sweetm3

I like Racing Rays instruction as well, I'll have to get him in the car next time I 'm at an event where he's available

Pictures of what some people have done to their BMW I just laughed

+1

I found this link when doing a quick google on 3pedals post touchs on pressure waves

Hi guys Attached is a sketch of my 97 3.2 M3 exhaust with some diameter measurements.

Brugar will do it, they did mine in Nov for $103.00 incl GST

Update Finally got back to Hampton Downs on Monday, new Hawk DTC 70 up front, I sealed off the driver’s side(Ha Ha) brake duct. New lap time of 1.20.65 Removed and measured the pads today, this time there was less than a millimetre of wear off each pad(both sides). Nicer wear pattern on the rotors as well. So the pads were not reaching operating temperatures on the driver’s side, so problem solved.

I dailed out a lot of understeer on my car by going square up front (adding spacers) when I was running 8.5in rear and 7.5in fronts. I changed to 8in rims all round for street use because of my brake upgrade but I stayed with 225/45R17s up front after the damage I did when I used my race rims and tyres for a week while my extra set of rims were being painted. Jo just add 10mm spacers up front and stay with your 225/45R17s on 7.5in rims

I run R888 235/45R17 on my BBS 17X8 ET38 track rims with 10mm spacers, great setup for the track fine for the trip to and from the track. If you don’t need the spacers then they should work on the road. But if you need to run spacers and you hit a bump/vehicle crossing the wrong way then you’ll be in for some front fender panel beating. It happened to me for peace of mind I would go with Brent’s suggestions.

Merry Christmas everyone

Ethan, I’m looking at exhaust options at the moment for my 97 M3. So I would be very interested in a write up and photos of what your done. Would you have before and after dyno results Cheers

Some of you know me and I'm an old fart and the only sideway action I've had was in my younger days in a Ford 10 Perfect and it didnt end well. In the group on the day I attended there was a rally car driver a couple of race cars and a mixture of young and old. I went hoping to learn something from getting my M3 sideways just in case it happened either on the road or at a track day. No one held a drift for any amount of time, it may have been we were all useless drivers or the pad is just to new I'm hoping the latter. Thats the thing guys, it was that slippery the only way to control your car was to drive conservatively, I didnt and that's why I didnt post any times and dont change your street tyres to slicks for the session either. You will have "hella fun"

Figure 8 and a square, by the way did I say it was slippery

Went down last Thursday, 1hr with it dry and 1hr with it wet. Had about 8 turns. They setup a course around some cones and timed you, none of my times were worth taking. Man it was slippery even when dry, everyone had a great time. Well worth $40

Hi all, broke my single piston aluminmum racing jack, so I'm looking to buy a low profile trolley jack with a min height less than 100mm, like a Powerbuilt 3 Ton Low Profile, if it's aluminum then I'll want it to be twin pistons. So if you have a spare one you want to sell or have a contact that can get one at a good price drop me a line. Cheers

The only "hump" I can think of would be the crest of the hill, which is about 60m or so before the pit entrance. I always give my head liner a little bump with my helmet going over it and I'm not doing 190kph. On my first visit to HD it was damp in the morning and after the first session myself and others were chatting in the pits and a couple of drivers had made steering adjustments at that crest and nearly came to grief. My condolences to all involved

Thanks for the reply Incary, Read your post #4 at 5.30 am long night and got it wrong. As for post # 6 all help is appreciated Cheers

PM sent

Sorry I always describe left and right on my car from the prospective of looking forward from the drivers seat.

Ah yes the arrows, now thats another story and CU by racingbrakes USA. But the calipers and rotors are mounted right way round.

Questions that have arisen What could be the cause of the uneven pad wear? Calipers not balanced, Left side brake cooling duct not connected, right side connected so may be pads not reaching the correct operating temperature? What could be the cause of the wear ring on the rotors near the bottom of the slots? my setup for the track BMW E36 M3 1997 3.2 Front RB 400 Calipers 4 pot, RB 2 piece rotors 328 X 28, RB Et 900 pads Rear Standard calipers (brass guides), RB 2piece rotors 312 X 20, Hawk DTC-60 pads Race brake fluid Bedding in of the brakes pads and rotors were completed as per instructions. On the day at Hampton Downs, 4 groups, 15 minute sessions so approx 45min between sessions. Ambient temps between 18-20 OK I was taking temperature readings on my rotors after the cool down lap, the front were reading 210F and the rears were 420F, drivers side only. But still knocked 3.7 seconds off my previous fastest lap time now down to 1.21.1 As you can see I was pushing it and the brakes worked a treat, no fade, pulling up nice and straight and balanced. Time to change back to my street pads, so what did I find, I have included some photos of my rotors and pads. measurements of brake pad wear (looking from the rear) Front, RB Et 900 pads new 17.6mm left side 14.5mm (1 pad separating hard to see in photo) right side 12.8mm (1 pad separating see photo) Rear , Hawk DTC-60 pads new 15.92mm left side 15.4mm/ right side 15.3mm Rotors Thickness Wear: measured not worth mentioning Surface/Face condition: Fronts not as smooth as glass anymore, both fronts do have a strange wear ring at the bottom of the slots (low spot) Rears: not as smooth as glass anymore but even wear characteristic. I havent done that many km's on my street pads but they seem to be wearing fairly evenly thanks for having a look

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