Kodachrome

Yeah, surely we've taken this as far as reasonable. I'll get the return and just ordered some OEM type mounts. This is the second time I tried to switch to a camber kit, failed again (think last time on diff car the part was lost in post)!

Im sure the rears will be fine as they wont need to rotate. I did a lot more googling and founding using the term "pillow ball" (pillowball) bearing vs "spherical" and I got tons more hits. I found lots of them in camber kits in track Subaru's (and Tein brand coilover kits) and frequently come up with "why does my spring bind" and noises etc. People DIY fixes by adding.. needle thrust bearings! This guy specifically outlines my fear (on an E36)! http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135027 In now trying to finding bearings to fit this but given I would have to put the bearing on the shaft top (16mm ID bearing) its not super obvious that the rating would be or even where to place it? From test fitting there are some scratches on them and now Im not sure they will even allow me to return them.

I do appreciate your input, Mountshop just told me to return them and also are backing out of saying they will work in this car now (despite confirming it to me previously) without thrust bearings.. which they have no image or PN for! On your suggestion: Well I'll have to skip the spring perches as I didnt order spares and havent dismantled the car wanted to "dry fit" the upper mount to the shock to check it was all good first. I was able to clamp (pipe pliers) the shaft of the shock under the mount (not on the shiny part, on the piece welded to the top, under thread). And with a 15cm bar for leverage I was able to turn them without the shock spinning around. So I guess your initial point is correct, they do rotate and pivot with enough effort. You are saying install them as is, Mountshop are now advising not to install them without mysterious thrust bearings!? thanks again!

Lol yes, Im real hit and miss in my tool selection where Im living, most in storage. So put the kit on the shock and tightened the nut down. When I try turn the mount it tries to tighten or loosen the nut. When I try turn the shock holding the mount it just spins the shaft in the shock body itself, which I gather is not good. Maybe when installed (vs in my hands) and clamped down in the strut tube.

Thanks, tried those checks. 1: No, it definitely will not turn by hand, though there is nothing grab by hand really either. 2: Yes, see image. I put a spare bolt and washer from my seat swap in and clamped it down. With the ratchet and something to grip the mount (threaded bar between studs) I was able to slowly but smoothly turn it. 3: I didnt have a 14mm threaded piece of bar or bolt here to test, living in a townhouse don't have a ton of space at the moment. So I guess it will "turn" though I worry my poor old car with its poor old PS pump and hoses will be a bit "WTF are you doing?" when I try steer with these in it! I dont think anything is/was binding.. its just way way stiffer to turn than OEM, so much so that it appeared "rigid" without using handtools as above. Or when compared to video's of other camber kits. As it happened I got an email from their product manager too, who suggests: "The spacer and nut should not bind together in the centre. Nut and spacer measurement is 19.5mm and length of the pillow ball is 20mm. The only issue I see that you have is that the kit provided does not come with thrust bearings. " I checked with a digital caliper and those are the measurements indeed. I've asked him if those mentioned thrust bearings were meant to come with the kit or supplied by me. Because like.. that is infact the question that started all this! EDIT: This is his reply.. The bearing we do not sell sorry and I would not advise assembly without it. Grrr, now what!?

Well you do seem to know what you are talking about! When I asked the seller their initial feedback (which they later corrected) was the yellow dust boots were actually the thrust bearings. Which didn't inspire confidence. It definately cannot be turned by hand when even loosely tightened, just like a bad standard upper mount would do (its like its siezed). So you are saying thats ok and should be fine when installed?

I put the wrong image up, but thats what I was describing: "Trying different combo's of the shaft adapters here. Top one (on left) screws down, the other one brings the shaft from 14mm to 16mm for the camber plate. Stacked like that they dont actually touch in the middle when installed, just binds the hold thing up" Ive fitted E28, E34, E39 and E31 upper strut mounts and all of them have one bearing yes, an axial bearing. You just put the washer on either side of the bearing and you are done. The vast majority of aftermarket camber kits also feature axial bearings, exactly the same. I found some people asking the same question I have with these spherical bearing kits (which IMO are the minority of kits) and all those threads ended with people advising just to ditch them and get a proper camber kit. Here are some photos, last one is with the nut on, which binds on the mount, locking the whole thing solid. I would think what was meant to happen was the two metal sleeves meet in the middle (inside the spherical bearing) and the top mount assembly "floats".. but they dont, they are too short so it just binds.

Took some close up photos. Trying different combo's of the shaft adapters here. Top one (on left) screws down, the other one brings the shaft from 14mm to 16mm for the camber plate. Stacked like that they dont actually touch in the middle when installed, just binds the hold thing up:

Hmm, I'm not following? What do you mean, the Ireland engineering unit definitely does use a flat thrust "bearing" (ok, well, its a thrust roller washer), its pictured on the link as a roller washer thing that would allow that pivot action. I can't see how I can clamp down on the screw thread without pinching the mount to the strut itself. I'll keep trying. Part G

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/suspension/listing/2736771526 Im at a loss to have this is meant to work. I have new Bilstein Sports here for my E28 and this camber kit, in my hands. Its supplied with all the usual adapters to sleeve the shaft of the shock. However they have not supplied a thrust (flat) bearing and the camber kit itself is two solid pieces with a spherical (ie tilting) bearing inside. Ireland Engineering produce a similar kit but they supply a thrust bearing: https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/ie-adjustable-camber-fixed-caster-plates-2002-e21/ What am I missing here!? Im in email contact with them but they are claiming "the bearing is inside".. yes, the wrong type of bearing!

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2690366544?bof=l8wJ90OT "A Tastefully sized wing matches the body." Obviously way way into tack-land but at least its got the power to match the bark. Ive always wondered why widebody kits can never get the rear arches to look even remotely part of the body when they manage the front ok?

I had a saloon E60 530i and a wagon E39 530i. The e60 has the N52 engine and the e39 has the M54 engine. Ive heard in other chassis that M54 is well liked, but man it was slow (*sedate, objectively it wasnt slow like say, my E28 is ) in that E39. The E60 530i was no rocket, but it was a much, much more interesting drive in both pace and sound. Both were slushboxes and again the newer 6speed (vs 5speed in E39) in the E60 was miles better.

Let me know if you/where you source it then, Ill keep looking online too. Rather not wait weeks of course! EDIT: Just went with a Delphi unit from Ebay UK, seems reasonable price + delivery. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333656040290

They are really banking on the low mileage to add on the thousands there. I sold a well running 530i LCI with maybe 260k on the clock for like, $9k nearly 4 years ago. $15k for a 2008 E60 thats not an M5 is taking the piss. IMO.

Part 11 : http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E28/Europe/525i-M30/R-A/mar1983/browse/steering/steering_linkage_tie_rods/ 32211129017 Turns out my 1-year old install of all suspension bits on my e28 seems to have gone tits up, shocks are bouncing around the place and wheels buckled, taking out stuff all around them. This is one of the harder to source parts, anyone got on in good condition? Mine has WOF-failable play apparently.

So sadly my E28 decided I hadnt spent enough money on the non-go faster bits and the steering shake I brought it to the mechanic for turned out to be destroyed 1-year old Bilstein P6's, shock top/steering mounts, centre drag lings, all 4 wheels and steering column. Literally half the front end needs to be replaced, possibly due to badly repaired wheels (Beau Repairs did it last and the Tire Clinic tried balance it last month, who knows whats gone in that whole area) and maybe something wrong with the shocks or top mounts. So I need to bail on this for now. If you decide to break the parts, I would be interested in the M30 engine itself.

Hi again. Im interested, after reviewing with my mechanic he asked: - what bellhousing on Toyota box.. how is it mated to M30? - what's history of engine itself, what work done ? - what boost level? Dyno? - Head gasket and head bolts upgraded? - how is clutch activated, hydraulic? BMW or Toyota setup?

I had an m54 E39 wagon auto and I found the body weight totally mismatched to the engine. Definitely diesel but this V8 would be even better. Fuel economy sucked on the M54b30 pulling that weight too.

Lol, I did that afterwards (and are hardly conclusive anyhow!), usually I do it first but I assumed from everything I read as it was from the position of "e28's use intank + external" pumps! I'll look into putting a fuel wiring bulkhead seal in and running my own wires. Given I want to increase the power, its going to have to get a performance intank upgrade at some point regardless.

For anyone else that comes across this, its worth noting that NOT ALL E28's even have the intank fuel pump. My 525i M30 does not. Ive gone off and ordered a nice Aeromotive unit to replace/upgrade (and remove external) something that isnt even there or wired to be there. https://e28goodies.com/intank-pump-zip-tie-fix/

Thanks. How is the boost controlled? Presume mechanical boost controller, does the MS monitor AFR and adjust accordingly should boost be turned up/down? All Anchillaries included.. so power steering pump? Alternator? AC? What model did the M30B35 come out of? There is a difference in the mounting points apparently (early vs late e34 vs e28).

What turbo is it exactly? Any HP estimate? Any reason this wouldn't fit an E28 around the exhaust manifold area?

Yeah I dont disagree actually, to a point, it was my original plan too. I just couldnt justify total cost of the V8 plus gearbox being the same as a handbuilt M engine. But, you have given me food for thought, I'll check ebay again for the 5 speed V8 ZF.

I think you misunderstood my point. It was about relative ratios of budget to parts. I never said the 420g was comparable to anything. I just said it was expensive and in the engine conversion game I'd end up with a V8 manual yes, but my primary aim was not to manualify an e28. There are tons of people with getrags on s50's with zero problems, first hand feedback. Fwiw I've had a 420g before and a 560g, they were fine, no better or worse in terms of feel than any other manual shifter. It's just a functional part. Unlike an engine, which is all character. A rare S50 plus gearbox is "more valuable" to me than an fairly regular old M62 and gearbox but the total price is similar due to the used aftermarket pricing on the gearbox. I'm not sure what you mean by a ZF on the M62.. there is a very rare old 5speed ZF from the 3.5litre M60? Not super appealing but not usually available anyway??

Yep, this is what I was thinking too, I have no problem with a Getrag, Im not looking to race, just cruise. Already have the clutch and guibo for a Getrag, just waiting on the rest!