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charles28

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Everything posted by charles28

  1. Well.. i ended up buying a 2002 530i Motorsport in Silver with NZ Navigation etc and get it tomorrow. Its got enough power, a good upgrade from the 525i. It looked like my pockets were not going to be deep enough for a 540i
  2. Finally i'm selling my 525i to buy a 540i. I feel the need to own a V8. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=761436392 Price as per auction details Cheers
  3. Why not pay a little more and get one with 1/3rd the k's? Its still an old car now.. seems to share some suspension parts with the E39. I thought about buying one, but the back end is too ugly.. although I find they don't look as bad in black. A facelift Motorsport one I could live with though.
  4. You can, but don't do it. They sound terrible.. my last E30 had them installed with spacers.
  5. Get it scanned, make sure there's no NOX sensor faults, tis $1200 + GST for the part only.
  6. What about all those Chassis bits you can buy from Turner Motorsport? Ie like: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1361-e36-3-series-complete-turner-motorsport-reinforcement-package.aspx
  7. I found that those engines have a flat spot from 700 - 6500 RPM The only way to fix it is install a turbo or supercharger of course. But jokes aside, as said, you need to get it scanned, it might need a camshaft sensor, new MAF, coil pack, anythings possible
  8. yeah, an E90 323i, 325i or something, or an E60 530i Well thats what i'll probably go for next time round. Yeah I was a little worried about having a DSG Gearbox, but had a mechanical warranty just in case.
  9. I chose a Mk5 Golf GTI over the 1 Series, seemed to be a better car overall and Jeremy Clarkson thought so too. But I got sick of the road noise, ended up with another E39, all those smaller cars are cheap and plasticy when it comes to refinement etc. The 1 and 3 series models can't compare to the 5 Series build quality and refinement wise. How much fuel will you really save? I can't imagine much.
  10. Mines still looking quite Mint for its age.
  11. Its not really that bad, its just old.. just a lot of little wear and tear things.. Coolant hoses, heater core, just had the steering rack rebuilt as it was leaking, needs new strut top mounts etc. nothing too costly. Just had the ABS ECU Re-soldered internally. Its not as good as the newer MK5 Golf GTI I had, but its got more character, it still goes well enough for an old car. Its using an average of 10.5L/100k, my E39 525i averages 11.3L/100k on the same drive, yet has a smaller engine..
  12. I know all about it, I have a Mk3 Golf VR6, probably the most unreliable of them all
  13. It will need a new Thermostat, it will be stuck open basically.. just about every VW i've owned has needed this replaced. It will be hurting your fuel economy also, as the ECU will be adjusting things to run rich due to it thinking that the engine isn't warmed up.
  14. Way too cheap, could have fixed it all up for $800 and it'll last another 10 years hehe
  15. Hmm its a tough one really.. I've been looking at Merc C55 AMG's, smaller then the E Class.. 4.5m long.. so basically Similar size to E90 3 Series.. but 360hp 5.5L V8
  16. Naa, they all Slurp just get the V8, it doesn't use much more The E60 530i has 3 engine types depending on year, the 2003-2005 has the same engine as you have now, but a 6 speed auto. But in reality that model won't be much better then what you have, maybe 1-2 %? Buy a brand new Renault Clio 900cc Turbo, 4.5L.100k Those WRX's etc all use about 10-11L/100k, Mazda MPS maybe a little better, but not much. My E39 525ia uses 50L for 442k's and 1/2 of that is open road.
  17. Hmm i just had a steering rack reconditioned for $350 + gst ( A Golf VR6) So the used price doesn't seem great? you may have to call around and ask some places for prices? plenty of Forum members on here that sell parts.
  18. I actually like that its LHD, as it was how an E36 was designed to be. The price is ok if its good, its easy to buy a rough one for 10k, but you can easily spend another 10k making it decent.
  19. Its all good, it won't be as bad as the VW Golf VR6 i just purchased from Blenheim and had shipped down on a truck
  20. I guess you checked, but make sure there's no finance owing..
  21. Tomorrow i'll bleed them and see if it helps..thanks for the advice guys. Will visit supercheap/repco etc to find a one man bleeding device..
  22. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bavarian-Autosport-European-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-With-Catch-Bottle-/221397396542?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338c502c3e&vxp=mtr if only I could find something like this locally..
  23. I'm getting this odd issue. My car goes and stops fine for the most part, however once I've been in heavy slow moving (almost not moving) traffic for 20mins or so, I get this issue with the brakes grabbing, when this happens, the car barely moves when you take your foot off the brake (when in Drive). usually it'll move along at a good 5km per hour or so without your foot on the accelerator. Its also hard to get the car moving, as its fighting the brakes when this issue occurs. If you get it moving and let it coast along in drive, you can feel the brakes being applied on and off, almost like a pulsating, you really can feel the brakes being applied. It only does this while stuck in traffic, but once your going over 40km per hour it seems to come right again, but will quickly play up again when stuck in traffic straight away. However drive it on the open road for 10mins at 100k and the issue has gone when you come to a standstill and move off again...no more feeling of the brakes being applied and the car will coast along at its normal rate. To me after a good run the wheels on the passenger side of the car feel warmer then the drivers side, which also seems odd. Where should I start?. replace brake fluid and see what happens?
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