e30ftw

Gojira

Won't have an LSD then.. And you don't wanna post that vid here either.. Anyway you have PM.

I used to have the bolts coming loose problem too, Tightening them and replacing the CSB does work for it.. It's all i did and I never had the issue again (Got new locknuts actually) If the rear joint is real bad it will clunk and bang alot. But yeah you may aswell replace the rear half which is simple and replace all the driveshaft rubber. Get some new bolts with lock nuts too and use some blue loctite on them.

I did and my old man did this morning. Seems to be fine now though ?

I've done it all, Except I've never replaced a fuel pump. Everything else you could think of, I have removed/replaced. Cool photo anyways lol. Should probably do your timing belt and tensioner while your there?

Kerry knows more than i do, I don't know how the e34 motor arm mounts fit to the block but not the same as the e30 arms anyway.. thats why I said to fit it, it would need e34 arms and 5 series sump. e30 sump and e30 arms won't work (which it has now). If it won't fit e34 arms then you can't.. Sorry bout that, didn't know about earlier blocks being abit different.

Keen for info on the e36 window switch swap. What sort of wiring involved? Do the switches fit right into the center console?

Crazy. Doesn't even look like it's been touched.

Stuffed u-joints will prematurely destroy center hanger bearings.

2nd/ 3rd ? hanger bearing in 3 or so months. iirc.

Buy a full driveshaft IMO.. Mixing halves isn't too great of an idea.

What if you want a coupe with a shizer load of boot space?

You gotta do the research.. http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/arch...hp/t-29622.html Some good pictures in that thread of a 1jz e34. Looks like abit of work though, Mods to sump etc.

Yeah, For common conversions.. For an e34, probably only a few people have bothered to do it and there isn't much need to mass produce them as everyone isn't going to be doing it if you get what we mean. Have to be custom made.. And I guess you may even need the motor and box you would be using before hand to deal with positioning etc before the mounts can be made (I don't actually know this but I geuss that is what would be required).

Second you go into conversion mode, Have your wallet handy.. Make sure it goes deep too.

Yup, You can use the arms and sump of your current motor.

Yeah if it's from an e30 you'd need to use the e34 engine arms, e34 sump. Other than that you just need all the electrics etc from the m20b25 like loom and ECU and it's straight bolt in..

Yeah, Something like 9 of them ever made?

Ah, Got the receipt somewhere.. It was about $400 ? + the cost of 12 valve guides. That included crack and pressure test, install 12 new valve guides, new valve seats, grind the rockers, good cam put in (they gave me one), new valve stem seals, head skimmed etc.. Had to get the head skimmed and pressure tested again though (Blew a headgasket), that was what the $100+gst was for.

Got mine done at a local machine shop, Just $100 + GST. But that was after I took it back after having it rebuilt so I think they chopped the price down abit.. But I guess ball park figure for you.

Repco headgaskets are shocking. Ring's only on one side of it, that surround the cylinder. Not even joined only on one side. Oil passage holes didn't even line up right. Wouldn't take much to blow such a Sh*t headgasket. The ones from Gavin are Victor Reinz. Those are the biz.

Looks like every other new car now same basic shape, with the bmw grills etc. No deal

Coupe or 4 door ?

I was actually going to say that, But thought people would think I was being sarcastic lol

What colour is that Em?