CamB

No point beyond providing a heads up that the (arguably) hottest M3 in the country has had a price drop, for any non BMW Club members. (edit - hottest road legal M3)

I see in the latest BMW club mag its still for sale - $80k now. So's Rolland's cabriolet. That's an entire year now

I still couldn't bring myself to do it!

Be warned - its a crap job. Just stick the torch onto the metal and leave it on there until the sleeve pulls out with pliers - you can usually get the rubber out ok after that. I wouldn't use an air tool on a CV bolt anyway.

Is the M40 bolt pattern the same or different to the M10 and/or M20? (M10 <> M20, but is M40 the same as one of them?)

Nah he means Pakiri - over the hill from Matakana/Leigh.

Glenn is so right (of course) --> the M40 I have assisted with was bought in non-running condition after a cambelt swap gone wrong (miraculously no damage).

Would quite like to work in some way, shape or form for a motorsport team ... but wife/child(ren to come) are imposing income and a preference not to travel... I am getting old (34). (edit - Matakana already up and came - expensive)

The cam runs on rockers - you really should replace those as they are worn (or not) to match your old cam. However, people can/do change cams without changing them. A new tensioner is a good idea. So is a new waterpump and thermostat while you're in there, and a gasket set... but costs can quickly blow out on this basis. I'm not the right guy to ask (not enough experience) - I just hate seeing unanswered posts. FWIW, if/when I change the cam on the 2002, I will change rockers (partly motivated by trying to find better ones that won't break).

It also depends on whether you use a rear sway bar, and how stiff. I've never got around to changing the rear springs on my 2002 - they are only about 280lb when conventional wisdom suggests 350lb (for racing). Interestingly, it handles fine. Maybe it will handle better with stiffer springs - I'll get there eventually.

I agree with that. But generally speaking some of the spring setups come up with fairly unusual setups. The E30 ones (google "e30 spring rates" it if you want to see the table) have a MASSIVE difference in front / rear ratio (in wheel rates). Some are ridiculously hard at the rear.

Do you have a workshop manual for it? This also might help: http://www.e-30club.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=440 Do you have new followers?

I hate to be the voice of reason but the adapter and Evo brembo option will be even harder than the wilwood (Massive) option or Nissan option to find wheels for. E30 M3 with them needed 17s, no dish. I'm gonna watch this one with interest - I like a good project

I agree with #3. Especially anything I say. Good discussion of spring rates, motion ratios and wheel rates are but a google away. As it pertains to E30s http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3performan...te/eff_rate.htm http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3performan...e/eff_rate2.htm

Have had experience with 3x cars from England: 1) 1978 Jag - rusty. Not really anyone's fault - it was an old Jag 2) 1984 BMW e30 - rusty. No wait, very rusty. Panels, bolts, everything. Was JiB's parts car, and written off because of ... rust. 3) 1986 Pug 205 - rusty. No wait, very rusty. Actually that's not fair - the panels were ok. Every nut and bolt on the undercarriage was rusted to buggery. It makes them a pain in the arse to work on. So I'd check for rust...

That'd be ok though It might be true I guess my point is that any competitor can find out his spring rates for a modest cost (ie, buy some springs and measure them). It's hardly a barrier.

Yeah fair enough, and sorry for being so bolshy (sp?). We should still be able to give opinions, IMHO, but I am happy to admit that mine is fairly baseless in this instance. The Jamex springs will certainly lower the car. I can't fathom why the importer won't give out spring rates. It's a bit like not disclosing the diameter of a wheel - its easy enough to measure and there is no competitive threat in divulging it.

Jamex of course. Multiple sources of info on the web for BMW's own spring rates, including measurements. If there is a difference between 6 cylinder M-sport and M3 rates by all means share them too. In my original post I stated a qualified opinion. If you actually know the Jamex spring rates it would be a good opportunity to share them. Further, the internets is littered with complaints about Jamex being soft, and no small number of instances where Jamex or its distributors won't supply or doesn't know its own spring rates. All I want to know is some lb/in. Its the relevant question - not "how much lower will my car be". This isn't rocket science - the springs go in a machine, it compresses them, you measure the rate. It's not a secret.

You can also have remote locking/unlocking with your EWS key.

I thought I had qualified it reasonably well. OK. I'll put it a different way. The three cars I have driven with Jamex springs were all: 1) low, but unfortunately... 2) not particularly stiffly sprung. It's kind of the worst of both worlds. Since it's only my impressions I don't have proof. I think its because Jamex makes springs that lower the car a lot but are also captive, which ends up being a low spring rate. Maybe you can clear it up - what is the Jamex spring rate vs the M3 rate?

That's 450lb - a bit on the stiff side. It is what JiB has in his 325i and its fine.I'd definitely be ok with that personally.

I wouldn't be surprised if the Jamex's are softer than M-sport.

Nearly there! As a completely unrelated aside, my 2002 will eventually feature the rear window washer reservoir and pump from a 309 GTI, haha. It's tiny, tall and skinny.

E9 3.0 CSL - rare and good.

Wow - one owner. That's unusual!