rogan

Sounds like the 6cyl diesel would be the one to get. We have a 530d F10 and it’s been great; i’d take it over any of the F10 petrols. Go test drive an F31 330/335d .

Just seen this at repco https://www.repco.co.nz/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/gulf-western-euro-energy-5w30-engine-oil-5l/p/A6096478?kwSearch=5w30 Any issues using this in a 116i (N13) ?

My mum has some trousers in the same fabric, but I can’t picture her in a M5. A Honda Jazz with that interior might sell well tho.

Thanks for the offer. I have brutal kerbs outside my house and am surrounded by judder bars. I need to remember this is my kids learn to drive car so probably best I stick to 16s. Less kerbing and cheaper to replace. those style 383 do make me doubt my decision tho.

How were 17 runflats on msport suspension? I went from 18 non rft (budget tyres) to 16 rft. Like the comfort but they dont really look right.

Those have been on TM for about a year. Could be worth a cheeky offer.

Yep, 2 a day i get, but 157kmh???

Organisational failure saw Environment Canterbury fail to reprimand the chairperson after he clocked almost 700 speeding incidents. That's what the council are saying after chairperson Peter Scott, who has now stepped down, exceeded the speed limit in a council-provided car 678 times since January, with a top speed of 157km/h. https://www.1news.co.nz/2024/10/11/how-678-speeding-violations-by-the-boss-went-unnoticed-at-ecan/

What’s the TAB odds on Army completing the trifecta of stuff ups?

Anyone have any experience with wideband drivers. I’m intrigued by these https://www.esbcar.com/3000-series-components/3-65 $250-$300 for a pair I have my tweeters in the dash corners at the bottom of the A-pillars vertically on axis and horizontally slightly toed in. Very happy with the way they sound. But not really happy with the midrange in the doors as the left and right have really different sound profiles due to location and axis. So thinking the ESBs in custom pods in the bottom of the A pillar angled like the tweeters are now. Pods would be vented into the dash. If they can play 200hz up and tweeterless then I can go straight from the underseat 8s to these and get all vocals point sourced. Think next step is to get a 40mm length of 75mm PVC pipe and get an idea of how they’d fit into the base of the A-pillar.

https://www.stuff.co.nz/nz-news/350441849/hmnzs-manawanui-what-happened-after-ship-ran-aground how does the ship that’s surveying the sea floor run aground ??

I kick the front bottom of my door panel every time i get into or out of my F20. Those mids would be trashed within a week.

One more piece of the puzzle nearly finished. Sub not in cos the bolts were too short to reach the T nuts. Will be at Bunnings first thing tomorrow.

Audison AP8.9bit is now in the car and working well. My one piece of major advice is: Never ever ever update Audison DSP firmware unless there is no other option !!! When first installed, I updated the firmware thinking that would give me the latest and greatest hardware and also remove all previous user setting. The firmware failed and it's taken me most of the last 2 weeks to get it back running. I talked to Audison (Italy), and the Aussie Audison rep - neither could fix the issue. Researched google - lots of Audison firmware update horror stories; thought I had bricked it. Not idea why, but when I used a different laptop I was able to update the firmware and get it running. Set up: Channels 1& 2 - tweeters 35rms x2 Channels 3&4 - midrange 35rms x2 Channels 5&6 and 7&8 bridged - midbass 130rms x2 Channel 9 - pre out to sub. Haven't started tuning it yet, just got it running. Sounds decent already. Interesting it analysed the base headunit's front output and decided it didn't need de-equalisation.

Got bitten by upgraditis. found an Audison Ap8.9 bit dsp on trademe. 8x 35rms (no preamp output). 9th channel is sub preout. https://audison.com/product/ap8-9-bit/ so thinking channel each for front tweeters and mids 4x35rms. Bridge channels for underseats 130rms x2. Preout to sub in boot. Rear speakers running off headunit. Sub: - 60 underseats: 60 - 175 mids: 175 - 5k tweeters: 5k + other option is use it as 8x 35rms to include the rears. If the 35rms isn’t enough on the underseats then can add something like this https://www.superimports.co.nz/brands/zeroflex/zeroflex-efx-4-5/ would bridge so 160rms available to each underseat. or use my existing Kicker key 200.4 to run 50rms to underseats and mids. Note the 200.4 is only 4ohm stable and not bridgeable. The dsp only has speaker outputs (no preout) on the 8 channels so any add on amp needs hi level inputs. Currently have 50rms to each underseat which is more than enough for me but they play 60ish-500hz so they screw the sq when given power. once i can limit them to 60-175ish then i wonder if 35rms will be enough or whether I’ll want more. Any thoughts?

My F20 had condensation in a headlight. Issue was water running down the side bonnet drain and onto the top of the headlight. Ot got into the headlight through a gap between the housing and the lens. I siliconed mine up but maybe this is a cheap fix?

Late to the party, but my go to is JP Tyres in Porana Rd.

Ive got the sub out of phase. It was cancelling out the underseats. Im still doing the odd tweak but happy with where i’m at. need to figure out an enclosure for the sub. Current enclsure is solid but doesnt work practically with the boot space. In future i may move the tweeter from door sails to bottom of A piilar facing up into windscreen.

Bought the dongle and a bimmercode licence. Changed to hifi, changed to sa_audio_variant1. Didn’t affect the headunit output level - and there was no option for internal /external amplifier. There’s 4 eq options: default and sa_audio_variant1 to 3. All have slight differences but none are spectacular. At the moment i’ve settled on variant1 with a slight amp gain increase on the underseat speakers. I need to have a better play with the sub to get it blending better - thinking lower crossover and reduce amp gain. Really happy with Bimmercode. Simple to hook up and use. Made the normal changes, and have changed a few things on the wifes car. Trying to figure out how to increase the indicator flash from three to five. My options are “einmal” which flashes 3 times (!!!) or custom value. Tried “04” but that did nothing. Might have another play.and try “dreimal” which is 3 flahes on some other models. On the wifes F10 those options are in English and numerical: so much easier.

Thanks Olaf & Neal. Bimmercode or bimmerutility?? I downloaded bimmercode and opened the demo. When I go to supported coding options for F20, audio needs hu_nbt, but I think mine is hu_champ Price wise, by the time I get a BT dongle thingy, I’m most of the way to the bimmerutility licence but then need to get the enet cable. Regarding phase changes, I tried flipping both teeeters out of phase, flipping a midrange, flipping an underseat. All sounded better wired in phase. The kicker key amp has a one auto set up button. There’s no way to adjust TA/dsp manually. Realistically I can only use gains to adjust the fader between underseat and doors. The door components have a basic passive xover with 0/-3db option only. Have them at -3. Although the amp has very limited tuning, I’m quite happy with that having spent endless hours tuning previous car stereos. Inability to tinker will hopefully cure my upgraditis.

Found this relating to a 2014 F10: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/bmw-audio-coding-non-most.437890/post-5939879 “There is one setting delivering a useful output: Coding: Hifi, internal amp, audio offset on, audio var 2, audio profile 1” Still trying to find something on a F20.

Long time since I’ve posted. 2014 NZ 116i CIC headunit with base audio. Door 4” and underseat 8” were powered directly from head unit. Likewise rear 4”. i’ve upgraded the door speakers to Focal IS BMW 100L ( ie 4” and tweeter). Underseat speakers upgraded to Focal isub 4. underseats and door speakers are biamped off a Kicker Key 200.4. Rears still running off the head unit. Image Dynamics IDQ12 in the boot powered by a Kicker Key 500.1 with remote in the ciggie lighter socket. Both amps use the hi level front output from the headunit. The Kicker 200.4 has onboard DSP - auto time alignment, eq, crossovers but there’s no flexibility to customise. Sound is good with auto eq but it’s a bit tweeter heavy and the mid bass / midrange is a bit out. From what I’ve read the base audio has boosted treble to make up for the lack of tweeters. Looking for someone in Auckland who can code and adjust the setting to remove the treble boost. At the same time I’d like to get the start-up legal disclaimer removed. spoke to Audiocity but they didn’t inspire confidence. Spoke to Autogravity but although they could code, they needed me to supply the codes to change. Any recommendations. Any help much appreciated.

In that budget range, I'd be looking for something like 1998-2001 Corolla liftback bugeye Like this but find a private seller http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/...n-634866867.htm

Aaahhhhh. That's the one. I was so busy vomitting in my own mouth I couldn't remember what colour it was. I think it has fluoro mags as well now

Nothing could fail like the fluoro pink and white 7 series I was unfortunate enough to see at Harvey Normans wairau Rd the other weekend. Would make a Multipla look good.