Etwenty1

Hi looking for a set of 4 wheels that will fit an e70 parts car to make it rollable onto a transporter do not need to be road legal. Centre bore required is 74mm, will consider a tidy set that I can re-sell after use (Chch to Tauranga)

My trusty E53 diesel has developed an irregular idle and the odd stall with injector error. Will restart and run fine immediately afterward. On a trip from bop to wairarapa it did this 3 times each time after a stop, open road seems ok. I have inpa but it’s the German version so difficult to translate errors. I am planning to change fuel filter but on vid the fuel pressure spikes up not down so thinking maybe an injector(s)? Any ideas please. IMG_1751.MOV

Got a problem with the horn on my 2001 530i, project car so not sure it’s has worked since I’ve owned it, but now it’s wof time, pulled steering wheel to check wiring and I had a spare so swapped wheel and clock spring, no change, swapped one of the horns over with a known working one, checked fuse #3 - noted the contacts had slight rust, The car did have a cracked screen and a water leak behind dash so now thinking I may have a corroded wiring issue… any other suggestions? Cheers

Try Stealth logistics but price from main freight seems about right.

Done the same, new rotors tried to get away with existing shoes, adjusted numerous times, needed new shoes to resolve.

Headlight question- I have a 2001 530i I am reassembling and have bought a couple of sets of headlights 2nd hand, low beam high beam and indicators all plug in but for the angel eyes (assuming) the loom has 4 wire 4 pin plugs, small problem is both sets of headlights have 2 blade sockets. Do I just need the 4 pin bulb holders to make them work?

Location? assume 03 = S.I?

Thanks, ill check that.

Thanks, I've gone down the EWS delete route with a new DME.

Thanks for that, its hard to see how moisture has gotten into the sealed compartment, but i bought the car with a badly cracked windscreen on that corner, that may have contributed.

Well I found my issue, corroded dme pins included one missing.

New sensor in and no change. Have tried cranking with a good fuel pump outside the tank and it’s still not activating. I have disconnected the battery a few times and even being careful it crackles a bit when I connect the neg terminal. Maybe I have damaged the dme? Weird how it was running then just stopped.

I’ve had a 530i sitting around for a while and after selling another project I started tidying it up, it had previously run ok I had bought it minus the abs unit and the msport bits. anyway after sorting the brakes out I gave it a road test and it went well but has a brief loss power at higher revs. Next day it would start but stall showing a cam sensor code. This was intermittent cos sometimes it would start and run fine. While waiting for a new sensor to arrive I started it a few more times and got trans and engine fail safe messages, rough idle and cam sensor code. The fuel and battery were a little low so charged that up added fuel and it started and ran for a couple of seconds then cut out and wouldn’t restart. I now have a long list of error codes on my cheap scanner and it’s a long tow to a proper one. Any ideas? It cranks strongly but no fuel, I opened the shraeder valve and nothing. I’ve got 12v at the green fuel pump relay under the dash next to the ews unit but can’t get the pump to run. I’ve tested the pump with 12v and it’s good. I’ve tried jumping this relay on pins 30 and 87 is that correct? Maybe the wiring between the relay and the pump? The fuel pump fuse is good, the fuses under the carpet look ok though there was a couple of mm of water underneath. would a dead crank sensor cause this Like on e36’s?

Hi, I’m looking to buy a used aux fan for my e53 diesel and am trying to find a simple way to test it prior to buying, fan is in CHCH and I’m in bay of plenty. looks like you need a signal generator or another X5 to plug it into. Would a good auto sparky be able to test it? Cheers

Hi has anyone pulled the Alternator on a 2004 3.0D ? Ive got it disconnected but now looks like radiator will need to come out. Either that or PS pump. Ive searched around but cant seem to find an answer. Cheers.

Swapped solenoid for another, no change. Swapped whole intake from airbox to throttle plate of another running car and no change. I've got a vanos repair kit coming so will have a chance to check timing. It start and runs ok for about 10 seconds then turns to sh*t which made me think fuel but its got new filter, good pressure to the rail. Has horrible rattle from bottom end that comes on.

Hi so I've been working away on a 1997 525i I picked up for next to nothing, seemed too clean to part out. Would start and run but would not Rev over 2k and sounded like it was pinking a bit. Over a few weeks I checked fuel pressure, did a compression test and scanned it with my budget scanner. Faults were camshaft position sensor and "ecu failed self test". I've changed the cam and crank sensors with no change. I had a spare ecu reprogrammed for 525 and swapped that in. No ecu fault now but no change. Replaced cam position sensor again and no change. Read Data stream and says cam position is 59 degrees. I compared that to my running 528i which is -2.88 degrees ! What do you reckon is up here? Vanos failure? Has someone messed around with cam timing? Prev owner said it started running rough one day after a re-fuel.

SOLD?

I have a square set of style 32s off an e39 , 17x8 . Will be et20, Is that what you meant by low offset?

All good, I replaced one side but no signs of a leak so who knows might have been a valve sticking open. Rebuilt the starter and now chasing creaky suspension so it just goes on. Trying to sell it but who wants a V8 with 280ks on it when gas is $2.30...did you sell your wagon?

I have the tools. Pm me if you want to discuss hire.

Cheers guys, So after bleeding the system over the weekend it's holding at 108 on the open Rd, rising to 110 in traffic. I still get no low speed action from the aux fan over 91 deg unless AC is running.

After some advice on correct temps and aux fan operation please, I recently got my 1999 540i back together after after new hg and heat exchanger, replaced wp, thermostat, flush, new BMW coolant, new temp sensors in bottom hose and in thermostat, have got the temp showing on the obc. I thought the aux fan was supposed to come on at low speed at 91deg then full speed at around 112, or be on if AC is on is that correct? Mine doesn't start until 108 but does come on if AC is on. Is this normal or do I have a fault? Normal running temp is around 108 right?

100kg "Lardy"? Steady on

Thanks guys, I know you can't reuse normal head gaskets and stretch bolts. Thought this may be different.