BreakMyWindow

Hi All, Apologies if this is a re-post. Am wondering if there is a place in Auckland that sells e30 tech II kits? Front/rear bumpers, skirts and rear spoiler. Not fussed if genuine or fibreglass copies, but muct be good copies. Thanks! Martin

Here is some more details the owner has passed on : this BMW of mine has an RB30 block, DOHC R33det Skyline head with Variable Cam Timing (that works), massive T70 turbo, Link G3 ecu, massive ali race radiator, 510cc injectors, highly modified Jatco 4 speed sequential transmission with air shift (you can change gear from buttons on the steering wheel) and a BA Falcon turbo LSD 3.45:1 diff. The transmission also has a transbrake fitted.. allowing you to lock the wheels by selecting 1st gear and reverse at the same time while the brakes are applied. This is so you can use antilag to get the engine into its peak torque range before you let the wheels unlock. All CV joints are BA Falcon and the rear 5 stud hubs are also BA Falcon. The front hubs were custom machined from high tensile 4140 round billet steel to match the Falcon 5 stud pattern yet have the correct offset for the Nissan offset wheels that the car runs. The rear brakes are standard discs, while the fronts are slotted racing ones with Bendix pads. The wheels are 17 by 8 on the front and a MASSIVE 17 by 10 on the rear. The tyres on the back are like 245's. It has adjustable Koni's in the rear and KYB's in the front. The wheels are DTM 'drift' and aligned the look of the car with what I was trying to achieve. The idea was to bridge the styling between the ever popular drift scene and combine it with a euro classic, but more suited to drag racing and everyday street driving. There is a B&M american ratchet shifter (like all the pro drag cars have) in place of the original. This allows you to choose either the air shift mode or the manual ratchet shift. There is a drag racing auto change function also. There is anti lag which is operational when the brakes and more than 90% of throttle are applied at the same time, i'e: on the starting line. The only things that this car could probably do with would be a bit of paint and colour coding the bumpers and maybe adding racing seats. The interior has seen a bit of modification too... Like for example.. because of the engines size under the bonnet, there was no room in the engine bay for the brake booster and master cyl. These were moved to under the dash where the glove box used to be. There have been about 6 gauges added including digital pressure control and display of the boot mounterd air compressor, a shift light, air/fuel ratio gauge, oil pressure, oil temp, boost. The engine made 1980Nm at the wheels (so at least 620 Nm at the flywheel) and was tuned by Karl Rudermann of E&H Motors. He has a very good reputation with RB engines. The only reason Im looking to move on is because I have a large mortgage! It owes me over 20k not including labour!

Lots more pics available. Please PM if genuinely interested in buying. Owner told me that it has ran a 12 down the 1/4... Obvious traction issues with street tyres.

A friend of a friend has advised that he's looking to sell his recently finished project. Its an e30 318i coupe Engine: RB30DET tuned for 350rwkw Gearbox : Sequential air shift 4 speed Rear end : BA falcon XR6 turbo LSD, with custom axles It has been certed. Pics and contact number available. PM if genuinely interested in buying

Another m5 bites the dust.

Don't mean to rain on your parade, but the engine pay pic doesn't look like an M62TU, they have an all plastic air intake tube, along with a few other differences.

Mods list. 1.) Chassis lightening - All windows and lights smashed - Interior trims removed/ripped out - Bumpers removed with a crow bar, and sledge hammer 2.) Aerodynamics - Multiple Sledgehammer blows 3.) Cooling - 92' honda prelude electric fan directly wired to battery and cable tied to the front grill. - mended water hose when engine mounts broke causing the alt. pulley to eat said hose. 4.) Chassis Rigidity - Engine strapped down to front crossmember using a truck container strap. - Multiple sledgehammer blows. 5.) Appearance - Warehouse rattlecan paint custom paint job, heat cured in ~28 deg. West Auckland sun.

I too had this problem. I just used a piece of vacum hose to replace the cracked section, which reulted in the plastic nipple breaking off the drivers side washer jet. I super glued it, and that lasted all of 3 weeks lol. Intensive wash is a bit of a have imo so ive just left it disconnected. One day, i'll get around to replacing the washer jet, but because it's heated they're not cheap.

if i ever super charged my 540i i'd go for SHNEL

2nd dibbs on a pair of 17x9 style 5's :-D I'd be keen to work there part time, weekends maybe?

Whoops misread that. if you can get the last 7 characters of the chassis number, you can to bmwfans.info and check its build date there. September 98 is when the m62tu was first installed.

If it's a 2003 model, then it will definatley have the m62tu (4.4 litre, vanos on the intake cams, extra 20nm torque 300 or so rpm earlier, and 210kw made 300rpm earlier compared to non vanos m62). Have a listen to the engine idling, if it sounds similar to a diesel, or makes some odd noises coming from around the valve covers be very careful.. you don't want to pay 4k+ like i did. See my post about timing chain guide failure :- http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=27552 PDC was available prior to 2001, mines a Nov 98 model and has it as standard. The kms seem good for a 2003, meaning its done roughly 18,000kms per year, and not spent most of its life cooking away in traffic jams. The radiator (if original) must be due for replacement soon, its a good opp. to change the hoses, water pump and thermo stat. Have the transmissions oil checked, and replace if recommended. Apart from that, it should be just run in.

Nah I havnt, although im pretty sure he has a 540i m sport for parts. There is about 1500 - 2000 worth of parts that need replacing inside the timing case, so that on top of the cost of the engine, putting it in, recoding the dme etc etc wouldnt be worth it.

Yip going ahead with the repair. Hard to find m62tu engines in NZ. in the USA there are plenty, but then you have shipping costs and no knowledge if all this work has been done. Better the devil you know i guess. Will be keeping the car for a while now.

Went to the shop today and discovered some interesting things. The engine looks suprisingly clean behind all the timing covers, no sludge build up. Not bad for 250,000kms worn deflection plate ('U' shaped chain guide) worn lower chain sprocket And the most interesting part... a piece of plastic from the 'U' shaped guide stuck in by the intake cam on the passenger side cylinder head. This is what i imagine made all the racket. 5k to repair, including a new radiator, and transmission service.

I wonder if its had a pre-purchase inspection....

Crud. So it turns out the U shaped guide (deflection plate i think its called) has had its nylon cover worn down allowing the chain to rub on the aluminum plate. Both timing cases need to be removed. $$$$. higher milage m62tu owners/potential buyers, id strongly suggest the timing chains and guides are inspected for wear (a knocking/rubbing/whirring racket made from the timing chain area). Looking on the US forums, it seems the issue with wear is more predominant with the m62tu. Note the racket can also be caused by the VANOS cam transmission (gears within the intake cam sprocket that engage VANOS operation) My next car was going to be an e39 m5.. but the s62 has VANOS on both intake and exhaust camshafts, and not to mention dual timing chains.....

On Thursday morning i went to start my car,(e39 540i with the m62tu, done 250k, nz-new) and decided to make an odd whirring/rattle sound. The sound seemed to originate from within the passenger side cam cover. I removed the oil cap which is on the drivers side cam cover this morning and noticed that the timing chain looks to have been rubbing against something else metal in the engine. (the chain is a golden brown colour, but the top of the chain is now shiny and bare metal looking.) The noise seems to quieten down slightly once the engine has been run, but at this stage im extremely reluctant to turn the motor over any more. I havnt noticed any loss in power or warning lights. Has anyone else with the vanos 540i come accross this problem? My guess is that the chain guides have worn away, and that the tensioner is shot which is allowing the chain to rub against something metal. At this point I don't know what to do as the car itself cost me 10.5k in 2008, and to replace the required parts will be a BIG job... Glenn, your thoughts?

How much did it cost you?

I recently installed an amp and sub in to my E39. I ended up using a Line output converter ($20 from Jaycar) by simply tapping in to the left rear speaker output from the factory amp with a female to female bullet connector.

Way over priced, its not even the 20v version.

any ID12's left?

E39 M5

How about the thrust arm bushes? I think they're also known as reaction rods, or traction arms. When those are naffed they are known to cause a shimmy. I had mine done recently (installed heavier duty x5 bushes) and the shimmy was gone.

id be surprised if that actually improved performance with all the press bends in place.