Kodachrome

Pretty cool and a bit rare in NZ I imagine, though thats a 2.0 engine, the "3" comes in as its tuned from the base 120d, not actually the engine size.

Would look nicer if they swapped the front shocks and springs when at it to match the new rears height wise. I think this year is the better m73 version of the v12 too.

Sorry to clarify, it's on 3.5 bar fuel rail pressure, not boost.. Which would indeed be spectacular!

Ok, so tested without check valve installed: - 10.05v at pump (vs 8.3v with valve.. so a significant reduction in load on pump). 11.8v in the car on the USB adapter thing with the volt display (same fuse circuit), so the volt sag due to load is 1.75v.. which isn't terrible sounding. - 55c when idle on fuse (which ironically is worst case scenario for this circuit due to high load on pump via resistance) vs 91c+ - Drove it around in a mix of fast and slow and steep hill climbs etc. Runs so nice now. Temp on fuse is 42c after driving (and therefore has more airflow and less resistance in circuit. So.. maybe all is well? If I just remember to let the pump prime before cranking, maybe the lack of check valve wont be that annoying? PS: I definitely need an amp clamp! My multimeter has an amp mode but Im always afraid to use it as last time someone demo'ed it to me there were sparks..

Thanks again, I'm of two minds still despite what I said. Noted on AEM, this is the second pump as the first (more appropriately size, in tank version) was dead on arrival. I had only loosely knew the brand from years ago when they had a better rep. I got this model as "an upgrade" from the faulty one. On the plus side, the m54 is on 3.5bar, so over 50psi, so the delta isn't as big as feared.

Thats true and I agree generally, though in this implementation the excess fuel recirculates back to tank right at the filter. There is no long round trip to the fuel injectors and back. Also its unlikely my car is delivering the correct voltage anyhow, ignoring the scenario where resistance/load was causing voltage sag, Im pretty sure measured voltage when running is barely 12v which will be way down on the best case 400LPH figure. Ive found other people complaining about AEMs Check Valves and I pulled it out this morning. There is no way I installed this correctly (it must be designed to be mounted into something, has banjo bolt holes etc) as I just plumbed it in as per normal check valve and fueling. As per complaints, its crazy restrictive too, 1.5mm opening and a stiff spring valve to open afterwards. The fact that even with the pump basically choked (/pressure must have been through the roof), nothing ruptured or popped off (noting these is just fuel hose o-ring tied to the ends of fuel rails and pump), Im less concerned now about this pump in this application.

Hah... maybe but I didnt think it was all that big power wise or that you could really go too big. Its rated from 35PSI to 70PSI and yeah, upto 1200hp... but crap maybe you are right. Its this one specifically: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/high-flow-fuel-pumps/400lph-metric-inline-high-flow-fuel-pump Current Draw (40 psi): 9.73 amps no check valve, 10.68 amps with check valve (13.5v) I also was of the view that the current would climb as the voltage dropped, but elsewhere people are saying no, current would drop if voltage drops because the (electrical) resistance is the same. But clearly, from experience if you restrict a pump/motor it gets hot and trips switches. Their own diagram suggests amps should be way lower at 40psi.. but perhaps thats irrelevant as its being so restricted. To further complicate matters, the M54 engine is returnless, as in no fuel returns from engine but instead is recirculated right at the fuel filter (beside pump) back to tank, regulated by the integrated FPR. Which, to my mechanics shame wasnt connected properly which was of course my core problem with the other (also aftermarket) pump. Which Im thinking due to your post will be going back in tomorrow morning.

Before it's suggested, this Model does not have it located beside the fuse box in engine bay!! Im actually running an M54b30 in it and I just put an AEM fuel pump (online type) in it. This worked but struggled to start so I added the supplied AEM check valve. And that's when problems arose! Car cut out about 5min from home. Got it towed back and found : - no power to pump - Fuse 4 was blown. This fuse is not associated with the fueling anywhere I've read. I had replaced it with one of those cheap plastic bodied bullet fuses..actually fuse had not blown but plastic got soft and scorched. - replaced fuse 4 and engine fires right up! But why did it blow? Overcurrent, overheated fuse. Temp on fuse is 91c if left idling. The ceramic fuses don't melt.. but the fuse box was getting hit and sticky! Voltage at pump is 8.4v, which means Amp current is way higher than the 11amps this pump is rated for and high current is high heat. Tried running a second ground wire to pump.. No change. The only other thing I can think of is to run new wires straight from battery via my own relay. Or check the exiting isn't but to do that properly it would be good to know where the pump relay is on this 1983 M30 525i Before it's suggested, this Model does not have it located beside the fuse box in engine bay!! Im actually running an M54b30 in it and I just put an AEM fuel pump (online type) in it. This worked but struggled to start so I added the supplied AEM check valve. And that's when problems arose! Car cut out about 5min from home. Got it towed back and found : no power to pump Fuse 4 was blown. This fuse is not associated with the fueling anywhere I've read. I had replaced it with one of those cheap plastic bodied bullet fuses..actually fuse had not blown but plastic got soft and scorched. - replaced fuse 4 and engine fires right up! But why did it blow? Overcurrent, overheated fuse. Temp on fuse is 91c if left idling. The ceramic fuses don't melt.. but the fuse box was getting hit and sticky! Voltage at pump is 8.4v, which means lots of resistance in that circuit and presumably high amps and therefore heat. Tried running a second ground wire to pump.. No change. The only other thing I can think of is to run new wires straight from battery via my own relay. Or check the exiting relay isn't broken. To to do that properly it would be good to know where the pump relay is on this 1983 M30 525i!? Before it's suggested, this model does not have it located beside the fuse box in engine bay!! Im actually running an M54b30 in it and I just put an AEM fuel pump (inline type) in it. This worked but struggled to start so I added the supplied AEM check valve. And that's when problems arose! Car cut out about 5min from home. Got it towed back and found : no power to pump Fuse 4 was blown. This fuse is not associated with the fueling anywhere I've read. I had replaced it with one of those cheap plastic bodied bullet fuses..actually fuse had not blown but plastic got soft and scorched. - replaced fuse 4 and engine fires right up! But why did it blow? Overcurrent, overheated fuse. Temp on fuse is 91c if left idling. The ceramic fuses don't melt.. but the fuse box was getting hit and sticky! Voltage at pump is 8.4v, which means lots of resistance in that circuit and presumably high amps and therefore heat. Tried running a second ground wire to pump.. No change. The only other thing I can think of is to run new wires straight from battery via my own relay. Or check the exiting relay isn't broken. To to do that properly it would be good to know where the pump relay is on this 1983 M30 525i!?

Nah, just cutting the part into the 4 sized pieces. I'll drill the holes. Well, that would have saved me about $100 if you were a few hours faster! I guess aluminium offcuts are like 8 times the price of steel..

Ok, went with Ulrich. Quote for 4x cut pieces of 10mm Aluminium was $157 plus GST. This was less than Altrus who also quoted. Wouldnt call it bugger all, but was was ok.

I use Fusion 360, so could lay it out.. But who does this service and supplies the plates etc?

Obviously I dont want to pay for a full 2.4m x 2.0m sheet but someplace selling cheap cuttoffs, ideally 4x 60x440mm plates of either 4mm (approx) steel or 10mm Aluminium?

Just got the call from them, $2200 to ship two front seats and the rear bench to Wellington, due to the size! I think at those prices buying seats in a drivable car would be an idea...

On the same note, shipping E32 Seats front and rear from Timaru to Wellington? Bulky and kinda heavy, what are my options?

I think you will have no issues selling it at all, as noted, desirable and rare even if the buying community isnt huge here in NZ. What colour is your Atto3? We saw one in Wellington last week, looked very nice.

Sold!

Just pulled these off my e28 to go with some BBS RC's. Set of 4. Appear to be original, German Ronal made AC Schniziter. 17", ET15 offset, 8.5" wide. Centre bore is 74mm so unless you have an E39 you will need spigot rings (centering rings). Those specs make them a good fit for everything from e28, e36, e34, E39 etc, but that's your responsibility. Bad bits: Paint job is OK, I bought them pre-painted as is. I don't know if it was the wheel or tyre wheel combo but I needed a lot of weight to balance them on the e28. Did balance out however. Location is Wellington. Asking for $900, these go for 2k online but these also aren't mint as noted!

After many idiotic Trade Me and Facebook interactions, sold to a genuine buyer!

Sold, with the car!

Still available!

Still available!

Still available!

Just confirming these are sold...?

Blurb from the maker: The Meister M1 3P is a true three piece modular construction wheel. Each wheel is constructed with our advanced forming outer and inner rim barrel with bolt on center disk. The advantage of three piece wheels are, strength, rebuildable and wider rim width. Very popular with larger sport coupe that require wider rim width. I have them since October; had them on the 550i GT (F07) and now on my F02 760Li. Amazing looking wheels, but since I'm selling the car I might do better selling these hard to get wheels separately (and stick the original BMW Individual wheels back on the 760Li). Previous owner had them on a BMW M4 (with a spacer for clear front brakes). Offsets are 15 Front, 25 Rear and sizes are (approx, actually hard to decipher Work Meisters partnumbers) 8.5" front and 9.5" rear. I'm also supplying the genuine (which were $450 a set) Work Meister Center Caps, which are an optional extra usually. Currently fitted with new Michelin PS4's (245-45-19 and 275-40-19) which are not supplied but available to buy too. These are stock tyre sizes for larger BMW like the 7. Asking: $3500. Location: Wellington (though Pack and Send is approx $330 shipped throughout NZ)

Just "downgraded" from this diff to a 2.65, but someone else might want to do the opposite! It's e34 spec but easily adaptable to e28 etc. I think it's something close to 3.46 ratio based on rpms and the fact it was sold as stock from e34 525i manual. Asking $200, same as I paid for the similar replacement. Located in wellington.