nath

Looking at advertisement criticism objectively; people can say what they like, it's up to the buyer to take it seriously or not. We mustn't lose sleep over the fact that people arent perfect and concentrate their interests elsewhere of cars specification.

I bought this for my car thinking that I would keep it, I am not. Fitting a new chain to my last M10 made it as quiet as a mouse with only injector noise. Forget what people say about how they are just noisy engines. Takes about half an hour to wind on and wind the old one off. paid $170 yours for $100

A good start would be taking the whole intake assembly from the throttle body back apart, purchase the appropriate crc/ carb cleaners/ contact cleaners and deal to each component and also test them for correct resistances and voltages etc. Further than that would be willy nilly replacement of parts such as ECU. This is assuming that there isnt a gaping whole in the replaced gasket.

Firstly, is the idly control valve buzzing when the car is turned on? It should. Also it will need to be clean and free of crap that may jam it. The thermo time switch or coolant temp sensor (cant remember what it is called on motronic) needs to run open circuit when cold, and increasing resistance to closed when hot. The original sensors were blue top, I think they are black now. The ECU can blow one of the circuits also which controls the ICV operation. Both the sensor and the ECU went on an m20 I had once at the same time, causing a lot of confusion as no one test for failure worked.

Bump for post cleanup, Apologies for playing around with the price so much, different factors such as new parts come into it but this is the price now. $2000

Removed faulty heater valve, drilled out rivets, took valve apart, cleaned it all up etc etc(long process) back together refitted and heater now works fine. Didnt do much else special to bleed the coolant but seems fine now. Must have been an air lock or some such from the stuck heater. Car is finally up to scratch. Chris: Yep put that radiator in cheers. Unsure if it has enough flow actually, but all good.

Non- starting 328i with E34 throwing star wheels. $1500 asking price Broken 328i People probably have their sneaky eyes on this already, thought I would point out the bargain to the rest of you.

Hi Guys Now that I've been told there is nothing wrong with my steering and after getting all new tyres, I've moved to the next task. Ive finally gotten around to replacing my radiator, and have a problem. Upon refilling the coolant and taking reasonable steps to help the system bleed itself (running to temp with cap off etc) the heater has decided not to work anymore, and the radiator top tank (no expansion tank on these) started to bulge as the temp needle went past half way on a drive. Symptoms that could mean something to someone: Coolant level is seen to drop as the car is revved, when looking with radiator cap removed. Hose coming from block to heater is warm, return hose is less warm, not cold though. All hoses when squeezed seem to be full of water. -Could the fluid drop indicate lack of NPSH and thus major trapped air that is having a vacuum applied to it as the revs are increased? -Is my heater just stuffed to add insult to injury? (the valve tests 12V on full closed cold, ~0V at heated temperatures) -Air expands at a greater rate than water. This may explain my pressure probmlem, but not the fact that the radiator isnt releasing it. Any help appreciated, I have flushed and changed countless cars' cooling systems before, never had this problem.

I love this (critique). It's a CL63, the rego says so. Pretty sure the Dealer who sold it to it's single owner would have known a thing or two about it's top model Some things in this world are exactly how they seem

Good call, collectable value or much value at all for that matter has largely been lost with the rate that they pump out AMG cars and M cars etc now. the W211 E55/63 must be the most common E class on the roads in auckland

Bushes in and done

Edit: Went in to mechanic today, apparently the steering has next to no play in it. Totally confused, so went and got new front tyres put on and on the short drive home the shakes seem to have almost gone, theres still something there but no longer through the wheel. I'm thinking rear tyre flat spots for that maybe. Also will take the front brakes apart and clean/ lube them up. One caliper feels like it may be a bit seized. Rollercoaster

Cheers guys, very implementable advice. Thinking about the reality of it, (i'm an Engineer not a mechanic!) I guess that if there is play with only one wheel off the ground, then the rods can be expected to be bad . Fingers crossed. nathan

E30 318i 138,000km NZ new 1986 I've just had the control arm bushes replaced as they were shagged, the shimmy is less bad but definitely still there. Jacked the car up tonight and there is a grand old amount of play in each front wheel when manipulating each at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions. The tie rod end at the wheel seems fine, I cannot feel play in it. I can see the rubber rack-end boot moving as I jiggle, so the play is at that end. The power steering rack does not leak at all The steering wheel has no discernible play in it (but clearly it should, so forget I said that) I only jacked one side up at a time, that is how I found the play. Each wheel jiggles independently of the other, does this suggest tie rods? What is the test for bad rack vs bad inner rod ends? The car's handling and steering is remarkably tight for a standard E30. Does anyone have any of what I need? Cheers kids

65's are faster than everything arent they? Dearer than everything also. I like the sound of the Tq figure, I love the styling of that shape coupe, just dont like the engine and electrical complexity for down the track :S

How did it go? I had mine yesterday and I got 300,000 for a question that sam got 900 for. whoops. Balls up of an exam

The LandCruiser 24 valve diesel was wicked. The next V8 had probs but has since been sorted... Unsure about the smaller diesels

They arent too great in photos, but in person when one is parked on the street next to all the other cars; they are low, slender, V8 and quick. Theres a black one that I see around with dark gold BBS LM's and it looks a million bucks.

If you are genuine in your complaint and you don't throw the car around every corner that comes your way or enjoy losing traction then go back to the supplier. If they have a legitimate case to brush you away with, go straight to the manufacturer. They don't lose anything as suppliers always happily take product back so as to not upset the relationship over something of low big picture cost. Consumer guarantees act tells us that something ought to last a good product lifetime. If while proving km's travelled etc the cracks that your tires have can be deemed genuinely unsafe or defective, you have all the case you need surely? Unless there is legislation excluding such things as tyres.

No no, surprisingly Beacham are NZ. Masters at restoration and classic modification

So it was exported, and now it is being imported back? Nice car, great price! We have a daimler 250 Which has the V8 rumble just not the go of a 3.8/ 3.4

I basically threatened him when he bought it off me

I'm not up to speed with suspension part names, Part 5

Hi guys My E30 definitely needs new control arm rear bushes, (is that the correct description?) are the ones that litter trademe better value, or am I up for the same price for whatever other brand bushes that a mechanic will order? This is a fix on a budget, as I'm not interested in pouring money into this car like I did my last E30. After 7 E30s I am getting tired.

People's shipping charges are sometimes unusual.... From my mother's business a package of reasonable size (easily a flaming gasket set) can be sent nationwide for 10 bucks with fastways (I think those are the tickets, we have a few couriers).