pureboiracer

Hi, can anyone tell me what these two solenoid type things are?. They are located on the side of the airbox on a ljet pfl 320. There are 3 vacuum hoses and a 2 pin plug that connects to them? A picture can be fo und here. https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/Public/2011-....jpg?w=2cb0b572 Cheers oli

Be carefull about bidding on this auction, the sale may be revoked as it may be found to breach the T.O.W

Had a lol at this too.

OHHHHH when?

its either your starter or earth, put a multi meter on the body of the starter and somewhere on the car, you should have continuity, (put your multimeter on the continuity setting, a little diod looking thing, or the lowest resistance setting.) If you have continuity your earths fine, then it will be the starter, ( also put a multi meter across your battery+ and the terminal on the back of the starter, that should also have continuity.)

Hey guys, im sitting on a bit of stuff outside of the country that i may consider selling here, was just wondering what the interest in it was. I have some performance ecu chips for bmw e30's in new condition that suit ecu numbers 172 and 173. They raise the rev limit by 500 and claim 12-15hp $120 I will update this as i go through it and find more stuff. If you are interested pm me. Cheers Oli

Hey guys, My e34 540 has developed a loud rattle/knock. It sounds like something is rattling rather loudly underneath the center console around the handbrake area, i removed the center console and it is still there, ive determined that its coming from under the car in the trans tunnel area, it sounds like a metal bracket is hitting the tunnel under certain acceleration points. The knock occurs when accelerating, up hills, from a stop etc. its not usually there when at constant speed on a flat. My first thoughts here are a worn hanger bearing causing the driveshaft or the hanger to slap about. The car goes on a hoist on wed so i will check out the driveshaft then, i was just wondering if there was anything else around that area that could or has been known to cause a similar sound? Cheers Oli

yeah i will do all that... all in good time.

bumpage..

sure do, now ive just got to do the same for the back... one day...

Have just fitted the kit in the link to the e34, all shaking (and i mean this was serious shaking.) is now gone, all the bits i replaced where completely trashed. the kit comes with all the bits you need, and looks to be decent quality, everything fits exactly right and it drives a million times better now.

Take your old ones to contour brakes they can make some. Dont forget the exchange rates looking pretty good at the mo.

ahh so you were the one who snapped them up so fast, http://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-E34/c-...rake-lines.aspx I recommend the motul brake fluid, i cannot recall the name, something 5000 or 6000 but its dot5.1 never had a problem with any of the racecars ive dealt with. You can get it at brake and trans in the hutt on downer st. Abs wont be an issue

the profile of a tyre is calculated as a percentage of the tread width so a wider tyre will require a smaller profile percentage ie 205-55 or 225-45. but yeah if any says a tech showed him then i would roll with that. just run a smaller width tyre.

leads and coil pack, they always crap out.

coming from a ford mechanic.... have fun with your new car, you will be fixing it lots.

Check out listings. Selling e30 body kit, Koni adjustable shocks, Momo Steering wheel. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=393976214 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=393976654 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=393977269 Edit: Also have a manual pedal box if anyone is interested $50

saw NO GOD parked outside the behive looking expensive...

yes air in the system can cause this problem, you will need to bleed the cooling system there should be a little plastic screw in the top of the radiator that takes a philips screw driver. run the car, with the heater turned on hot, undo this screw to release air from the system, there should be some good online instructions if you are unsure of this, keep doing this until no more air bubbles are appearing, check the hoses by touch and see if they are hot or cold, if there is no more air in the system and the hose leading from the engine to the unit is hot and the others are cold then the unit is stuck, if the hose leading to the unit is cold then there is either more air in the system or a blockage problem.

the heater valve is the unit that the heater pipes go into just before they go past the firewall (inside the car.) if you look under the bonnnet, near the bottom of the windscreen (the back of the motor) it is on the passenger side, fairly close to the motor, there will be 2 or three rubber coolant pipes going into the car. the unit which they all go into is the valve unit, I susspect that there is a blockage or air in the system if it has only done it after the repair, take it back to the repairer as it is a related isssue to the repair.

i would imagine when the rocker broke it hit the valve in a way it didnt like, causing damage to it just at the base of the stem, then this created a weak point that eventually broke off.

^in that case i recommend your local bmw or euro specialised workshop, they will be able to scan the computer and find any faults that may exist with any engine sensors, a cost for a scan will be minimal but if there is something wrong then they will be able to give you an idea of the cost to fix.

It can be as expensive as you want... By "tune up" i assume you mean a good thorough service? ie, oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, check coils, gearbox and diff oil change, coolant and brake fluid change etc... For the above i would estimate around $600 depending on where you went and what needed to be done. If you want it done right, drive into the city to some well known trustworthy mechanic, not your local back yarder.

no, and yes.

When it is running try (carefully) pulling a lead off a spark plug one at a time, if the engine rythm or noise changes then its ok, if there is one that you can pull off without making any effect to the engine (or substancially less than the others,) then that is the cylinder that is missfiring. if you can put it down to one cylinder then the injector would be the 1st place to look providing its getting spark ok. If none of the cylinders are able to be singled out then start looking at the other stuff.