Jacko

That cage is a work of art. Good to see 1/8th cleco's being used on something cool (instead of planes!)

^ That is awesome.

Thanks man, do you have a link to any LVVTA doc that applies? Ive hunted but maybe I missed it, found one that is pretty basic and only mentions coilovers once... I assume by load point they refer to the spring perch? I wonder what certification is needed with the crack testing, I have access to free NDT

What coilovers have you played with APT? Im in the market for some soon, hard work sorting out whats good whats bad and whats required for a cert.

LSD for $60.. you jammy bugger Whatya rekon about the HD clutch (stage 2 or whatever its called?) I have one for my swap.

Funny how its one of those love it or hate it cars. I remember reading a driving review of an RS-X in an old magazine, it went something like "It an Angry cat, that sneaks into corners and pounces out, but only if you time the boost lag just right, or you end up in the ditch"

Its 100% an ignition thing man

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-287347105.htm

^ Oath.

Very cool man. A mate of mine has an FJ20ET/Link for sale, it was going to go into his datsun 1600 project. He keeps telling me to ditch the M50 and stick the FJ in for near the same price.. and 400 rwp.... Its hard work saying no. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-319873022.htm

Check for dodgy wiring, loose connectors etc too. Never been convinced about magic sh*t in a bottle either. My e30 did similar stuff, drove me nuts as I couldnt work it out for weeks. Thought my coil was dying. Turns out the previous owner had installed a kill switch and jammed it under the dash, not secured, one of the crimped terminals to it had broken wiring and would kill the ignition randomly (braking/accelerating etc) Id look at your coil too, a mates Mk2 cortina GT had similar issues too your e30, after running out of ideas we changed the coil thinking maybe it was breaking down internally when the engine bay got warm, and it seems to have been the problem.

Telecom Ill test it again on vodafone and see if actually 6x faster like the nice sales man said

Sliding rails and brackets from NZKW on tardme. Theyre OK, the only thing I could find locally. Mounts line up with the E30 fine, but the rails dont fit the mounts/seats amazingly. With a bit of force/a round file to slot holes it lines up, but its not 100%. Seats sit a couple of cm too far towards the centre, its not terrible and you do get used to it, just a little annoying. If I did it again, Id probably get the sliding rails, but fabricate my own mounts to make it all fit a bit better. Even with the sliding rails your ass is a few cm lower to the floor than stock seats, without the rails you might as well be sitting on the carpet! The mounts themselves are a pretty low profile.

Sorry if its a repost, but this thing is crazy fast.

New wheels Looks lower with the wider wheel and right offset filling the gaurds better, feels much more planted and grippy around corners too, wider track and better rubber FTW! Armstrong steering is feeling particularly heavy when parking now. Considering hiring it out as gym equipment

Hmmm... Vodafone "representative" not "salesman" just came around, offering ADSL2+ for $10 cheaper than our current telecom plan with 10GB more and a free ADSL 2+ router. Aparently ADSL2+ went in our street last week. Anyone on vodafone?

200km is barely broken in

Question number 1 - Does engine check light output M50B25 E34 3.1 DME (Pin 8) simply provide a ground to the bulb? My car has no ECL, but id like to install something to read the codes, and to tell me if all is well! Im thinking I could simply install a bulb/LED, wire some juice to one side of it and run an extra wire to the C101/M50 loom Is it that simple, or is there some electrickery in the output from the DME? Question number 2 - Ive read conflicting storys about M50B25 auto DME's in manual cars. Do I need to ground pin 65 on the the DME to tell it its in park/neutral? Or will it start and run fine without it ground? Question number 3 - Am I right in assuming that road speed, RPM, fuel consumption run through the X20 on an M50'd E36/34 to the instrument cluster, but on an E30 run directly from the M20 DME to the instrument cluster? (I recall seeing the wiring for this under my dash, but am not 100%). So in theory I can just run these three wires up to the e30 C101/fusebox from the cluster and splice them into the M50 E34 loom that way? Having some wiring diagrams to look at for a 323 would obviously answer these, but I cant find any Cheers

Any idea what the lumps about? Some sorta harmonic doofa maybe?

HD kevlar clutch - $600 3.64 LSD - $750 Girly halfshafts flapping around all over the tarmac - Priceless

Epic project man, Im loving the flares BTW. Reminds me of a Rally DX corolla, but way more cool

M50B25 = 325i M52B25 = 323i (late model E36's) M54B25 = Z3 2.5 more power and torques. M52B28 = 328i Its BMW trying to "balance" the 3 series range, Early E36 325 makes as much power as later 328, so when the 328 and M52's came out the 325 became the 323 and got a strangled M52B25. Its a 323 and not a 325 because they couldnt have older 325's being quicker than new 325's Aparently its relatively easy to de-strangle a M52B25 323 though, and get more performance out of it. Edit - Didnt make much sense Edit x2 - Still didnt make much sense

Dont get ya M50 rocker cover acid dipped. Turns out theres quite a bit of magnesium in there.... Now a need a new one

Went and picked up E30 bits to throw battery in boot, and a new E36 328i radiator. Picked up some M50 bits from the strippers, dumped them at the powder coaters. Coughed at all the smoke the M20B23 blew out as I accelerated, after engine braking down hill Keep telling myself its just gotta last 2 more months

Kick. Ass.