Etwenty1

My sisters E39 540i was dropping a small amount of coolant then oil appeared in the coolant, but no coolant in the oil. I did a compression test and cylinder #7 was low. The rest were all ok and even. After mulling over parting or fixing I decided to pull that head. No I did not do a leak down test. Noticed that head bolts were fairly easy to undo, and that 3 of the ex manifold bolts were only finger tight. Looks like a steel gasket (same on other side) which when removed has left traces of a black film on both surfaces. There's no obvious breach or crack so I plan to take both the head and the gasket to a machine shop for checking. Are these gaskets common/any good? Can they be re-used? To fix depending on how the head checks out I presume I will need another gasket the same thickness or adjusted for any skimming? Any advice/comments appreciated. Pic 1 shows gasket sitting on upturned head.

A known good one please will need freight to bay of plenty.

You will need to swap the pins over to the tumbler that matches the new handle assembly. On mine the old lock barrel had grooves from worn pins or worn key meaning the tumbler wouldn't turn in the new barrel. Solution was bench grinder until all pins were "flush"

Did you disconnect the cable or just cut out section of sheath? Ps I have a cheap reset tool you could use but am in TAURANGA

Dude gets a mint e30 company car in episode 2 of "white gold" on netflix. funny bit on "dogging"

Re- assembling an m42 and I would be grateful if anyone has diagram showing where connections from the squid go, my labels have all faded . Have been googling with no joy.

Hi, Yes it looks like an M42 but its the later model M44. You'll have to goggle the exact differences but I understand it has a simplified cylinder head, a MAF instead of an AFM and two sensors are different. Not sure about EWS, I was going to swap it into a M42 car but decided to repair instead.

I bought this for a project but now surplus, was seen running before removal, smooth and quite runner, no over heating. This is the one with forged internals. Comes complete with loom and all ancillaries. Can come with Auto trans if wanted. Will ship at buyers expense. $500 ono sample pic

Thanks Ben but this is my for sale listing. Perhaps you could start your own thread or PM Elijah directly? http://www.scrappycrow.com/e28wheelstires/e28wheelstires.html

Looking for a good crack free head please. Closer to Tauranga the better.

E30s have unloader relays that can fail, from memory the K7 or K9 relay(s). They control a group of fuses and put the circuits to sleep after a short period or when not in use. Do the same test with your meter but pull those relays instead of the fuses.

I bought these a while back had them professionally straightened and semi polished. Looking for offers around $1k. They look great on E28's Rims are in Tauranga area but happy to freight at buyers cost.

Bugatti (by BBS) 17x8, ET10

Mine is for sale, new bilsteins all round shock mounts etc. Sport seats, looking to part it out or sell complete. Trademe #1273476302

Changed thermostat and consumption on open road has dropped from 8.1L/100km to 7.7L Trans issue has been solved by Sherson in Tauranga. Turned out to be low on fluid. Feeling a but gutted that i didn't check this myself but there is no obvious leak and no flat surfaces at my current home. Could have been under-filled at last service i guess? Great to get a simple fix for once. Now onto the radius arm bushes, headlight not going, spot lights broken, A/C not working.....

Thanks Ron, Does an overheat log a code?

Yes i could have them tested, pelican parts sells them as a kit. I waiting for a work trip to Auckland so i can take it to a trans expert.

No progress, no better. have been looking at other issues. Pull out of work across main road every day into a gap, wagon shifts from 1st into 2nd and it loads up - i lurch forward in the seat. Almost like its not expecting 2nd and something is not releasing....not sure how else to describe it. Slightly better when warm. Another question on this diesel is how long should it take to warm up? This one takes a good 15 mins to get to 12 o clock on the gauge and on a long downhill run - say half way down the kaimais the temp drops down to 1/4. Then goes back up on the flat.

Yeah the trans was also my worry with any X5 over over 150kms so when i saw this one with 75km on a full trans rebuild I figured it was a safer bet than one with 150km.

Cheers Allan and Peter, Ill be taking it to a BMW Indy this week. Frustrating that its a rebuilt trans, with new Mechatronic unit, new dif etc. I was hoping the scan might reveal something.

I recently bought a 2004 X5 3.0i Diesel with the 6 speed auto. It has 265k on the clock but came with a FHS. At 85k kms it has a service to fix defects 87-99-13-00-12, 87-00-02-00-01, 87-34-00-00-01. At 98k kms the transfer box actuator was replaced, same date "checking function of transfer box WT= Drive vehicle found to cut power on takeoff and rear wheels lock found front shaft very difficult to turn, found hole in front diff casing. RMFD DIFF installed for $3600 At 100k kms the trans was serviced and the trans prog updated and hills prog activated to improve shift patterns $1000 At 185k the Trans was rebuilt under warranty, the Mechatronics unit was replaced for $4k on same date. It passed a new WOF and A PPI from a BWM indie with no issue. And obviously the old owner mentioned no trans issue. From the day it arrived it has not changed gear properly. From rest the car labours into 2nd gear meaning the engine makes more noise and seems to strain against the transmission. once I get into say 4th gear upwards it shifts fine. Worse when cold but sometimes it will shift perfectly maybe one in 10 times, from 1st upwards. I knew the car has a possible battery issue so I swapped the battery for a known good one and took it to a local trans guy I have used before. He scanned it and reset the adaptations and suggested a fluid change might help. I did not get a print out of the errors but there were a couple relating to low voltage. It maybe drove slightly better after this reset for a few days ? So good advice I took it into the BMW dealer and had it scanned again as per the pic. It does drive really well once rolling say above 60km, but it is slow speed stop start where is playing up, including the odd slam into 2nd. The fluid in the trans has been changed every 100k or so and is due in 15k. Am considering either driving to Auckland to find a trans place that knows these units well or a diy fluid and filter change. Also, when driving down long hills it downshifts on brake until its reving at around 4k which feels too high. At that point I slip it into manual mode and change up a gear which then holds. 20160912083207263.pdf

Sold?

Hi guys i picked up a wee project with a blown hg so looking for a good condition m42/44 to suit a 95 ti. ( Assuming 42/44 is interchangeable ) pref Waikato bop area. Plan to do a quickswap with a good runner then fix up the other one for use in an e30.

Dibs headlights, I'll pm you