Kodachrome

Yeah without a link hard to say much, but Im wonder how they/you diagnosed the DME as the fault? Being such a new car (relatively) thats not a natural degradation of electronics but something like water damage or electrical issue elsewhere. I suspect physically replacing the DME is really easy... but getting one tuned to remove the EWS (immobiliser) is an issue to overcome. Maybe the original can be repaired but hard to know with no details.

Liyan just replied: "Hi. Helping owner to sell it" So angry old Bryan is the owner.. who wants $10k more than the helper does? lol.

That is what I thought too, but the more expensive listing is older and is the angry guy that replied to me!?

I have soft spot for X6's (yeah I know, I dont know why but always liked them) and was doing a bit of FB Marketplace browsing and found this: Listed 6wks ago: BMW X6M (though first photo is what I want to say is a of a classic Dodge Charger..) https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1333839477430410/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A138c21bb-c8e0-4406-9d42-b7b8c9aff8e6 Sold by a Bryan for $38,000 in Manawatu. And also this: 2. Listed 2wks ago: BMW X6. Same photos (bar the classic muscle car). https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3438944076428060/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A138c21bb-c8e0-4406-9d42-b7b8c9aff8e6 Sold by a Liyan for $26,500 in Auckland. So I messaged both sellers asking you know, wtf is going on. Got a nice reply from Bryan to makes me wonder if either are real listings..

Lol omg are you me? I had a 560sec and 850csi too! I paid £19k in the UK for my 850csi, you got a deal!

Remember when I sold my 1993 850CSi, V12, lower miles and factory manual here for less? And it wasnt like I had a lot of offers either. Wasnt NZ new mind you but IMO while I personally would rather a manual 840i if I got another E31, the 850CSi should be 2 to 3x the price of any of the other E31's. Super cool car but maybe Im also out of touch with the pricing these days.

Actually yeah, without stickers and (IMO) with just the red stripe I'd rock it. Would be a cool weekend/summer car too.

Sold!

Personally I dont know (though I know the E24 one is in the same spot) but people on the E28 forum say they are identical! https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=98057

Anyone? These are pretty useful for M5X engine conversions, suits a range of applications and unlike the OEM M54 type are way smaller.

Anyone keen? I might cut it up for parts otherwise!

Need to clear out my garage from my various seat experiments in the E28. Location: Wellington so pickup would be better. Have two front seats from (IRC) an E36 Coupe. They fit sedans too and oddly they will fit E28's (and presumably E34s etc) without an adapter plate. Full Electrics, Ive wired in an XT90 quick connect to make getting 12v into them easy. There was a tear on the driver side bolster that I have fixed, I just havent dyed it blue. Im sure I have blue dye here somewhere, welcome to it or Ill pop it on if I get a chance. Price: $300 or best offer. Also have the rear complete bench from an F20 MSport, in Alacantara (black with subtle blue threading). Price: $150 or best offer.

Pretty cool and a bit rare in NZ I imagine, though thats a 2.0 engine, the "3" comes in as its tuned from the base 120d, not actually the engine size.

Would look nicer if they swapped the front shocks and springs when at it to match the new rears height wise. I think this year is the better m73 version of the v12 too.

Sorry to clarify, it's on 3.5 bar fuel rail pressure, not boost.. Which would indeed be spectacular!

Ok, so tested without check valve installed: - 10.05v at pump (vs 8.3v with valve.. so a significant reduction in load on pump). 11.8v in the car on the USB adapter thing with the volt display (same fuse circuit), so the volt sag due to load is 1.75v.. which isn't terrible sounding. - 55c when idle on fuse (which ironically is worst case scenario for this circuit due to high load on pump via resistance) vs 91c+ - Drove it around in a mix of fast and slow and steep hill climbs etc. Runs so nice now. Temp on fuse is 42c after driving (and therefore has more airflow and less resistance in circuit. So.. maybe all is well? If I just remember to let the pump prime before cranking, maybe the lack of check valve wont be that annoying? PS: I definitely need an amp clamp! My multimeter has an amp mode but Im always afraid to use it as last time someone demo'ed it to me there were sparks..

Thanks again, I'm of two minds still despite what I said. Noted on AEM, this is the second pump as the first (more appropriately size, in tank version) was dead on arrival. I had only loosely knew the brand from years ago when they had a better rep. I got this model as "an upgrade" from the faulty one. On the plus side, the m54 is on 3.5bar, so over 50psi, so the delta isn't as big as feared.

Thats true and I agree generally, though in this implementation the excess fuel recirculates back to tank right at the filter. There is no long round trip to the fuel injectors and back. Also its unlikely my car is delivering the correct voltage anyhow, ignoring the scenario where resistance/load was causing voltage sag, Im pretty sure measured voltage when running is barely 12v which will be way down on the best case 400LPH figure. Ive found other people complaining about AEMs Check Valves and I pulled it out this morning. There is no way I installed this correctly (it must be designed to be mounted into something, has banjo bolt holes etc) as I just plumbed it in as per normal check valve and fueling. As per complaints, its crazy restrictive too, 1.5mm opening and a stiff spring valve to open afterwards. The fact that even with the pump basically choked (/pressure must have been through the roof), nothing ruptured or popped off (noting these is just fuel hose o-ring tied to the ends of fuel rails and pump), Im less concerned now about this pump in this application.

Hah... maybe but I didnt think it was all that big power wise or that you could really go too big. Its rated from 35PSI to 70PSI and yeah, upto 1200hp... but crap maybe you are right. Its this one specifically: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/high-flow-fuel-pumps/400lph-metric-inline-high-flow-fuel-pump Current Draw (40 psi): 9.73 amps no check valve, 10.68 amps with check valve (13.5v) I also was of the view that the current would climb as the voltage dropped, but elsewhere people are saying no, current would drop if voltage drops because the (electrical) resistance is the same. But clearly, from experience if you restrict a pump/motor it gets hot and trips switches. Their own diagram suggests amps should be way lower at 40psi.. but perhaps thats irrelevant as its being so restricted. To further complicate matters, the M54 engine is returnless, as in no fuel returns from engine but instead is recirculated right at the fuel filter (beside pump) back to tank, regulated by the integrated FPR. Which, to my mechanics shame wasnt connected properly which was of course my core problem with the other (also aftermarket) pump. Which Im thinking due to your post will be going back in tomorrow morning.

Before it's suggested, this Model does not have it located beside the fuse box in engine bay!! Im actually running an M54b30 in it and I just put an AEM fuel pump (online type) in it. This worked but struggled to start so I added the supplied AEM check valve. And that's when problems arose! Car cut out about 5min from home. Got it towed back and found : - no power to pump - Fuse 4 was blown. This fuse is not associated with the fueling anywhere I've read. I had replaced it with one of those cheap plastic bodied bullet fuses..actually fuse had not blown but plastic got soft and scorched. - replaced fuse 4 and engine fires right up! But why did it blow? Overcurrent, overheated fuse. Temp on fuse is 91c if left idling. The ceramic fuses don't melt.. but the fuse box was getting hit and sticky! Voltage at pump is 8.4v, which means Amp current is way higher than the 11amps this pump is rated for and high current is high heat. Tried running a second ground wire to pump.. No change. The only other thing I can think of is to run new wires straight from battery via my own relay. Or check the exiting isn't but to do that properly it would be good to know where the pump relay is on this 1983 M30 525i Before it's suggested, this Model does not have it located beside the fuse box in engine bay!! Im actually running an M54b30 in it and I just put an AEM fuel pump (online type) in it. This worked but struggled to start so I added the supplied AEM check valve. And that's when problems arose! Car cut out about 5min from home. Got it towed back and found : no power to pump Fuse 4 was blown. This fuse is not associated with the fueling anywhere I've read. I had replaced it with one of those cheap plastic bodied bullet fuses..actually fuse had not blown but plastic got soft and scorched. - replaced fuse 4 and engine fires right up! But why did it blow? Overcurrent, overheated fuse. Temp on fuse is 91c if left idling. The ceramic fuses don't melt.. but the fuse box was getting hit and sticky! Voltage at pump is 8.4v, which means lots of resistance in that circuit and presumably high amps and therefore heat. Tried running a second ground wire to pump.. No change. The only other thing I can think of is to run new wires straight from battery via my own relay. Or check the exiting relay isn't broken. To to do that properly it would be good to know where the pump relay is on this 1983 M30 525i!? Before it's suggested, this model does not have it located beside the fuse box in engine bay!! Im actually running an M54b30 in it and I just put an AEM fuel pump (inline type) in it. This worked but struggled to start so I added the supplied AEM check valve. And that's when problems arose! Car cut out about 5min from home. Got it towed back and found : no power to pump Fuse 4 was blown. This fuse is not associated with the fueling anywhere I've read. I had replaced it with one of those cheap plastic bodied bullet fuses..actually fuse had not blown but plastic got soft and scorched. - replaced fuse 4 and engine fires right up! But why did it blow? Overcurrent, overheated fuse. Temp on fuse is 91c if left idling. The ceramic fuses don't melt.. but the fuse box was getting hit and sticky! Voltage at pump is 8.4v, which means lots of resistance in that circuit and presumably high amps and therefore heat. Tried running a second ground wire to pump.. No change. The only other thing I can think of is to run new wires straight from battery via my own relay. Or check the exiting relay isn't broken. To to do that properly it would be good to know where the pump relay is on this 1983 M30 525i!?

Nah, just cutting the part into the 4 sized pieces. I'll drill the holes. Well, that would have saved me about $100 if you were a few hours faster! I guess aluminium offcuts are like 8 times the price of steel..

Ok, went with Ulrich. Quote for 4x cut pieces of 10mm Aluminium was $157 plus GST. This was less than Altrus who also quoted. Wouldnt call it bugger all, but was was ok.

I use Fusion 360, so could lay it out.. But who does this service and supplies the plates etc?

Obviously I dont want to pay for a full 2.4m x 2.0m sheet but someplace selling cheap cuttoffs, ideally 4x 60x440mm plates of either 4mm (approx) steel or 10mm Aluminium?

Just got the call from them, $2200 to ship two front seats and the rear bench to Wellington, due to the size! I think at those prices buying seats in a drivable car would be an idea...