CamB

ROger that - '96-'99 M3 control arms plus offset bushes almost gets the wheels where they belong.

Sick like broken? I approve of this thread.

NOK 150,000 is only NZ$40k according to an online calc I found. Seems cheap (even to me).

Ah the memories - I had a 106 Rallye for about 3 years . Reg UR4169. I often wonder what happened to it. I was naughty and put heavier 15" wheels on it. Improved the grip but not the handling... I miss that car. You could thrash the crap out if it and not really break the speed limit. It only made power over 5500rpm (to 7500). Mint.

If they are Bosch 14mm ones, yes. I think Evo ones aren't 14mm, they are 11mm.

Porsche GT3 and some change, although the colour does nothing for me (surprisingly few for sale).

I can't remember where my unsprung 6 puck with upgraded pressure plate for my M10 came from (can find out), but it was closer to $700 including the throwout bearing, so assuming $500 for the Exedy incl a pressure plate that's a good deal I reckon. Unsprung hard to break as they have no springs. Hard to drive for the same reason!

Get someone to plug an OBD thingamy in and find out which sensor (my guess) is bung.

Robbie's has run, but not as a turbo.

The plot thins... I believe I do have a cat, of sorts - just not much of one... http://www.goapr.com.au/products/18trhd_downpipe.html Either way, will get the thing seen to. I switched on the Revo software the car came with - have spent a few weeks driving without. Boooooost is fun, even though only set to about 1 bar (can go much higher). Not sure I see the need to go higher. Have also set the timing to a conservative map, as again I don't see the point in going higher...

It's a 1st generation Skoda Octavia VR-S, OBD-II. As I said, the fault code is P0420 which I understand is the cat effectiveness code. I am planning on getting it addressed / checked!

I'm not entirely sure it will cause it to run lean. I would have thought the engine decides how much fuel to use based on the first sensor, and if the second sensor is indicating the cat isn't working (because its not there) that wouldn't have a bearing on the ECU's fueling. It would be stupid of them to do so - cats can and do lose effectiveness and/or fail and and/or clog, and the engine's fueling requirement shouldn't be dictated by air/fuel ratio downstream of it. So basically I understand the only job of the second oxygen sensor is to generate a warning that your cat isn't working. http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm

Its this one, so I should really sort it out. Modification is by previous owner.

The code is P0420 CATALYST EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD - is that a different problem/fix?

Since a solution has been provided... Slightly off-topic: My wife's Skoda (LOL) has a similar problem (check engine light for non-functioning catalytic converter - largely coz its gone). I haven't got around to trying to get it fixed yet but I understand in her car (which is a 2004 model) there is no easy fix by bridging wires. Apparently you reposition the sensor using an elbow to move it out of the direct flow of the exhaust and it's sweet as. I am unsure, but it will be cheap enough to try... has anyone heard of (or better) tried such a bodge, err modification.

I'll guess - Mitsi Evo pistons? Couldn't guess on the rods. Actually I probably could if I sat down with the piston/rod catalogue again. I'm sure I figured out a technically workable combination*. * Note - I have no idea whatsoever whether something is actually possible in real life - all I can do is look at the length of rods and compression height. There are guys up in Sweden using aircooled VW Mahle pistons in 4 cylinder M10's successfully with over 200hp / litre (and HUGE turbos).

If that's what I think (spacer with hub-centric, plus held onto hub or wheel) it meets the requirements for a spacer for the low volume vehicle code too. It doesn't have to be a fully bolt on spacer.

^ I was going to say the same. Even if no-one specifically wants it now, it would be great for something to be on the forum for people searching. Ben - please do a writeup as I'm pretty sure most people don't even know its an option. How have you dealt with ignition timing (SAFC2 is fuel only, yes?). crunchy - what did you do for ignition timing? Please stick around - your tech input could prove very valuable I'd have thought the MAPECU2 would be the better option? Or is having control over ignition not as important as I think it is for forced induction?

Piccy doesn't go large for me I think I know what it is though based on something I seem to remember you mentioning (IHI Indy Car turbo).

I assumed so. That price buys a lots of reconditioning of an existing head...

I like this one better - less km, no front splitter, less ridiculously large wheels... and cheaper. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-211857063.htm

I wonder what it includes?

E300NP - He bought them from Driven I think. Ask them - don't trust the website. They're the bronzey coloured ones, and he got spacer rings for inside them and in the wheels. BEEMIR - They're $180 a pair, so you need 2x sets (= $360), then you need a set of short studs and some hubcentric rings. It won't be cheap.

Yeah nah? http://www.drivenperformance.co.nz/scripts...?idproduct=1416 Pic is different to the heading. Hot tip - JiB has those but 4x100 to 4x114.4 adapters. He couldn't find bolts with a short enough head to fit so had to get very short screw in studs (and used those low profile nuts they come with). You then obviously need a set of regular lug nuts.

Is 25/20 the master cylinder sizes for front / rear?