pureboiracer

i would suggest checking all the cold start system. looking for air leaks etc. How does it run when cold and idleing? This sounds like a problem with either your intake or for some reason the air fuel mix goes up the shoot when warm.

i say the cop should have just mowed them down llike the dogs they are

can put it in every gear without the clutch while the engine runs? sounds like you may have snapped something on the input side of the gearbox

adding to the respect thing, i have seen cops do quite a few things and have noticed they quite often have double standards. ie. i was walking up the street the other night about 11 at night. i heard this car screaming round the corner, along comes a cop. doing around 80 to 90 in a 50. rips up the handbrake and does a u.e in the middle of the street and leaves abit of smoke as he leaves. no lights no sirens nothing. and a few times in courtney place where they take a situation and blow it right out of proportion beating the s***t out of someone who was trying to brake up a fight. but i guess it is a case of a few ruin it for the rest. but i can understand why they are not respected

if it is the thermostat staying closed when its hot one radaitor pipe will be hot and the other will be stone cold. this sounds like the most likely cause to me.

Be sure you havent got a big air leak somewhere. Spray brake cleaner or ether around every vacume hose you can find, around the manifold, throttle body etc etc. Failing that remove the afm check it is not bent or damaged. also check it is the right one for the computer you have.

so who is going? me and the mrs got tickets in the grandstand for the whole weekend.

I got given a bmw 7 series book for xmas. I am reading it at the moment. it has just about all the random history and info on Bavarian Motor Works you could ever ask for.

We were also acused of stealing a pair of designer sunglasses once when the customer left them in one of our courtesy cars. I always silicon tyres of cars i am working on. it just makes it look so much nicer. but never perfume it as i have heard of some customers being alergic to the smell. In defence of the sticker part, I have seen cars come in for there 1st service at 45k before. When ask why so late they say they could no longer read the sticker so never bothered to bring it in for service (goodbye warranty).

what motor is it for?

it would be alot cheaper to just get another ecu and try it

come on guys. this is a complete manual conversion. and its cheap as i have no room for it.

any offers. it must go

whats 'rio'???

Includes getrag240 gearbox. Master and slave cylinders. CLutch pedal. Hydrolic line. Drive shaft. Selector. Clutch and fly wheel. Will suit any 6 cylinder that doesn't require crank sensor on fly wheel. $400

bump

hey guys. how much oil do i put in my n42b20 in my e46?

hey guys. i just got some adjustable koni shocks for the front of my e30. thanks oli. i have king springs at the moment. the car is going to be used for drifting and track events. its almost got the turbo setup finished. would it be worth while me making the front struts adjustable height with a 2.5" spring and a weld on spring perch or is it more hassle than its worth?

sounds like a possible air leak to me

its a red manual 520i 1983. blew head gasket but rest of car is fine. anyone want any bits there all going really cheap. let me know what you want

the only real differences depend on weather you use a motronic system or jet tronic system. i have a jettronic in mine atm using a 322 ecu. goes fine. still does (did) 3rd gear slides fairly easily. if you put the motronic setup in everything is different. different pullys, afm, loom, coolant hoses and bottle if you go that way. and you have to splice the loom plug by the fuse box. make sure you got the right wires in right places. the colours should just about match. in the shell itself theres no real differences.

was a 520i so i asum thats the little 6. its basicaly a m20 motor from what ive seen of it

step one. spray some brake cleaner or something like that. mabey ether around the intake manifold and vacume lines. listen for a slight change in engine tone to indicate an airleak. step two. providing you dont have any air leaks remove the fuel line nearest the fire wall part of the rail. this is your inlet hose. put a fuel pressure guage on here. if you dont have on find someone that does. then turn ign on but dont start motor and see what pressure you get. this will determine your pump condition. refer to manual for propper specs. step three. remove the other fuel line. the return line from the regulator. check there is fuel coming out. . put a midyvac on the vacume hose to the regulator. apply some vacume and see if it holds it. if you dont have a midyvac suck on the hose and see if you get a mouth full of fuel. step four. check your base idle. you cannot set this with any other engine faults or else it will all be up the shoot. refer to manual on how to as i cant acuratly remember. step five. once all other steps are complete throw a timing light on. i think the timing specs are around 20 deg and 5000rpm or something. again refer to the manual to make sure. step six. if this does not fix it give it to someone who knows abit more than me or you

as in title. still in car so can strip as much as wanted. all in good nick. 600 for complete conversion

front e30 bilsteins. only about 2 years old. the bigger 51mm ones. set of shock inserts only. what they worth? i will have them for sale in feb