pureboiracer

Better leave them in the hondas, stock cars go too fast enough to get hurt in....

it could be a blocked fuel filter, I doubt it would be a pump problem. Does your car have 1 or 2 pumps? It sounds to me like either the mesh on the pump pickup is blocked up or you were sucking up just enough air to not allow enough pressure to build to deliver fuel at high rpm.

i have an old factory wheel u can use

i have a locked small case diff, i welded 8 points of the spider gears with a mig welder, had it set up quite high and could see the spider gears melting as i was welding them, i dont think they will break in a hurry and will be good for what you want as they will flick the car a lot better.

yeah it sounds like a earth issue to me, your probably on the right track nath,

top stuff mate. How much was all that paint? So will i see you for rd1 in april?

Same reason humans have been at war since they existed. it would apear that the human race cannot put there differences aside. As much as it could help the situation... But yeah everyone just needs to relax a little and not jump and every remark made and have a cry about personal attacks because half the time it is just a miss understanding.

Hes a new member cut him a little slack. sheesh. He asks 'anyone knw whats going on?' because genuinely he doesn't, cue someone to try and help him. Not take the piss out of him, if this continues it will scare every new member away +1

a running engine requires facts. Fuel Air Compression Timing Spark. I assume that you have compression and timing. Air- check all vacuum lines and intake boot for any holes or rips, any air getting in past the air flow meter will cause problems. Check your afm is plugged in etc. Fuel- as silver fox said check for fuel getting to the rail. also remove a spark plug after trying to start it and see if it is wet or smells of fuel. Spark- while the plug is out to check for fuel do as silver fox said and check for spark, if no spark check you havnt knocked off the coil lead or anything.

give john a call 0276837251 i know he has got a tech 2 and will probs have most of what you need.

umm. please correct me if i am wrong but is this thread not as rotty1 said the exact thing we are all talking about? I agree that alot of flaming goes on on here. There are people on here with the height of arrogance and there are people who have nothing better to do than to bag people, but we can rant all we want, it wont change anything. You are always going to get those sorts of people. IMO i think we should just get on with it, I agree about not putting in your comments if they are completely useless and sometimes insulting, but i also think that some people read too deeply into the comments and they take offence to some people who are actually trying to help. The point i am making is there is always going to be flaming and differences in opinions but i think we should just get over it, and that no matter how smart we all think we are we should always keep an open mind about peoples opinions and ideas after all we all learn off eachother. constructive advice is one thing but bagging is just not needed. If you dont think someones idea will work or has a flaw say so in a constructive and fair way and mabey even offer an alternitive or atleast explain why you thought that.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/W...n-266182185.htm

so say extractors, cia, cam and chip was already done, would m50 injectors help?

have a source in sydney that can supply hard and soft nolathane bushes for rear subrame and can do solid mount kits too. will get back to you with prices etc

is that a boot spoiler upside down underneath it?

As in title, preffer with throttle body and injectors and all that. Cheers Oli edit: sorry forgot to say for m50b25

yeah but not for windows. too expensivenfor budget at the moment

hey guys. need a sheet of perspecs or similar plastic around 10" by 10" and preffer about2-3mm thick. anyone got any bits lying around? cheers oli

umm usually the tinting is done on the inside of the windows, im not sure about the rear screen. my rear screen has no gaps or anything around it. if it looks like it is odviously a sh*t job then get him to redo it.

yeap tyres all sorted now. and no problem at all.

yeah ive got some fastwax somewhere that is supposed to do that but i seem to have misplaced it.

custom drive shaft, custom exhaust, custom intercooler piping, wiring in engine management system, custom engine and gearbox mounts, mabey cutting a hole in the tunnel for the selector, custom radiator mounting or piping depending on what radiator you choose, some decent brakes and suspension so you dont stack it the 1st day you drive it, lsd to put the power down, maby different brake booster, Cant think of anything else off the top of my head but im sure there is more.

Go see greg at mp auto parts in upper hutt. he did my racecar one and alans one. Depending on what you get its between 300 to 500 if you give him a clutch to do it with. I would reccommend a organic clutch lining and maby beefing your pressure plate up an extra 300lb i think they are 1500lb iirc

put in some irridiums. ( I think thats how its spelt.) they will last longer, although more expensive. But it means longer between messing around changing them.

Hey guys, The pads in my e30 at the moment are as dusty as hell. I have to clean the blackness off my wheels about every 2 days. im not sure the type of pads in it at the moment. Can anyone recommend a pad that isnt all that dusty? Cheers Oli