Driftit

Awesome. Good to hear you sorted it. The relay may have had too much current drawn through it at some stage. It can cause the contacts to arc and build up little bits of metal which can catch or be so close that they touch when there is vibration present. I have just been dealing with this at work. Found a 100-150mA draw that was being caused by this relay being both closed and open. This is super magnified as the relay is only about the size of your little finger nail. But you can see the build up.

Meh. 130i Manual money.

It is a good thing to reset your adaptations of the gearbox and follow the re-learn process too. (Make sure it is the GM process not the ZF process) You should end up with a much smoother changing box with no flaring between 3rd and 4th. I'm just about to service mine again soon. It is just starting to flare.

One for you. https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Converting_to_Motronic_1.3

You can convert your car to 1.3. I did that many years back. There may even be a guide on here. Swap out entire loom. Which on an E30 is not that difficult.

https://youtu.be/m5csBuIjgMs?si=WZKDtPCW6VrweUHG This video may hurt you.

Yes. It's this entire sub.

Yeah this is what makes me suspicious of his claims. Nothing he is doing there is any form of manipulation. Jaycar use to do a kit that you could build that allowed you to intercept the A/F input and output whatever you like (lying to the ECU). I had one of these kits back in the early 2000's. Without a wide band A/F sensor you are risking your motor. I found out the hard way. The unit failed and ran my motor lean while at the track. Piston melted. I have a piggy back MAP ECU2 in my E34. It is probably going to be replaced as I develop the car. But it has been good for what I am doing. https://map-ecu.com/

I honestly don't think he would be manipulating any of the data. He seems to be just using the script to visualize and scale the pulse count. You could use this to make a display/gauge. @hybridan old Bimmersport member on here was building a nice display system for his E30. Have a did back to see if you can find the posts. If you wanted to cheat without having to write any code you could pick up an old mapecu2 which is a piggy back and use their UI to monitor anything required for tuning or switch/trigger states.

It looks like simple pulse counting of a hall effect sensor monitoring RPM. More likely he is simply intercepting some of the sensor inputs. Was quite common with old piggy back ECU's.

This one looks okay for a project. Wonder what he actually wants for it. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1520985222202887/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A0f9fe55c-1ff4-42ed-8dca-b1e77447c62d

That's a pretty good one there. Powerbuilt is generally still pretty good with the heavy equipment. I am still using my 26 year old powerbuilt socket set. Got me thinking about returning my small jack and fixing and selling my wayco to buy this one.

There are so many options for trolley jacks. I have had my Wayco one that I got from Repco for 25 years now. It's seals just recently let go. Will get a rebuild kit for it. Though I was looking at one of these as it was cheap. https://classiccarparts.co.nz/nds-trolley-jack-low-profile-3-ton-525mm-lift-height-wt04f0071 I think they are South Island based too. I also grabbed one of these for the track. $79... https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/toolpro-toolpro-low-profile-trolley-jack-1600kg/563848.html Get yourself some good jack stands too.

Just drop it on a standard trolley jack. Even the standard jack will leave you with little room. Those cradles are only good for hoists. And I actually think they are crap for that too. I have more of a claw shaped one for my hoist. Easier to jiggle around.

That is a really good price for a full set. Wow. I'm going to give them a call.