rogan

Does your e30 have the separate fader control in the dash. If it does and you haven't bypassed it then you might have the wrong ohms for the headunit.

As per frantiC, sounds like poor grounding to me

Couple of options: 1. Get Parrot BT system which can stream music and hook up to headunit. 2. Get a simple sunvisor type bluetooth clip on thingy. 3. Get an integrated headunit that does the lot. My pick would be to import a JVC R800 from ebay which has USB, ipod, BT built in. The BT works pretty well but it's probably not as good as a dedicated Parrot system. Should be under NZ$300 landed and will do everything you want except Nav. It's a risk buying off ebay but I've done it with my headie and am very happy with the serice and delivery. Stay with a vendor who has good feedback and you minimise the risk. IMO go with a separate NAV system. They scream steal me and I don't know how good a single din Nav would be. We run a Navman and I like being able to shove it away out of sight since we don't need it that often, and then only hook it up when needed.

Ring Eds (09) 550 7256. If anyone will have one, they will. They supply adapters to shops all over NZ (including DeeCee) See if they have an ISO to Nakamichi adapter. If they do it'll be about $8-$10. You'll also need the BMW to ISO harness (might be part number PC2-05-4 )which might be a bit more. Then it's plug together and off you go. They don't have eftpos or take c/c, so cash or cheque only. If you can't find a Naka harness, I think Kenwwod had a 14pin harness simliar to your one PC2-05-4 looks like this Headunit owners manual is here http://www.nakremotes.com/Geo/Nak%20CD-45z.pdf Pin-out as follows (found this on the net, may or maynot be correct) TOP /-------------------------\ [ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ] [ 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 ] 1.Blue = Remote on 2.Yellow = Battery 3.Red = ACC 4.Grey/blk = Frt R Spkr (-) 5.Grey = Frt R Spkr (+) 6.Purple/blk = Rear R Spkr (-) 7.Purple = Rear R Spkr (+) 8.Black = Ground (neg) 9.blank (not assigned) 10.Blue = Power Attenna 11.White/blk = Frt L Spkr (-) 12.White = Frt L Spkr (+) 13.Green/blk = Rear L Spkr (-) 14.Green = Rear L Spkr (+) If you can't find a harness anywhere then look into the connectors used in computers. Have a look at this site http://stereophonik.com/gutterslide/IP-BUS_Hack/ which shows you the connectors I'm talking about.

For adaptors, go to edsauto.co.nz http://www.edsauto.co.nz/index.html Their products part of the site seems to be down at the moment. They'll have evertything you need.

1. Budget? 2. What type of music do you listen to? 3. Bluetooth for phone?

Depending on budget, also think about bluetooth since this new law's coming in. One option would be to get a BT integrated headunit. Guessing you'd be looking over $300 for a bt capable unit

Why bother with a tape deck or a stacker. Get something that can play MP3 and it's 10 times better than a stacker. Consider USB or ipod inputs too. Once you get it, have a talk to these guys and see what harnesses you'll need to hook it up. Much simpler than solder and a very easy DIY www.edsauto.co.nz BMW stuff is on page5 of their catalog http://www.edsauto.co.nz/images/PDF_Catalogue/Pages1-9.pdf You'd need a BMW to ISO, then ISO to whatever unit you end up buying. Might need an aerial interface too. Here's some cheapies that would probably do the trick: JVC G465, has wma/mp3, plain black face and says multicolor illumination. Looks like the cage is included (that's the bent tabs you can see in the pic). Presume it's NZ radio but worth asking the question. Can't make it out in the pic but might be missing the plastic surround (new one wouldn't cost more than $10 I guess). *edit - have put questions on TM re FM and surround* http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-245172793.htm Basic Panasonic. Presume it's all there. Think the W in the model number means NZ radio http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-244964821.htm Another basic JVC unit http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-246041917.htm A tape deck unit is not worth anything now cos 99.99% of people don't want them. If you're happy with no CD then ring up your local car audio shop and see if they've got one lying around that they've pulled out of car. Might cost you a dozen beer.

Does your e30 have the fader control above where the stereo was. If so you can get your speaker wires from that and save your having to run new wires.

What you tend to pick up are rattles from panels that localise where the bass is coming from. Generally you can pick the direction of frequencies above about 160hz. The lower you play your sub, the harder it is to pick where it's coming from. The problem is that it's very hard to stop rattles and that's what you'll be able to identify. The constructive and destructive interference is somtimes called combing. Some point subs into a corner (corner loading) with the aim being the amplify the wave by combining the primary wave with the reflected wave. I've never noticed muddiness being a result, but positioning of the sub has a big effect on amplitude of the signal in the cabin. What tends to happen with alot of car is that subs are played too high and even crossed over at 80hz there's still going to be higher frequencies going through it as a result of the crossover slope (usually -12db/octave). In a nutshell, the better midbass you have upfront, the better your sub will blend into your cabin

Re RCAs, depends on your amps. If one of the amps has input and output RCAs terminals then you can just have one pair from headie to amp and then another short pair from that amp to the other. RCA output from the headunit must be full range and you use the crossovers on the amps to split the frequencies. No problem running more than 1 amp off a single power cable. For the power you have a single run of 4awg wire should be plenty. For a 5 metre length 4awg should handle up to about 1000rms. You'll need a distribution block (just a cheap one) to split the power wire for two amps. As said above, just daisy chain the remote-on wire. Welding cable is much cheaper than car audio specific cable and probably better too (more flexible and double insulated)

Freeair and Infinite Baffle (IB) are pretty much the same thing. I have a pair of 12s in my e39 boot and have enough space for a 3 wheeler pram.From a e36 M3 in the US: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...1946&page=8 Excuse ignorance, what's the difference?

Yep, bolted to the wall. All you're doing is sealing off the front of the sub from the back. Don't understand what you're saying.Having the magnet side of the sub facing forward or backward doesn't make any tangible sound quality difference.

AFAIK you can't just use any sub for IB, you need one that's been designed so it can run that way. IB will generally tend to give you much more low end (say 20-50hz) with about a slight drop in higher end (say 50-100hz). I've only tried one IB set up and the sub sounded better than when it was in a sealed enclosure. Downside is you can't put as much power into the sub - say you have a 500rms sub then in IB you wouldn't want to give it more than about 350rms.

If you're looking for space saving then get an Infinite Baffle sub and mount it on a board over the ski hole. Like this: Most BMWs are perfect for IB as the boots are so well sealed from the cabin.

That CP600BMW looks like a fantastic system.

I wasn't sure if I was going to need a blocking diode but was going to whack one in just in case. Woud I need a 5v relay like this one http://www.dse.co.nz/dse.shop/4a9dac82008e...duct/View/P8005 or can I use a normal 12v relay (guessing 12v won't work)? Just re-read your post, so the wires from the LCM to bulbs are 12v and this is the place to tap into them. Thanks heaps Next question, is it the same sort of set up in an e46 cos I'll probably do the wife's car too

Going to hardwire my gate remote into the e39 and use the high beam to activate it. Will be using a constant to momentary output circuit like this one: http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#ctm Anyone know where I can easily tap into a 12V+ highbeam that won't give me error messages about blown bulbs etc? Thanks

Here's the guide for installing BSW speakers, should help you through how to remove your existing speakers and replace them http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/product-...-_E46_Sedan.pdf If you're not looking for big bass that booms then I'd find some factory speakers. The speakers are mounted in an odd baffle so you can't simply chuck some aftermarket speakers in there. You're never going to get big bass from small front components unless you spend a fait whack of diy time and money improving the front doors as an enclosure. Even then you'd be better off directing that cash to a sub and amp. Speak to someone like Ray at HellBM and see if he's got any front speakers in stock 021 2 HELL BM (021 2435526)

AFAIK the holders are on the sides, is there any way of popping the clock out and having a look from the side

Surprisingly you can put CDs in the DVD shuttle! 2 changers cos they were cheap on trademe. There's another optical CD shuttle somewhere in my garage too! The bad part is there's only one optical input for the shuttles into the processor and the DVD takes that under the ai-net protocol. I should pull the dvd shuttle out, would give me somewhere to hide the tyreweld cans.

Horn loaded compression drivers otherwise known as HLCDs. In very simple terms, they're a type of tweeter, but completely different to a tweeter! They play 1khz up as opposed to tweeters which are usually say 4khz up, and are hugely efficient. Downside is that some people just don't like the way they sound. They were popular in high end car audio in the US in the early to late 1990s but aren't common anymore.

Just about finished this install now so time for a quick highlights tour. 16 months in the making, would have been heaps quicker if I wasn't under the thumb. Front end: Alpine IVA-W202 (note the bezel has been replaced since as this one was unpainted) Processor and amps: Alpine H701 processor Image Dynamics ID Q450.4 for horns and rears 2x ID Q700.2 for midbass 2x ID Q1200.1 for subs Horns: ID CD2pro Midbass: ID X69 Big thanks to the guys at Rapid for making the pods Subs: 2 x IDMax12 dual 4 in trunk baffle Shuttles: Alpine optical DVD and CD shuttles

And the bigger the speaker, the more volume of air is needed in the enclosure (generally). Trying to get sufficient enclosure for the 8s in the kicks will be difficult unless you cut metal and go an infinite baffle route. If in the doors, you wouldn't mount them to the door cards, you'd build pods to mount them to the frame, then seal and deaden the doors.5.25s in the kicks isn't an option for everyone. My feet and legs are too big but for normal sized people this isn't really an issue. Having the 5.25s down there can lead to a stronger phantom centre channel but less stage width. Putting them in the doors could weaken the centre channel and mean a very spacial sound. How you'd get 8s in the kicks without interfering with gas pedal access is beyond me. From my vague memory of the front of an e30, I reckon you can only put 8s in the doors and even then you'd have to be very careful of window opening and intrusion into leg space. Sounds like you've got enough then. One thing to consider is it's much harder to get a 3way front stage right than a 2way. I once tried a 5way front stage, never again, it's 2way for me from now on. Aren't they? Obviously you'd have to be clearly insane to have 6x9s in the front. Hehehehe

The problem I see is regardless of whether you put 8s or 6.5s in the front, they're going to be constrained by their enclosure. From memory the e30 factory mounts are horriffic to work with. I think you'd struggle to get an 8" in the kicks. You also wouldn't want to put the 8s in the kicks and the 5.25 in the doors, why have the higher frequency speakers closer to you. If you must do 8s + 5.25s then put the 8s in the doors and the 5.25 in the kicks. Also consider you're going to need more amps (presume active xover) and crossovers.