aja540i

From what I understand the main issue is the size of the bearings, they have a very small surface area when compared to bearings from more run of the mill engines, and given that the red line is 8250 rpm they cop a bit of punishment. I have seen pictures of worse bearings from much lower mileage cars, so mine has probably been treated better than some, one careful lady owner, only driven to church on Sunday etc!

I belive the copper Is the first coating layer on the base metal, then lead, then a teflon type material, so almost through 3 layers In places.

About 160k.

the only thing that would make that photo better is if i had taken it, in my garage!

So, apparently got to this just in time, very light scoring on the crank but not enough to worry about, lower oil pump chain guide broken but still in place, bearings well used...

Specific requirements list; 1) Not a Granvia. 2)

Car is on a hoist with all the paraphenalia removed to allow the sump to fall off, found a leaking power steering hose so that is on its way from Germany, power pulley arrived yesterday so will be fitted at the same time, should help with the running in donuts! Also noticed some tired bushes in front suspension but will get those replaced at next service after bearings are run in.

yep, good ole slush box, better for smooth takeoffs and apparently that's what M5 owners are all about these days! Lets face it though, that auto will be orders of magnitude better than the old 4 speed in your dads Cortina.

Are you sure? my e36 had an issue after i changed the door handle, the new one was from an ews car, and if i didn't unlock the door with the key it would crank over until the battery died but wouldn't fire, if i unlocked the drivers door with the key or reached into the door and flicked a little switch on the handle housing it fired up straight away.

Because there's ALWAYS one !

Check the bottom of her handbag (if you dare)

Im pretty sure you mean E61 M5!

The amperage is only one of the variables to consider when welding panel steel (or anything) remember it has to be hot enough to melt the wire you are using! Total heat input is much more important and that involves energy input AND time elapsed, you can weld panel steel with a lot of energy input if you are fast enough. I don't think i have ever turned my mig to it's lowest setting and i have done a lot of patches in the E21.

You keep your man card, i will keep my $140 a week!

If there is a random black box under the dash or in the glovebox with a credi card size slot it will have an electronic toll system and it will be for that, pull it all out.

Co2 generally runs hotter and you get more splatter but If you are grinding your welds anyway It makes no difference, costs a fraction of what the argon mixes cost. Works fine for stop/start welding on thin sections.

I have had several BOC welders over the years and we currently have 3 at work, have never had a single issue with any of them, they are worth the extra money. If you are just learning and doing occasional stuff most chinese machines will be up to it, but the most important thing to look at is the duty cycle, they are based on 10 minutes so a 20% duty cycle means you can weld for 2 minutes in every 10, 40 % means 4 minutes welding etc. MIG welding generally uses an Argon / Co2 mix while TIG requires pure Argon which is a lot more expensive. I personally dislike flux cored wire welding so i recommend sticking with solid wire and shielding gas. flux cored is UGLY and smokey and generally not as strong. A 180 amp welder with a good duty cycle will do almost every job you need it to do.

I replaced the grilles on my 540i when I had the bonnet resprayed, got them from BMW and im sure they weren't that expensive, I have a vague recollection of maybe $80 each, although that might be just what I told my wife I paid!