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Matt

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Everything posted by Matt

  1. Amp was $375 from Driving Gear in NZ. The wiring harness was about $160 (maybe a tad more) from a shop in the UK. Probably makes more sense just to make one yourself but this seemed like less hassle at the time. I'll sell it for $120 if you're keen? Cost me a good bit more than that but such is life ?
  2. https://www.inbay.systems/en/product/charging-compartment-for-bmw-1-series-e81-e82-e87-e88/ Although I bought it off ebay, so have a look there too. Only thing to note is that it is meant to fit onto centre consoles that don't have an ashtray, so if yours does (i assume most do) then you also need to buy the storage tray to replace the ashtray (PN 51 16 7 136 190), and removing the ashtray and fitting that pretty much needs you to remove the whole centre console so kind of a pain in the ass. Considering I was swapping so many other parts over though it didn't really add any significant extra effort for me though
  3. Thanks! The door pulls aren't a wrap, they're factory BMW items for a 1M. Probably the most expensive possible way of doing it, but quality is awesome and they fit perfectly! Part numbers are 51418051245 and 51418051246, and they are a direct fit on E87 door cards (for LCI at least).
  4. Bit of a long post this time, but there is much to update on! Firstly, there is interior updates 4, 5, 6, and 7 (ish)? As I hinted at above I'm adding more alcantara bits through the interior. The inspiration is the 1M coupe, and the goal is to pretty much replicate the complete 1M interior in the 130i, which means getting rid of the textured aluminium completely (which I've never really liked) and swapping it either for alcantara covered parts, or matte black plastic, exactly as in the 1M. I am also going for the orange stitching where I can on the alcantara. I haven't got all the bits yet (more coming), but so far this is where I'm at... Alcantara door pulls on all 4 doors: Genuine 1M handbrake boot with smooth leather handbrake handle, Genuine 1M gearshift surrounds, gearknob and alcantara shift boot. I have also replaced the ashtray with a wireless Qi charging pad from Inbay, so no more charging cables runnning across the centre console! Next up I have been doing some upgrades to the ICE. My car was optioned (or not optioned, if you will) with the base audio which sounds pretty crap. Considering I seem to spend 1.5-2 hours a day in this car on my commute, a better sounding stereo was well overdue! So I have added in the following: Focal 4.320 4 channel amp, plus the Focal BMW IMP 2.1 wiring harness, just to make the install easier. This makes it plug and play in newer BMWs but given the age of mine, I installed it exactly the same way as the factory Alpine system is done, by splicing into the existing speaker wiring. So now the front door speakers, and under-seat subs are run off the Focal amp, and the rear speakers are run off the factory headunit E8X/E9X Logic 7 tweeters. I chose these since they are a factory part, the fit directly into the existing (empty) tweeter pods, and plug into the second socket on the factory door speakers. I actually think the base door speakers are fine for the job they do, they just need tweeters and proper amplification to get the most out of them! If you can get them second hand off ebay too, it is a relatively cheap upgrade One thing that isn't up to the job, in my opinion is the factory under-seat subs, so these have been replaced with "GRS B200-4 ASD Series 8" Glass Fiber Subwoofer" which I managed to score from parts express at 75% off on a clearance special! Now there is actually some proper bass to be felt from the system, and since these are designed for BMW, they fitted perfectly into the factory enclosures, and the factory wiring plugged straight in. Suffice to say, it sounds WAY better now, definitely of the quality I expect from a BMW now, and it is actually enjoyable to turn the volume up loud finally! Amp (currently mounted on a piece of Rimu, because that's what I had lying around ?? One of the subs fitted in its spot: Logic 7 tweeters: Last but not least, I got sick of looking at the phone mount stuck onto my centre air vent, which I always used for google maps, so I have added in a wireless apple carplay system from AliExpress. This is an add on unit that connects in to the existing CCC idrive, so it still has all the original idrive menus, but holding down the menu button, while in the aux audio screen opens up apple carplay. Since it is wireless too it means I can just leave my phone on the charging pad in the centre console, and no ugly cables to plug in! Extra bonus, it comes with a microphone for hands free calling, which i've mounted on top of the A pillar trim, and the steering wheel controls work to skip tracks etc when playing spotify/podcasts etc. Obviously there's no touch screen so you navigate around using the idrive controller. Probably as expected for a system like this it isn't 100% bug free, and does occasionally glitch or freeze, but it still has massively improved the car for the daily commute, so I am stoked with it. So as of now, the only piece of aluminium trim I have left is the one in the middle of the dash. I have ordered a replacement in black alcantara with orange stitching, as well as another gauge pod in black alcantara with orange stitching to complete the 1M package. Hopefully they come in the next month or two, and hopefully they are actually the correct version for RHD unlike the last one I bought. While I was coding in the new cluster (a couple of posts up), I also finally got around to coding in the SPBR option for the M performance brakes (or the 135i version of that I have). Can't say I can feel too much difference to be honest, maybe a fraction sharper at first bite, but that could just be my imagination?? Anyway, I'm sure the coding option is there for a reason so good to do it finally and have it as it should be, Lastly, the car is getting new rear wheel bearings, and rear axles fitted later this week, to hopefully (really really hoping) cure the high speed vibration the car suffers from currently. Will get the harmonic balancer checked at the same time, and the car will get a full condition check before taking it to my/its first track day on Sunday. Can't wait! That's it for the updates for now. Hopefully it runs well at the trackday with no issues, then I will try and make it to the next Auckland meet the week after that, if it is on.
  5. I feel like I have barely had the chance to enjoy them properly since I got them installed, to be honest! But in saying that, I am still really happy with them, the difference isn't huge, but definitely noticeable. There's just a little bit more, right across the whole rev range. I don't think I'd recommend doing it before any of the other suspension stuff I've done in terms of transforming the car. But if you've got that stuff sorted (like you have) and if you need to change the VCG, then I'd definitely say "While you're in there..." ?
  6. I've just replaced my bmw performance shifter boot and knob with something else. Was thinking of selling it, if you're interested?
  7. I know the feeling! Just happened to me too, and now have to send it back to Germany if I want to swap it for the right one, at my expense of course ?
  8. No I haven't. Will definitely get that looked at too, thanks for the tip
  9. In other news, despite the new DMF and clutch, I do still have a vibration at motorway speeds. Starting to really annoy me! At least the low speed vibrations have been solved. Next on the list will be fitting new output shafts and wheel bearings and hope that fixes it ?
  10. Interior update number 3: 1m style gauge cluster plus alcantara covered gauge pod. I wanted the gauge pod to have the orange stitching, and asked for it, but just got sent this plain one. No matter, I ordered another one from a different supplier and this one did come with the proper orange stitching but they sent me a LHD version, despite assuring me they’d send me a RHD version. So the plain one stays for now. Oh well, it actually looks pretty good I reckon. More alcantara goodness coming soon...
  11. Not a 130i, but there is a 120i at Pick-a-part Mangere at the moment, with the factory aero spoiler if anyone is looking for one. Also possibly a AC Schnitzer bodykit by the looks of it? I was there yesterday and it is still mostly complete... http://www.pickapart.co.nz/eziparts/Display_Vehicle.asp?PriceListID=0&VehicleID=7796&Location=pickapartconz&LocationID=3&VehicleDesc=BMW 120i
  12. Will you paint them or leave them blue?
  13. The time and effort you've put into your interior, @Sammo is amazing, and it looks incredible as a result! With 2 little kids I have to be pretty selective about where my time goes, so definitely having to go the easy but expensive option in most cases. I fitted the steering wheel during my lunch break at work today ? It is definitely a fun little car! Great handling and plenty of power for any of the roads I end up on. I can't think of much else that blends the performance/fun factor, with the daily drivability and enough practicality to be able to ferry the kids around when I need. I won't be selling it any time soon, that's for sure!
  14. Yeah I did see those too. The thought of sitting there for a few hours doing that, then looking back on all my mistakes while I'm driving filled me with dread so I quickly looked for other options. I didn't actually shop around much though, just messaged royal steering wheels and went from there!
  15. It definitely wasn't the cheapest, but definitely cheaper than a brand new one, plus could choose the leather and stitching etc. After seeing so many positive posts and reviews about them on youtube, and other forums, I had it done by royal steering wheels in the UK. Cost was £175 (Incl. VAT) + £60 Postage + £100 deposit. Will get the deposit refunded once I post my steering wheel back to them. As I said, not cheap, but the quality is excellent!!
  16. So now that the flywheel and clutch is sorted I can get started on fitting the rest of the interior bits and pieces I’ve been buying over the last few months. Luckily I purchased them before having to fix the clutch or it may not have happened ? Which brings me to... Interior update #2: retrimmed steering wheel in smooth nappa leather, with M tricolour stitching and black alcantara centre insert. Before and after below...
  17. Very happy to report that the problem is now solved!! The guys at P&S did a great job, they said the DMF was definitely shagged and had heaps of play, plus the thrust bearing was about as bad as they'd ever seen apparently. No wonder it was feeling so bad! It was certainly an expensive exercise getting this solved, especially given how many other components I've replaced along the way trying to chase it down. Oh well, should be good to go for another 150,000 kms now! So I enjoyed a very smooth and quiet drive home which was a huge relief. Now I can really get on with enjoying driving it again, especially since I've only just done the MILV and tune!
  18. Well, just dropped the car off to P&S for new DMF and clutch kit to be fitted. They seemed to think doing the rear crank seal was easy enough while they're in there, so doing that too. Fingers crossed for a smooth drive home this evening!! ?
  19. @NZ_InFerno Rockauto is a terrible website for sharing links haha, but you can search easily by part numbers. The DMF is "DMF082" and the clutch kit is "03-059" Such a shame BMW is starting to shutdown these websites. First the VIN decoder sites, now newtis.info. Really hope they don't start going after the ETK websites like realoem next. These sites are such a big reason why I love owning BMW!
  20. Yes, got that as well, of course! LuK brand too. Oh right, sorry! I’ve got them from RockAuto, it is way cheaper than the usual suspects like FCP etc. $1210 NZD all up including GST and shipping. They didn’t stock the flywheel bolts though so have just ordered them through BMW East Auckland at $55 for 6. I’ll post the exact links/kit numbers later when I get the chance. Bought heaps from rock auto before though, they’re awesome.
  21. It says "Kit Contents: Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Release Fork, Release Bearing, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack"
  22. Well, new LuK DMF, clutch kit and new flywheel bolts have been ordered. Bit of luck should have them by the end of next week and can get them fitted the week after! Is there anything else I should be doing at the same time? Fingers crossed this will be the end of the bad vibrations! In other news, I've just booked in for a driver training track day at Hampton Downs at the end of November. Details here, if anyone else is interested: https://fb.me/e/8hLtB2xTX I haven't done a track day before so I've selected the beginner group and requested some instructor time as well. Can't wait!
  23. Been doing a bit of reading, and although the Valeo SMF sounds like a good option, I think I'll stick with the DMF and keep the factory feel. I've actually always quite liked the clutch feel in this, especially once I removed the CDV, and keen to keep the factory refinement. I will be getting P&S to do this work too, so I assume they'd have the right tools for the rear crank seal. In saying that if it is still a pretty big job I don't want to pay too much extra if I don't have to! The part itself is cheap, so I might buy it in case it is leaking, but tell them not to bother fitting it if it isn't.
  24. Yeah very keen to pick your brain on that. Been looking at prices, and can get the Luk DMF and clutch kit slightly cheaper than the valet SMF kit, from rockauto. When I say cheaper though, theyre near enough that they might as well be considered the same price. From what I understand, the bite point should be nicer on the SMF but at the expense of some smoothness?? Given it trying to eliminate a vibration I’m tempted to stick the to the DMF. I’ve been pretty deliberate in the rest of the build to use rubber bushings over poly for the same reason, only getting stiffer if there’s a rubber version available, like the e46 M3 gearbox mounts. One of the reasons I hear people saying to get the SMF kit is to save cost, but at the same price would you still go that route? I suppose it will help a lot next time you go to do the clutch though. Would you recommend doing the rear crankshaft seal at the same time too?
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