that to sell my ECU because I dont have enough of them to sell publicly yet Any other questions?

Could very well be, there are not many around! I found it via Hyko at german automotive - owned by a mechanic that used to work for him.

Car was running on 12 PSI for about 2 years, a respectable 380 horse at the wheels. Now aiming for 25 PSI on the RevSpec ECU setup and the rebuild. Shouldnt be a problem for it, many other M30 turbos run that all day

????? You are thinking of a very different car my friend - this car was not from TM, and I never saw any ad about it here?

from the back:

Also, REIGER GTS bumper arrived along with intercooler cores for bigger intercooler, heres a trial fit:

Update on the other car - shes been off the road too long now! Head was planed and straightened, turns out the problem of smoking was in the exhaust valve guides - bought new ones from pelican parts and they are going in at the moment. The 3.3 block checked out AOK, so for now she stays a 333i. Pic of block:

Last pic

another

Next - BTW did you check out how long the rear windows are on this thing?

Back from Honeymoon finally, time for an update. Bought a Garrett GT30R from the Garrett Factory in Korea while away, so that is destined to be strapped to the 2002 at some point. For now the body is done, and the laborious process of re-registration is complete. Its a blast to drive as it is - but I cant leave it at that! Here some pics of how she looks now.

Yep, sure did!The intercooler is going to have to curve to fit in completely, but the bumper looks rather angry in the trial fit with all that IC peeping out

Hi all, The Reiger front has arrived so I can now fit the 1300x670 intercooler in it That means the Mtech 1 front kit has to go, complete with pre-facelift bumper all painted white on exchange with a stock bumper if needed. Tow hook hole has been plastic welded up for a smoother look. Offers above $150 considered, thanks!

Totally agree with the 'extreme' comment. I just opened my Reiger front fresh from germany and realised I really can fit 1.3 metres of intercooler in it for the M30 turbo to use