sweetm3

Stunning

Returned car to my DD after the trip to Taupo, changed brake pads, changed boot lid. Checked rotors even though they looked fine with some thermal cracking of course no nail catchers Then put the calipers on them, bugger close to the min thickness so did the change

You have 3 options 1/ replace % 75 of the O rings and filter (vanos not removed) : can be done "easy diy" 2/ replace all the O rings and filter : requires vanos removed from motor and work on the timing " medium " 3/ replace all O rings/ filter and rattle kit : vanos , cam gears etc removed from motor " hard" Both Dave's and my experiences are covered in threads Remembering that this work isn't common for workshops, BMW just replace a vanos if there's a problem. Any shop doing this work would have to be willing to reference the online diy's and be methodical in their approach.

I did mate and that's why I included both a photo of the can and the text. The product I used is called WuRTH brake cleaner, use it on my painted calipers no problem, if I'm cleaning parts like a pulled apart vanos then I'll sometime use the cheap stuff. Brought a box of brake clean from a guy on here I think a few years back they worked well as a paint stripper

Updated

"tried to dumb that down as a response.. hopefully explains it a little." Gezz mate, that covers about all I know ....... thats right I'm a dumb ass

Hi Guys After some race tape for, covering off brake air ducts etc. Type that can handle track speeds and come off without damaging paint work Cheers Mark

Windscreen cowling and hardware replaced. Valve and spark plug gaskets and bolt rubber spacers

Hi all Found a leak, ordered from JC today but won't be available till Monday. S50B32 Valve cover gasket + Spark plug gaskets required If anyone has a OEM set in Auckland that they won't be installing this weekend, you can save me from driving the wifes Hyundai all weekend that would be great. Cash or swap Cheers Mark

mmmm I'm interest then why this knuckle rubbed ?

I had the same issue on my 3.2, when I fitted my USA BBK. I contact the supplier and they sent out different hats. I just put it down to Euro M3 v USA M3 suspension geometry

Very Nice

Economics 101 Small population, captive market We can screw them

Here's another option http://www.racingbrake.com/ I use their kit on my e36 m3, front and rear with hawk 60 and 70 pads These run very cool because of the design I have had to block off the cooling ducts to get them upto temperature. Playdays 5 laps a session, Hampton downs lap times 1.18, car approx weight 1400kg Great customer service as well, pm if you want to discuss further

OK guys 14 X M5 3 X M6 plus washers, there is a shortage of the M5's with a 10-12 wk delivery time

OK just realized I haven't thrown out my old ones. My digital vernier caliper is broken so tomorrow I'll take a drive up to the Bolt Shop and get the sizes and thread type then post.

Josh/Everyone If your solenoids aren't glued in like Dave's, change to high tensile exhaust/inlet solenoid covers bolts, for less than $10.00 that's what I paid at the Bolt Shop Archers Rd and a 10min job. Read my thread if I had been on the track or Motorway when mine sheared it would/could have cost me my engine ps Dave I think you should still do yours

Sorry mate only have the vanos unit, no splines.

Dave My understanding from Gavin's explanation was that If the teeth weren't in the right place your timing would be out as you wouldn't be able to line up the cam marks with the markers on the block at TDC On my first attempt mine were only just out, so not enough to do any damage, but the car idled as though it had wild cams compared to how she is idling now. On my second attempt I only removed the inlet spline and then put it back in clock wise one tooth. Let say TDC is at 6.O'clock when set, my markings were at 8.O'clock and that last bit of turn to get to 6 O'clock sucked the spline back in. Mate I hope this make sense. I've also heard it's sometime better to be luckly than good which may explain my success

Ok, update not DIY. The Beisan systems Euro S50 Double Vanos Seals Repair Kit has a great how to write-up that you download 124 pages (more if you do the rattle kit). So I took my vanos off found that the leak was between the block and vanos, not the exhaust solenoid seat as I first thought. I had a bit of trouble getting the timing right, when putting everything back together, I actually got it wrong...... not enough to do any damage as I did a what I'll call a "soft start" prior to installing the spark plugs. Placing the car in 6th and rolling it round to check nothing was binding up. Started fine but was running a bit rough, so I took it over to Gavin as always Gavin was great showed me what could happen to a engine if you got it wrong. He gave me some advise, had a chat with Dave as well (M3AN). Spent the next day redoing the timing properly that was a couple of weeks ago now No leaks and the car is purring now. Today I installed another Beisan Repair Kit in my now spare vanos this is the one I brought from the USA. By the way the guy I brought it off found and sent me another piston. So now my spare parts department has Brakes, suspension, sway bars, air box, exhaust sections 2 & 3 and a vanos (watch out Ray) Just some points I learnt The splines from the cams come out . They do have to be set/seated on the right teeth to get the cams timing right, but you don't have to match them to the photos (depth wise) in the instruction when do the timing. So only 3 things to check not 5. I did have trouble with both units installing the pistons top Teflon seals, cutting them in half but I was saved the first time by "Advanced Seal" in Rosedale thanks Luke. And I had Beisan send a spare with the second kit. And Happy New Year everyone

Vanos done, put back together, will do some k's this weekend before I say it was a success. Write-up to follow

The vanos solenoid O-rings also fail and in some cases and cause external oil leak. These O-rings are made from Buna and harden and flatten. Replacing the O-rings with Viton O-rings has proven to not work. The Viton O-rings shred from the high oil pressure. BMW has redesigned the solenoid O-rings for the S62 engine (E39 M5) vanos unit. The S62 vanos solenoids are the same as the Euro S50 vanos solenoids and share the same O-rings. The new S62 solenoid O-rings are not only made from Viton but also have multiple facets. These facets function to divert oil flow away from the O-ring and keep it from shredding. The new S62 vanos solenoid O-rings are the correct design and can be used for this vanos solenoid O-rings. These are purchased directly from BMW and are not provided in the Beisan seals kit. Taken from Beisansystems.com site There is more to this write up, hence my procrastinating over buying the other kits Brought the Beisansystems Euro S50 Double Vanos Seals Repair Kit, chicken out of the rattle kit after reading the Procedure

Well the new/old vanos arrived ..................... Forget the new, it was a big disappointment looks like it been thrown off the shelve a few too many times. : It looks like a hammer was used on the exhaust inboard side leaving a big flat spot on the top edge, multiple scratches and marks : There was a missing bolt from the intake cylinder cover : The exhaust piston head was broken, it had been removed and inserted into the inboard side of the vanos oil pump And of course you cannot buy this piston, you have to buy a whole new vanos unit. So on the bright side I'm hoping that I'll be able to use the body of the old/"new" unit with my internals. The question now is do I buy the rattle kit and the kit with the teflon seals. ?